Tips for Amending Garden Soil Organically

Image: OakleyOriginals/Flickr

You don’t have to be a chemist or even a green thumb to amend the soil in your vegetable garden. With a few tips and the right tools, adding organic nutrients is easy. For hardcore gardeners, figuring out what the soil is lacking is the first step (this is done with a home soil test kit). For gardeners like me, who are easy going, adding amendments means tilling in a few inches of compost and calling it a day.

Types of Organic Soil Amendments

Year-Old Manure: Very important that it’s rotted so it doesn’t burn the roots of some plants or cause them to grow enormously but not produce any flowers, fruits or vegetables.

Finished Compost: “Black Gold” Finished compost does not have a rotted odor, rather it should smell like earth. It should be dark in color and be completely broken down with no chunks of decomposing material.

Store-Bought Organic Fertilizer: Really read the label on bags of “organic” fertilizers before buying them. Look for N-P-K ratios that are lower than 8 and stay away from ingredients such as superphosphate, nitrate, urea, phosphoric, ammonium, & muriate. (Garden Smarts)

Tips for Adding Organic Soil Amendments

• When amending the soil using an organic fertilizer, remember that too much isn’t always a good thing 
• ALWAYS follow the directions on bags of store bought fertilizers
• If you can, add organic amendments in fall so they have time to absorb into the soil
• Only use year-old or fully rotted manure to avoid burning, stunning or stunting vegetables
• Follow my guide for How Much Compost to Add to the Vegetable Garden
• Till organic soil amendments a good 4-6” into the ground

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Image: aroid/Flickr

Aphids maybe small, but don’t let their size fool you. These garden pests are known to wreak havoc in gardens throughout North America, leaving behind damaged plants from root to tip. The good news, there are 5 ways to control aphids organically.

How to Identify Aphids

Adult Aphids: These adult garden pests grow from 1/16 - 3/8 of an inch in size as adults. They have pear-shaped bodies, some with wings that grow longer than the body. Aphids range in color from powder grey, black, green, yellow and pink.

Nymphs: Nymphs are slightly smaller than adults and have no wings.

When Aphids Attack

Aphids can mount an attack any time during the growing season due to their life cycles. Females can produce nymphs all on their own. Those nymphs, which take abut 1 - 2 weeks to mature, then produce nymphs themselves and thus the cycles continues. The cycle is able to continue in cold climates because female aphids lay their eggs in fall with the eggs hatching in spring.

Common Plants Aphids Attack

• Fruit Plants
• Vegetable Plants
• Flowers
• Ornamentals
• Shade Trees

How to Identify Damage Caused by Aphids

Aphids are known in the world of garden pests as being sap suckers. This often leads to leaves, buds, branch tips and flowers becoming disfigured and droopy. Plants suffering from a severe aphid infestation can lose their leaves.

Furthermore, as these garden pests feed on plant sap, they secrete a substance, both sticky and sweet. Mold has a tendency to grow from their secretions, blocking light to the leaves below. To make matters worse, aphids can spread disease from one plant to another making controlling these garden pests a priority in the garden.

Image: Gibby's Garden

5 Ways to Control Aphids Organically

1. Water from the Hose: Set the hose to a strong spray and rinse away aphids. Since aphids are tiny and delicate, a strong stream from the hose or driving rain is enough to kill them.

2. Dormant Oil: In fall, spray dormant oil on fruit trees on the property. The oil will kill aphid eggs.

3. Pollen/Nectar Rich Plants: Plant flowers and plants that are heavy pollinators and those that offer lots of nectar. (Yarrow, sweet alyssum etc.) These types of plants attract “good bugs” which prey on aphids.

4. Ant Control: Some ants protect aphid colonies that have taken over fruit trees. To control the ants organically, wrap sticky bands around the trunks of infested trees.

5. Soaps, Oils and Sprays: Spray affected plants with insecticidal soap, summer oil or a garlic spray. Make sure the soaps, spray and oils are organic and the plants being sprayed can tolerate them.

The writers of Rodale Gardening Basics: Pests, suggest making a homemade garlic spray by soaking 10 - 15 finely chopped garlic gloves in 1 pint of mineral oil for 24 hours. Strain the oil which can be diluted, and use as needed.

For organic gardeners, controlling bad bugs such as aphids is a must. Too much hard work from planning, planting, weeding and watering goes into an organic vegetable garden to let garden pests take over and enjoy the bounty. Keep an eye out for aphids and other pests and begin controlling them from the first sign that they are in the garden.

Related Articles

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Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

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Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically 

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically

Image: Gibby's Garden

Cabbageworms (imported) are found throughout the U.S. and Canada. After invading the garden and chewing through the leaves of plants, they leave behind large holes and piles of dark droppings called frass; 2 telltale signs the garden pests have arrived. Fortunately for gardeners, there are 6 ways to control imported cabbageworms organically.

How to Identify Imported Cabbageworms

Adult Cabbageworms: Adults are white butterflies with black-tipped wings. Their forewings have 1 - 2 black spots on them and their wingspan measures about 1 ½ inches. As adults, cabbageworms continue to putter around the garden.

Larvae: Cabbageworm larvae are green and velvety. In the larval stage, these garden pests are in the form of caterpillars measuring about 1 1/4 inches long. They have a single, yellow stripe that runs down their backs.

Eggs: Eggs are yellow in color and cone-shaped. They can be found on the undersides of plant leaves.

When Imported Cabbageworms Attack

Adult cabbageworms come out in late spring to lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves. When the eggs hatch into caterpillars, they feed for 2 - 3 weeks on plant leaves, typically on the undersides. Next, they pupate, turning into butterflies a short 1 - 2 weeks later. These garden pests produce from 3 - 5 generations a year.

Plants Cabbageworms Attack

• Cabbage Family Plants (broccoli, cauliflower)
• Nasturtiums

How to Identify Cabbageworm Damage

Look for large holes that have been chewed through the leaves of plants in the cabbage family as well as piles of droppings (frass). Watch for damage on broccoli and cauliflower florets as cabbageworms will borrow through these as well.

Image: Patrice Beaulieu

6 Ways to Control Imported Cabbageworms Organically

1. Floating Row Covers: Cover plants cabbageworms attack with floating row covers. These prevent adult garden pests from laying their eggs.

2. Purple Cabbage Varieties: Plant these; they are less attractive to imported cabbageworms.

3. Sticky Traps: Place these near plants cabbageworms attack, especially those where eggs and caterpillars have been found. The traps will catch a good majority of butterflies.

4. Handpicking: Bring a bucket or bottle of soapy water out to the garden. Look on both sides of leaves on cabbage family plants and handpick eggs and caterpillars.

5. Garden Clean Up: In the fall, remove all plant debris from the garden to prevent pupae from over wintering in the soil.

6. Attract Good Bugs: Good bugs, like spined soldier bugs, green lacewings and syrphid flies all feed on cabbageworm larvae and eggs and are a great way to control cabbageworms organically. Spined soldier bugs are attracted to pollinating plants such as goldenrod, hydrangeas and milkweed.

Green lacewings are attracted to plants such as dill, caraway, dandelion, angelica, cosmos, sunflowers, goldenrod, and sweet alyssum. To water lacewings (they are delicate) and keep them in the garden, place a shallow pan with a layer of gravel on the bottom in the garden and then fill with a little water. This provides them with a place to drink without drowning.

Attract syrphid flies to the garden by planting pollen and nectar, providing plants like wild mustard and alyssum. Surround the garden with tall, flowering plants like sunflowers to provide a windbreak for syrphid flies.

Controlling imported cabbageworms organically is a multi-season task. Begin in the fall by removing all dead plants from the garden, especially those that have been attacked by garden pests. Do a walk-through of the garden and inspect plants for eggs and larvae. Get a head start on controlling the pests by handpicking them from the first time they appear.

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Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

 Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically

Image: Squeezyboy/Flickr

Squash bugs, commonly called “stink bugs,” are known for the odor they emit after being squished, but gardeners know that there’s more to these garden pests than their smell; they invade vegetable gardens and make themselves at home as they chew on plant stems and suck on their juices. Fortunately for the organic gardener, there are 7 ways to control the squash bug population without using a drop of pesticides.

How to Identify Squash Bugs

Eggs: Squash bugs lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves in small clusters. Newly laid eggs are shiny yellow in color while mature eggs are brick red.

Nymphs: Nymphs start life pale green in color and turn gray as they age.

Adults: When these garden pests turn into adults, they grow to ½ inch in size. Their bodies are oval shaped and either dark brown or black in color.

When Squash Bugs Attack

The life cycle of a squash bug happens over the course of a year, which is good news because this limits them to producing 1 generation a year. Spring is the time these garden pests lay their eggs. 1 to 2 weeks later, they hatch into nymphs which take about 4 to 6 weeks to grow. When winter rolls around, adult squash bugs burrow under garden debris or anything lying on the ground that will give them shelter.

Common Plants Squash Bugs Attack

Nymphs and adult squash bugs will suck the juices from the following plants, attacking stems and vines.

• Squash
• Cucumbers
• Pumpkins
• Gourds
• Melons

How to Identify Squash Bug Damage

There are telltale signs that squash bugs are present in the garden, organic or not. Vines and stems have obvious “bite marks” which look like ragged dents. Leaves of plants begin to wilt, turn black and eventually die. This can happen to young shoots as well.

Image: Patrice Beaulieu

7 Ways to Control Squash Bugs Organically

1. Plant Resistant Varieties of Plants: Check with the local plant nursery, consult seed catalogs and gardening websites for plant varieties that are resistant to squash bugs.

2. Handpick Bugs: Check the undersides of plants regularly and handpick any and all eggs, nymphs and adult squash bugs. Carry a bucket or bottle of soapy water and drop the garden pests inside where they’ll drown. This is a great way to control pests organically.

3. Use Trellises: Grow plants along trellises to keep vines off the ground.

4. Utilize Boards/Cardboard: Place boards or pieces of cardboard around plant stems. In the early morning, lift the boards and handpick or squish any bugs that spent the night under the boards.

5. Tachnid Flies: Attract tachnid flies by planting sweet fennel, parsley, clover, dill, goldenrod, buckwheat, wild carrot and amaranth around the garden. The flies are a great way to control squash bugs organically because they lay their eggs on the backs of squash bugs where they hatch, borrowing inside the garden pest.

Tachnid fly larvae produce more flies which will eventually wipe out about 80% of the adult squash bug population. Leave infected adults be so the eggs can hatch and continue the tachnid fly life cycle.

6. Remove Garden Debris: Come fall, clear the garden of all debris including dead plants, boards and anything else adult bugs can over winter under.

7. Floating Row Covers: Use these to protect young plants. Once plants flower, the covers will have to be lifted for a few hours each day to allow for pollination. Once plants begin steadily growing, remove the floating row covers all together.

Controlling squash bugs organically is a 3 season process. Begin in the fall by cleaning up the garden and check for and remove squash bugs in all stages of life throughout the growing season.

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Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

Image: MSVG/Flickr

Japanese beetles are destructive garden pests that leave behind a wake of damaged and dying plants. They thrive in Maine and the rest of the northeast making their first appearances in July. There are 5 ways to keep these pests under control organically, bringing gardeners 1 step closer to a healthy and more productive garden.

How to Identify Japanese Beetles

Adult Japanese beetles grow to about ½ inch long. Their wing covers are bronze in color while the rest of their bodies are a metallic blue-green. The long legs of these beetles are easily visible, sticking out from their blocky bodies with their claw-like feet.

The larvae of Japanese beetles are called grubs. They are C-shaped and tannish-white in color. Larvae are fat and easy to see in freshly tilled soil.

When to Look for Japanese Beetles

Late June to early July is the prime time for Japanese beetles to make their first appearances. They feed on plants until late summer before burrowing under grass to lay their eggs. Once the eggs hatch into larvae, the larvae feed until cold weather moves in. Before the ground freezes, they burrow underground until spring when they emerge to feed on plant roots. Slowly, from May until June, larvae turn into adults continuing the life cycle.

Common Plants Japanese Beetles Attack

• Beans
• Peas
• Corn
• Tomatoes
• Trees
• Shrubs
• Fruits
• Vines
• Flowers

5 Ways to Control Japanese Beetles Organically

1. Floating Row Covers: Cover plants with floating row covers to protect them from Japanese beetles. During mid-summer if you notice beetles attacking uncovered plants, cover the smaller, more delicate ones with floating row covers to keep them protected.

2. Lawn Control: When July and early August roll around, let the lawn completely dry between waterings. This helps to control the egg population organically by drying them out.

3. Aerate the Lawn: During late spring and early fall, aerate the lawn to kill grubs.

4. Parasitic Nematodes: Apply these to the lawn in early spring or late fall. During this time, grubs are in the ground where the nematodes can feed on them.

5. Handpick the Garden Pests: Early morning is the best time to spot Japanese beetles on plants. Handpick them and drop them into a bucket or bottle of soapy water where they’ll drown.

Japanese beetles have the ability to chew through all the leaves on an entire plant making it important to control them from the day they emerge in the garden. Once they’re done feasting on one plant they’ll move on to another. Look for brittle, skeleton-like leaves or once healthy plants surrounded by dead foliage on the ground.

What’s Going on in Gibby’s Garden?

Japanese beetles have already begun to emerge in Gibby’s Garden. So far they’re more interested in the catnip than the vegetable plants. You can bet I’ll be out each morning with a bottle of soapy water handpicking these garden pests.

FYI: Did you know that Japanese beetles are attracted to some varieties of bamboo? I have some growing near one of my vegetable gardens. Though I don’t care for the plant because it spreads like crazy and is hard to get rid of, I leave a large patch undisturbed near my garden to lore the Japanese beetles out.

Check out Gibby’s Garden Diary to see what else is going on in the garden.

Related Articles

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Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically 
Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically 
Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Image: AustinT./Flickr

Not only do cucumber beetles live in Maine’s organic vegetables gardens, they thrive throughout the entire U.S. and most of Canada. These pests eat through leaves, flowers and fruits as adults and borrow their way into the base of plant stems and eat away at roots at the larval stage, often killing young plants. There are 4 ways to control cucumber beetles organically before, during and after the growing season.

Cucumber Beetle Identification

Wondering how to identify cucumber beetles? It’s pretty easy when you know what to look for. There are 2 types of cucumber beetles and here’s how to identify each.

Striped: Adult striped cucumber beetles grow to about 1/4 inch long with black heads and have 3 black stripes running down their backs that are big enough to identify. Their larvae are bigger, about 3/4 inches long with reddish brown heads and thin, white bodies. (see above picture)

Image: CamPixie/Flickr

Spotted: Adult spotted cucumber beetles grow to about 1/4 inch long and have 12 black spots dotting the coverings of their wings. Their larvae look the same as striped cucumber beetle larvae.

Common Plants Cucumber Beetles Attack

• Cucumbers
• Pumpkins
• Melons
• Squash
• Corn

When They Feed and Reproduce

Spotted cucumber beetles come out from April to early June, eat for 2 weeks and lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch into larvae, the larvae feed for 2 to 6 weeks before turning into adults and starting the cycle again. Spotted beetles have been known to produce up to 4 generations a year.

Striped Cucumber Beetles come out in spring. The adults lay their eggs near the soil’s surface, particularly near corn plants when they are available. Once the eggs hatch and larvae appear, they feed for 2 to 4 weeks before turning into adults and starting the life cycle again. Striped beetles can produce up to 3 generations each year.

How to Identify Cucumber Beetle Damage

When cucumber beetles have finished feeding and have moved on to new plants or to lay their eggs, they leave behind plenty of damage letting gardeners know they’ve been there. To identify damage left by these common garden pests, look for skeletal-like leaves that have browned and turned brittle. Also look for holes that have been chewed through flowers and fruits.

Image: © Patrice Beaulieu

4 Ways to Control Cucumber Beetles Organically

1. Floating Row Covers: Protect young plants with floating row covers as soon as seedlings germinate. This will help keep cucumber beetles away organically. Watch for plants to flower and as soon as they do, roll back the floating row covers for a few hours each day to allow the plants to be pollinated.

2. Wilt/Mosaic-Resistant Varieties: When choosing varieties of plants for the garden, plant those that are known to be resistant to wilt and mosaic virus. Seed companies include which viruses and diseases plants are resistant to in the plant’s description in catalogs and on seed packets.

3. Non-Bitter Varieties: Cucumber beetles prefer non-bitter varieties of cucumbers so plant non-bitter varieties in the garden.

4. Remove Dead Plants: When the growing season has come to a close, remove all dead plants and debris from the garden. This measure helps control cucumber beetles organically because the beetles over winter under clumps of dead plants.

When it comes to insects, cucumber beetles are one of the top garden pests in Maine. In this area, July is the prime month for adult beetles to begin emerging and leaving behind a path of destruction. The good news for organic gardeners; these pests can be controlled without the use of pesticides leaving the garden chemical-free.

What’s Going on in Gibby’s Garden?

It’s mid July and cucumber beetles are out in full force in Gibby’s Garden. This weekend I noticed the leaves of my squash plants had been heavily damaged by cucumber beetles. I sprinkled my plants with ground black pepper. This method is organic and works well in conjunction with the methods listed in this post. For some reason, cucumber beetles don’t like black pepper, but hey, neither do I.

Check out Gibby’s Garden Diary to see what else is going on in Gibby’s Garden.

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Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

How to Control Slugs Organically

Image: born1945, Flickr

I don’t know about your vegetable garden, but mine has already begun attracting slugs and its still early June. Slugs are common garden pests here in Maine and in other parts of the country. They slither their way in during the dead of night and chew through the leaves of our plants. So what are we as organic gardeners to do?

We take a stand and make our own slug traps; organically. Learning to make your own slug traps is pretty easy, takes a matter of minutes and most supplies are already around the home. Here’s what you need and what to do.

Slug Trap Supplies

Empty Containers - Tuna or cat food cans will do

Beer - Beer can be leftover and warm from the night before or from a newly opened bottle or can

How to Make Your Own Slug Traps

1. Clean your empty containers and place them around the garden where you’ve noticed slugs or the destruction they’ve left behind

2. Fill the containers halfway with beer

Beer attracts slugs; don't ask me why but it does. Filling your traps no more than half way with beer prevents the slugs from slithering back out. Once in the traps, they drown. 

Once you’ve set your traps, check on them a day or two later; I bet you’ll be amazed at how many slugs you’ve attracted. Make sure to check on your traps at least a few times a week, empty their contents and refill with beer.

This is how I control slugs in my vegetable garden every year. I place my traps in the shade from my plants to help keep them from getting moldy. They usually need to be emptied and refilled a few times a week until the slug population gets under control.

Related Articles

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically 

Is Organic Vegetable Gardening for You?

Image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net

What does it take to be an organic vegetable gardener? For starters, it takes planning, sweat and work, but, if you have a passion for gardening and growing and eating your own organic vegetables, the work really isn’t that bad.

For me, knowing where my vegetables came from, how they were grown and having the peace of mind that I won’t be ingesting any chemicals or pesticides makes enjoying the fruits of my labor well worth it.

I don’t want to discourage you from organic vegetable gardening, but it does take some work; how much depends on your commitment and the size of your garden. Most of the work takes place during planting and mulching. From then on the work gets much lighter leaving time to enjoy the summer.

After your seedlings have been transplanted, your seeds sown and a fine layer of mulch added, the majority of the work is over; it’s basically up to your garden to do the rest of the work. Sure you’ll have to pull a few weeds here and there; they are stubborn after all and some will pop up through the mulch, but they are much easier to pull from beneath a layer of mulch than bare ground.

You’ll also have to combat garden pests, but with the right know-how, doing this organically, without any pesticides, really isn’t that complicated. In the end, you’ll have the satisfaction of providing healthy, organic vegetables for your family - I know I do.

How to Grow Vegetables Organically

Seeds: There are lots of seed companies that sell organic vegetables seeds. They haven’t been coated or treated with any chemicals which makes them organic. They’re a bit more expensive and choosing to go this route is up to you. You can still garden organically without using organic vegetable seeds.

Fertilizer: Fertilize your garden with organic fertilizers. These can be bought at garden centers and nurseries. I use compost and year-old manure and it works wonders.

Mulch: Use organic mulch such as grass clippings, leaves, straw or hay etc. Mulching keeps the soil warm and moist and blocks weeds from growing. It takes some work to completely mulch a large vegetable garden but it is worth it when you spend minutes as opposed to hours weeding every week.

Pest Control: No chemicals or pesticides needed. Hand pick pests, use organic traps and plant insect repelling herbs and other plants in the garden.

The whole point of organic gardening is to eliminate the use of chemicals and pesticides. You can grow a productive and healthy garden without them, trust me, I’ve been doing it for years. My advice is to read about different techniques and tips and give them a try. Figure out what works for you, what doesn’t and what fits into your lifestyle.

Do you have any organic vegetable gardening tips to pass along?