Hardening Off Vegetable Plants

Image: Downtowngal

Whether you started your own vegetables from seed or bought them from the local nursery, your plants need a little hardening off before being transplanted into the garden. What exactly does hardening off mean and just how easy is it?

What Does Hardening Off Mean?

Hardening off vegetable plants simply prepares them for the outside elements including temperature, wind and rain. Chances are, your plants have been on a sunny windowsill or tucked in a temperature controlled greenhouse. Hardening them off prevents them from going into shock after being transplanted.

How to Harden Off Vegetable Plants

• Find a semi-sunny location out of the wind and rain
• Week 1 - Leave vegetable plants outdoors for 4 hours
• Week 2 - Extend time outdoors to 6-8 hours
• Remember to bring plants indoors at night especially if a frost or low temperatures are forecast 

Hardening off vegetable plants is easy and takes a matter of moving plants in and out of the house. To make things a little easier, place plants on a tray or wheeled cart to make carrying to and fro a simple task. As always, don’t forget to water vegetable plants to keep them growing healthy and strong.

Related Articles

Gibby's Garden Diary Entry #4: Hardening Off My Tomato Plants

How to Grow Cucumbers in the North

Image: Rusty.Grass

Cucumbers are easy to grow in the north and come in a number of varieties suitable for all gardens. Choose a variety according to space and use. Pickling cucumbers are best for making pickles while slicing cukes are great in salads. Grow in containers, along a trellis or in hills on the ground.

Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Cucumis sativus
Family: Cucurbitaceous (gourd)

How to Start Cucumber Seeds in the North

• Cucumbers can be sown directly in the garden in the north because they take 70 days or less to mature. 

When to Plant: After all danger of frost has passed
Soil Type: Fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic
Light: Full sun
Spacing: Sow cucumber seeds 1" deep and 4-5 per hill, with hills 6' apart
Thinning: Thin cucumbers to 2 per hill when seedlings reach 2" tall
Watering: Keep well watered especially during dry periods
Fertilization: Amend soil with finished compost or composted manure to keep fertile
Mulching: Mulch to prevent weeds and retain moisture
Weeding: Weed when plants are dry to reduce the risk of spreading disease
Average Days to Germination: 6-10 days

Common Cucumber Pests and Diseases

Cucumber Pests 

Cucumber Beetles: Small yellow insects with black spots or stripes. Known for chewing holes in the leaves of cucumber plants, often killing them off. Spray with warm soapy water  and handpick to control them organically.

Cucumber Diseases 

Bacteria Wilt: Causes plants to wilt and die off. Pull diseased plants to keep bacteria wilt from spreading. Only pull plants that don’t recover from wilt during cooler temperatures. Some plants may wilt during the heat of the day.

Powdery Mildew: Caused by a fungus and resembles white dust on plant leaves. Small powdery spots can spread. Plant resistant cucumbers & rotate crops to prevent powdery mildew. Spray affected plants with neem oil to control those already affected.

Downy Mildew: Caused by a fungus which appears as small yellow spots on plant leaves, browning and drying them causing them to die off. To prevent, plant disease resistant cucumbers and dispose of parts of the plant already affected.

How to Harvest Cucumbers

• Twist and snap cucumbers from the vine when they reach desired size (size varies per variety)
• Harvest before they turn yellow and plump

Best Varieties of Cucumbers to Grow in the North



Related Articles

How to Grow Cucumbers on a Trellis
Guide to Growing Pickling Cucumbers

How to Identify and Control Garden Pests Organically

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)
How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables

How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables
How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Best Varieties of Cucumber to Grow in the North

Image: Rusty.Grass

There are many types and varieties of cucumbers to choose from, all of which can be grown in the north because most take 55 days or less to mature. This makes choosing a variety based on taste and use easier, whether it's a pickling cuke, one that's great in a salad, or one that contains few seeds and less acid making it easier on the digestive system.

Types of Cucumbers

Slicing: Cucumbers average 7-9" long with relatively thin skins and few spines

Pickling: Cucumbers average 4-5" long and are block-shaped with minimal spines

Seedless and Thin Skinned: Few to no seeds with thin skins

Specialty: Cucumbers that are unique is size, color & shape

Slicing Cucumber Varieties

Slicing Cucumbers

Sweet Yet Hybrid: Early variety produces 10-12" long cucumbers. Burpless, sweet and thin skinned. Dark green in color. 48 days.

Corinto: American variety growing 7-8" long with dark green skins. Does well in hot or cool weather. Small seed cavity. 48 days.

General Lee: American variety growing 8-8.5" long with dark skins and white spines. Averages high yields. 52 days.

Olympian: American variety growing 8-9" long with dark green skins. Crisp with a fresh flavor. Produces high yields. Very disease resistant. 52 days.

Early Spring Burpless Hybrid: Vigorous variety produces 12-15" long cucumbers with dark green skins and bright white flesh. Crisp and mild in taste. 52 days.

Marketmore: American variety growing 8-9" long with dark green skins. Slender in size. Popular in the north. 58 days.

Sweet Slice Hybrid: Burpless variety produces 10-12" cucumbers that are bitter-free and mild in flavor. Tolerates mildew and scab. 63 days.

Straight Eight: Produces 8" cucumbers up to 2.5" wide and dark green in color. Crisp with a small seed cavity. 65 days.

Pickling Cucumber Varieties

Pickling Cucumbers

Harmonie: European variety best when harvested at 3-5". Produces high yields of dark green cucumbers with noticeable taste. 47 days.

Bush Pickle Hybrid: Extra early variety produces 5" cucumbers. Great for small gardens or containers. Mild in flavor. 45 days.

Northern Pickling: American variety best when harvested at 3-5". Produces medium green fruits on compact vines. Great for small gardens and containers. 48 days.

Vertina: European variety best when harvested at 3-5". Produces high yields of dark green cucumbers with black spines. 49 days.

Jackson Classic: American variety best when harvested at 3-5". Blocky in size and dark green in color with white spines. Disease resistant. 49 days.

Salt and Pepper: American variety best when harvested at 3-5". Produces white skinned cucumbers with black spines. Disease resistant. 49 days.

Adam Gherkin: European variety best when harvested at 2-3". Produces high yields of dark green cucumbers with noticeable taste. 50 days.

Excelsior: American variety best when harvested at 4-5". Produces high yields of dark green, blocky cucumbers. Intense flavor. 50 days.

Miss Pickler Hybrid: Early, vigorous  variety. Cucumbers are crisp, blocky and medium-green in color. Retains crispness when pickled. 50 days.

Little Leaf: American variety best when harvested at 3-5". Produces emerald green skinned cucumbers on compact vines. Great for pickling or eating fresh. 57 days.

Eureka Hybrid: Great variety for pickling or slicing. Harvest at 2-4" for pickling and 7" for slicing. Vigorous plants produce deep green skinned cucumbers. 57 days.

Sassy Hybrid: Great variety for pickling or slicing. Harvest at 3-5" for pickling or 6-10" for slicing. Produces crisp and plump cucumbers. 57 days.

Seedless and Thin Skinned Varieties of Cucumbers

Seedless Cucumbers

Rocky: Extra early and seedless variety best when harvested at 3.5". Very tender. High yielding.

Katrina: Seedless variety best when harvested at 5.5-6.5". Medium sized and full of flavor. 49 days.

Socrates: Thin skinned and seedless  variety grows 7-8". Sweet and tender in taste. Dark skinned. 52 days.

Sweet Success Hybrid: Early seedless variety. Crisp, mild in flavor and acid-free cucumbers reach an average of 14". Tolerates scab and mosaic virus. 54 days.

Amiga: Thin skinned variety grows 6" cucumbers. Flavorful and dark green in color. Disease resistant. 55 days.

Tyria: Seedless variety grows up to 14". Dark green cucumbers are slightly ribbed. Resistant to target spot. 56 days.

Diva: Seedless and bitter-free variety. Cucumbers are crisp and sweet to taste. 58 days.

Iznik Hybrid: Gourmet cocktail variety with thin skin and very few seeds. Mimics melon in taste. Vigorous variety great for eating fresh. Pickles well. 60 days.

Specialty Varieties of Cucumbers

Specialty Cucumbers

Tasty Jade: Produces 11-12" cucumbers on high yielding plants. Fresh in flavor and thin skinned. 54 days.

Suyo Long: Chinese variety produces cucumbers up to 15". Very adaptable. Great for pickling. 61 days.

Striped Armenian: Produces flavorful cucumbers that are best when harvested at 8-18". Grows “S” in shape. Flavorful. Skins alternate between dark and light green stripes. 63 days.

Lemon: Produces sweet and flavorful yellow skinned cucumbers resembling lemons. Best when harvested at 1.5-2.5". Good fresh or pickled. 65 days.

Gibby's Garden Diary Entry #4: Hardening Off Tomato Plants

May 22, 2013

Over the weekend, I went to my favorite local garden nursery and snapped up a bunch of tomato plants. Though I won’t be planting them for another week or so, I wanted to make sure I got the varieties I wanted this year. Last year, by the time I got around to buying my tomato plants, they were practically sold out of the varieties I wanted and I didn’t get any sauce tomatoes.

This year I plan on canning my own tomato sauce so I went a little overboard on the tomato plants. For sauce tomatoes I choose “Vita Italia” and “Roma.” I also picked up a couple of “Beefmaster” plants for slicing as well as a couple of cherry tomatoes for snacking.

The tomato plants I bought were still nestled in a nice, warm greenhouse so I need to harden them off a bit before planting them in the ground. I left them outdoors on Sunday for a good 4 hours after bringing them home and continue to do so while bringing them in at night.

I plan on leaving them outdoors during the day for 4 hours at a time for the rest of the week. Come the weekend I’ll start leaving them out for 6-8 hours depending on the weather. I keep them in a semi sunny spot and out of the wind. When I’m ready to plant, my tomatoes will be hardened off and not shocked by the outside temperatures.

The funny thing is, I don’t even like tomatoes unless they come in sauce or ketchup form, but the rest of my family loves them so I always make sure to plant plenty.

View Previous Garden Diary Entry

How to Grow Corn in the North

Image: freedigitalphotos.net

Corn is a staple in the U.S. and around the world. For home gardeners, it can be eaten fresh, frozen or canned for later use. The keys to successfully growing corn in the north are to plant an early variety and wait until the weather is warm to sow it to help stave off certain pests and diseases.

Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Zea mays
Family: Grass

Starting Corn Seeds in the North

When to Plant: After all danger of frost has passed and soil temps are at least 60°F
Soil Type: Fertile, well-draining
Spacing: Sow seeds 1.5" deep and 5" apart in rows 24" apart
Thinning: Thin to 10" apart after seedlings reach 2-3" tall
Light: Full sun
Fertilization: Amend soil with finished compost or composted manure for added nutrients
Watering: Keep well watered especially during dry periods to prevent stunted growth
Mulching: Mulch to prevent weeds and retain moisture
Average Days to Germination: 6-10 days
Additional Care: Plant several short rows rather than 1 or 2 for better pollination. Also, planting corn in cold temperatures can result in poor germination

Common Corn Pests and Diseases

Pests 

Corn Earworms: 1-2” worms are light green to brown in color, hatching from moth eggs. They feed on silk and kernels. Lightly spray tips of ears with organic mineral oil to prevent infestation.

European Corn Borer: Moths lay eggs on undersides of leaves. Hatched larvae borrow into ears and stalks where they feed. If broken tassels & bent stalks appear, spray with organic pesticide, closely following directions.

Corn Root Aphids: Tiny and light green in color. Aphids feed on plant roots often resulting in stunted growth and yellowing of stalks. Prevent by clearing the garden of all ant nests to stop aphids from over wintering in them.

Wireworms: .5 - 1.5” inches long and yellowish-brown larvae. Wireworms feed on the plant roots causing damage. To prevent these pests, cultivate the soil throughout the growing season and rotate crops each year.

Seed Corn Maggots: .5” long cream-colored larvae bore into sprouted seeds stopping their growth. Prevent by planting corn in warmer weather.

* Of course some animals such as raccoon and deer are attracted to corn as well. There are many deterrents on the market to stave off 4-legged pests. Try hanging mesh bags filled with human or dog hair to scare away these pests as a cheap alternative to store bought deterrents.

Diseases 

Stewart’s Bacteria Wilt: Causes early development of tassels, reduced pollination and stunted or wilted plants. Prevent by planting disease resistant varieties of corn, rotating crops and clearing the garden of all plant debris in fall.

Root Rot: Corn plants are stunted or severely misshapen. Commonly causes roots to rot. Caused by fungi. Prevent by planting corn in well-drained soil and in warm weather.

Northern Corn Leaf Blight: Caused by a fungus. Long, gray, green or tan spots appear on leaves of plants. Spots can spread. Loss of corn may result in humid areas from leaf blight. Prevent by planting resistant varieties and rotating crops.

Pest and disease source: garden.org

How to Harvest Corn

• Twist and pull ears of corn from stalks when kernels have filled out 
• Test the kernels by piercing with a thumb nail. Corn should be harvested when a milky-white substance is produced

Types of Corn

When leafing through the seed catalog, you’ll come across abbreviations in the corn descriptions. I have listed each abbreviation, what it stands for and what it means. Abbreviations are included  in each description of corn I have listed as well.

(se) - Sugary-Enhanced Hybrids: Contains high levels of sugar between 14-35% depending on the variety. Known for its creamy texture, taste and tenderness.

(su) - Normal or High Sugar Hybrids: Contains 9-16% sugar depending on the variety. Known for its full flavor and firm, creamy texture.

(sh2) Super Sweet Hybrids: Contains very high sugar levels between 28-44% depending on the variety. Known for its super-sweet flavor and crisp texture.

Synergistic: A cross between (se) and (sh2) varieties containing 75% (se) kernels and 25% (sh2) kernels. Known for its tenderness and sweet flavor.

• Varieties of corn come in 3 colors: yellow, white and bicolor. To simplify this post, I have listed varieties by color. 

Varieties of Corn

Yellow Varieties of Corn

Early Sunglow Hybrid (se): Early variety. Ears grow 6-7” with meaty kernels on short stalks. 62 days.

Legend Hybrid (se): Early variety. Ears grow 7-9” with plump, creamy-sweet kernels. Disease resistant and cold hardy making it a great choice for the north. 65 days.

Spring Treat (se): Yellow sweet variety. Easy harvesting. 66 days.

Precocious Hybrid (se): Early variety. Grows full-tipped ears on 5’ stalks. Sweet to taste. Adapts well. 66 days.

Northern Xtra-Sweet (sh2): Early, tender variety. A northern favorite because it germinates well in cold soils. Large ears are sweet in flavor. Comes in yellow, white and bicolor varieties. 67 days.

Sugar Buns (se): Kernels are deep and narrow. Variety holds up well in the garden. 70 days.

Bicolor Varieties of Corn

Native Gem Hybrid (se): Early variety. Ears grow an average of 8” with full rows of kernels. Very sweet. 66 days.

Trinity (se): Very sweet variety with crisp, fine kernels and narrow ears. Does well when planted in cool weather making it great for the north. 68 days.

Quickie (se): Tender, sweet variety. Ears average 7". Does well in cold soil making it great for the north. 68 days.

Pay Dirt (synergistic): Very sweet variety with tender kernels. Ears grow 7.5-8" long. Tolerates rust. 69 days.

Related Articles

How to Identify and Control Garden Pests Organically

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)

How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables
How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Best Varieties of Sweet Corn to Grow in the North

Image: Jonathunder

Corn is a staple in many northern gardens across the U.S. Not only is it versatile, it comes in many different varieties ranging from super sweet to the kind that you pop. For gardeners in the north, the best varieties of corn to grow take 70 days or less to mature.

Types of Corn

When leafing through the seed catalog, you’ll come across abbreviations in the corn descriptions. I have listed each abbreviation, what it stands for and what it means. Abbreviations are included  in each description of corn I have listed as well.

(se) - Sugary-Enhanced Hybrids: Contains high levels of sugar between 14-35% depending on the variety. Known for its creamy texture, taste and tenderness.

(su) - Normal or High Sugar Hybrids: Contains 9-16% sugar depending on the variety. Known for its full flavor and firm, creamy texture.

(sh2) Super Sweet Hybrids: Contains very high sugar levels between 28-44% depending on the variety. Known for its super-sweet flavor and crisp texture.

Synergistic: A cross between (se) and (sh2) varieties containing 75% (se) kernels and 25% (sh2) kernels. Known for its tenderness and sweet flavor.

• Varieties of corn come in 3 colors: yellow, white and bicolor. To simplify this post, I have listed varieties by color. 

Varieties of Corn

Yellow Varieties of Corn

Early Sunglow Hybrid (se): Early variety. Ears grow 6-7” with meaty kernels on short stalks. 62 days.

Legend Hybrid (se): Early variety. Ears grow 7-9” with plump, creamy-sweet kernels. Disease resistant and cold hardy making it a great choice for the north. 65 days.

Spring Treat (se): Yellow sweet variety. Easy harvesting. 66 days.

Precocious Hybrid (se): Early variety. Grows full-tipped ears on 5’ stalks. Sweet to taste. Adapts well. 66 days.

Northern Xtra-Sweet (sh2): Early, tender variety. A northern favorite because it germinates well in cold soils. Large ears are sweet in flavor. Comes in yellow, white and bicolor varieties. 67 days.

Sugar Buns (se): Kernels are deep and narrow. Variety holds up well in the garden. 70 days.

Bicolor Varieties of Corn

Native Gem Hybrid (se): Early variety. Ears grow an average of 8” with full rows of kernels. Very sweet. 66 days.

Trinity (se): Very sweet variety with crisp, fine kernels and narrow ears. Does well when planted in cool weather making it great for the north. 68 days.

Quickie (se): Tender, sweet variety. Ears average 7". Does well in cold soil making it great for the north. 68 days.

Pay Dirt (synergistic): Very sweet variety with tender kernels. Ears grow 7.5-8" long. Tolerates rust. 69 days.

Best Varieties of Vegetables to Grow in the North

The north may have a short growing season, but that doesn’t mean gardeners have to skimp on the types and varieties of vegetables they grow. The best vegetables take 70 days or less to mature and some, such as melons and pumpkins, should be started indoors or bought at the local nursery to save on time.

Please remember this list is a work in progress as I work my way through the list of vegetables and it will be updated weekly. Click the links below to find lists of the best varieties of vegetables to grow in the north.

• Artichoke
• Asparagus
• Beans
• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots
• Cauliflower
• Celery
• Chard (Swiss)

Gibby’s Garden Diary Entry #3: Swiss Chard: What is It and Why Grow It?

May 9, 2013

When it comes to my vegetable garden, I like to try something new each season, whether it’s a different variety or new vegetable all together. This year, my newbie of choice is Swiss chard which I’ve never, ever grown before. Why is it my choice?

Swiss chard is a great alternative to spinach, which I never can seem to grow or freeze enough of for the long winter months here in Maine. This goosefoot family vegetable can be continually harvested over a long period of time and is entirely edible.

The leafy greens can be snipped over the season and added to salads, dishes or steamed as a mildly sweet side and the celery-like stalks can be harvested at the end of the growing season as well. Swiss chard comes in a handful of varieties and can be grown as an edible or ornamental.

My Swiss chard variety of choice? “Bright Lights” which will add a splash of color to my garden. Bright Lights grows colorful stalks of pink, red, yellow and orange topped with green leaves which are ready to be harvested in about 55 days.

Information on Growing Swiss Chard in the North

Best Varieties of Swiss Chard to Grow in the North
How to Grow Swiss Chard in the North

View Previous Garden Diary Entry
All Gibby's Garden Diary Posts

How to Grow Swiss Chard in the North

Image: giffconstable/"Bright Lights"

Swiss chard is a great green to grow in the north because it’s a cool season vegetable and takes 60 days or less to grow to maturity. Both its leaves and stalks are edible and are commonly used instead of spinach in many dishes. To be frank, Swiss chard looks great in the garden whether it’s eaten or not.

Vegetable Type: Annual in the north
Name: Beta vulgaris var. cicla
Family: Chenopodiaceae (goosefoot)

Growing Requirements for Swiss Chard in the North

Spacing: Direct sow seeds ½” deep, 2-6” apart in rows 18-24” apart
Thinning: Thin to 6-12” apart when seedlings reach 2-3” in height
Soil Type: Loamy, fertile, well-draining
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Watering: Keep evenly watered
Fertilization: Till lots of compost or composted manure into the soil before planting.  Swiss chard prefers fertile soil rich in organic matter
Weeding: Keep Swiss chard well weeded taking care not to disturb its roots
Mulching: Mulch to prevent weeds and retain moisture

Common Diseases and Pests for Swiss Chard

Leaf Spot: To identify leaf spot, look for tannish-brown spots (color may vary) that will spread over time, often killing off foliage if the infestation is severe. Be proactive by planting leaf spot resistant varieties and rotating the crop. If a severe infestation occurs, fungicidal spray may help.

Downy Mildew: Look for yellow patches on leaves. Mildew is typically caused by too much moisture. Avoid spraying cabbage heads when watering. Plant downy mildew resistant varieties.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

Leaf Miners: Leaf miners leave behind squiggly lines yellow in color. They mostly damage greens. To get rid of these pests organically, treat the greens with neem oil or introduce Diglyphus isaea wasps into the garden. These wasps will happily feed on leaf miners.

How to Harvest Swiss Chard

• Harvest Swiss chard before it gets tough. Remember, the older it gets, the tougher the texture
• Cleanly snip up to 5 leaves from plants at a time leaving the stalk and crown in place to encourage new growth
• Harvest stalks before Swiss chard becomes thick and woody
• Eat fresh or blanch and freeze leaves and stalks like spinach

Helpful Organic Gardening Articles

Best Varieties of Swiss Chard to Grow in the North

How to Identify and Control Garden Pests Organically

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)

How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables
How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Best Varieties of Swiss Chard to Grow in the North

Image: giffconstable/"Bright Lights"

Swiss chard is edible from stalk to stem and can be added to soups, stews and salads or steamed as a mildly-sweet side dish. As vegetables go, Swiss chard is pretty easy to grow and it’s 60 days or less to maturity fits well with the north’s short growing season.

Bright Lights Chard: Variety produces pink, red, yellow and orange stalks topped with green leaves. Easy to grow. Tolerates heat well. 55 days.

Rhubarb Swiss Chard: Produces dark red stalks topped with dark green leaves. Easy to grow. Variety provides a continual harvest. 55 days.

Fordhook Giant Swiss Chard: Produces thick, ivory stalks up to 2.5” topped with broad, dark green leaves. Tolerates light frost. High yielding variety. 55-60 days.

psd/"Fordhook Giant"

Ruby Red Swiss Chard: Produces ruby red stalks topped with shiny, dark green leaves. Consistent yielding variety. 55-60 days.

Magenta Sunset: Produces narrow, pink stems topped with smooth leaves. Mild in flavor. 28 days for baby, 55 days for bunching.

Bright Yellow: Produces bright yellow stems topped shiny, deep green leaves. 30 for baby, 57 days for bunching.

Living in Monrovia/"Bright Yellow"

Lucullus Swiss Chard: Variety produces ivory stalks topped green leaves. Mildly sweet in taste. Bolt resistant. 60 days.

El Dorado: Produces golden stalks topped dark green leaves. Slow to bolt and frost resistant. Vigorous variety great for baby greens. 60 days.

Peppermint: Produces pink stems with white stripes topped with dark green leaves. 33 days for baby, 60 days for bunching.

Loam for Sale in Maine

Located in Lewiston, Maine, Beaulieu Industries has loam for sale for the 2013 season. We offer delivery in and around Androscoggin county or we’ll load you up if you’d rather come pick it up yourself.

Delivery of loam in the Lewiston/Sabattus area is $16 per yard and $18 per yard for the Auburn/Poland area. Pick ups are $12 a yard. For a complete price list of our materials, please click here.

We have loam for sale by the yard or, if you only need a few bucketfuls for your garden, we can supply that too. If you’re not sure how much loam you’ll need for your project, we’ll be happy to help you figure out how many yards you’ll need.

Our loam doesn’t contain any fillers and is screened so it doesn’t contain any rocks or branches. If you have a large project in Central Maine, we offer excavation services, which means we’ll not only deliver the loam, we’ll level it for you too.

Call Roger Beaulieu (240-4499) at Beaulieu Industries to place an order or contact us via email. We’ll set up a delivery/pick up date and time that’s convenient for you.

Gibby's Garden Diary 2013

Here you'll find links to all of Gibby's Garden diary posts. Feel free to click through and leave a comment. Enjoy!

Entry #1 - 4/1/13
Gibby's Garden Diary is Back for 2013!

Entry #2 - 4/22/13
Leaves as Mulch?

Entry #3 - 5/10/13
Swiss Chard: What is It & Why Grow It?

Entry #4 - 5/22/13
Hardening Off Tomato Plants

Entry #5 - 6/3/13

Excessive Rain & Heat

Tips for Amending Garden Soil Organically

Image: OakleyOriginals/Flickr

You don’t have to be a chemist or even a green thumb to amend the soil in your vegetable garden. With a few tips and the right tools, adding organic nutrients is easy. For hardcore gardeners, figuring out what the soil is lacking is the first step (this is done with a home soil test kit). For gardeners like me, who are easy going, adding amendments means tilling in a few inches of compost and calling it a day.

Types of Organic Soil Amendments

Year-Old Manure: Very important that it’s rotted so it doesn’t burn the roots of some plants or cause them to grow enormously but not produce any flowers, fruits or vegetables.

Finished Compost: “Black Gold” Finished compost does not have a rotted odor, rather it should smell like earth. It should be dark in color and be completely broken down with no chunks of decomposing material.

Store-Bought Organic Fertilizer: Really read the label on bags of “organic” fertilizers before buying them. Look for N-P-K ratios that are lower than 8 and stay away from ingredients such as superphosphate, nitrate, urea, phosphoric, ammonium, & muriate. (Garden Smarts)

Tips for Adding Organic Soil Amendments

• When amending the soil using an organic fertilizer, remember that too much isn’t always a good thing 
• ALWAYS follow the directions on bags of store bought fertilizers
• If you can, add organic amendments in fall so they have time to absorb into the soil
• Only use year-old or fully rotted manure to avoid burning, stunning or stunting vegetables
• Follow my guide for How Much Compost to Add to the Vegetable Garden
• Till organic soil amendments a good 4-6” into the ground