3 Must Try Vegetables for 2014

Gibby's Garden

With the start of the new year and all the rain we've been getting here in Maine, I couldn't help but dig out my seed catalogs and start making a list of all the vegetables I want to plant come spring. Of course I have my normal must-haves like cukes and tomatoes, but I've also added a few vegetables I'd love to try but have never grown before.

With that being said, isn't time we all start to garden outside of the box and add some tasty adventures to our garden plots and boxes? Now, I'm not talking about some foreign vegetable that only Andrew Zimmern would dare to eat or one you can't pronounce. I'm talking about the veggies we see in our local produce departments that spark our interest and get our taste buds talking.

My 3 Must-Try Vegetables

Kale

Jebulon/Wikimedia Commons

I don't know about you, but I watch lots of cooking shows on TV, and I keep seeing kale starring as the main attraction. Kale is a great vegetable to grow here in the north because it's cold tolerant and the flavor only intensifies with a good frost. Kale loves fertile, highly organic, well-draining soil and grows best when watered consistently. 

When it comes time to harvest, begin clipping individual leaves after about 2 months time and continue clipping until a heavy frost kills the plants off. Once in the kitchen, have fun incorporating this tasty leafy green into your favorite dishes including chips, soups, pasta and more. 

If the thought of making your own crunchy chips and fresh pesto isn't enough, think about your waist line. Kale is packed with Vitamins A & C and is low in saturated fat and cholesterol, making this a must-try for 

those of us looking to eat a little healthier this year.

Leeks

Pauk/Wikimedia Commons

Leeks are nothing new; in fact, you've probably walked right by them in the produce section, perhaps not even knowing what they were. They have long greens stemming from white bottoms, which as you probably guessed, are the edible part. To me, leeks taste like a very mild onion and make for a great potato and leek soup, one of my favorite winter dishes. 

Due to the different varieties available, leeks can be grown successfully in hot and cold climates. Here in the north, it's important to grow a variety that is suitable to colder climates such as Lexton or Bandit. Both tolerate frost very well and can be planted in succession, meaning you can have multiple harvests over an extended period, even after the frost has killed off the rest of the garden.

Keep in mind, the more cold tolerant the leek, the longer it takes to mature - but trust me, it is well worth the wait.  Harvest baby leeks for a tender, sweeter taste and mature leeks, which may take 110-120 days to mature depending on the variety, for full flavor. 

Plant these toned-down onion cousins in fertile, well-draining soil in a sunny location in the garden. Now, without scaring you off from growing this must-try vegetable, you need to know that leeks must be blanched. All this means is that the stems need to be hidden from the sun in order to turn white. This can easily be done by planting leeks in trenches, and if need be, by piling soil over the stems should they peek from below ground.

Edamame

Tammy Green/Wikimedia Commons

Are you a fan of green peas and Lima beans? If yes, then edamame is a must-try in 2014. Grown in well-draining, moderately fertile soil, these soybeans, a staple in Japanese cuisine, are known for their flavor and nutrients.  Pop a handful into your mouth to enjoy a fresh, crunchy snack or steam as a tasty side to your favorite lean cut of meat.

A little sweeter than some peas, edamame is packed with nutrients like protein, amino acids, calcium, fiber and more. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, edamame is a great source of folic acid. Edamame is also a great source of energy, so make sure to add it to your list of power-packed vegetables to try.

For us gardeners in the north, it's important to choose an early variety of edamame in order to enjoy it's full bounty. So, opt for a variety that takes about 90 days or less to mature. Butterbeans is a great variety that is sure to produce a heavy yield great for freezing, canning or eating fresh. Remember to pick these tasty vegetables when the seeds swell and before the pods turn yellow.

I don't know about you, but I cannot wait to get outdoors and work up a sweat in the garden. I know I still have a few more months before the Maine weather will allow me to do this, but I can dream can't I? Until the snow melts, the frost makes its way out of the ground and the blessed spring sun warms our gardens, I'll be busy making my lists of vegetables to grow and planning my garden.

What "new to you" vegetables are you going to try growing this year? Do you have any pointers for those us who will be growing kale, leeks or edamame?

Best Varieties of Vegetables to Grow in the North

The north may have a short growing season, but that doesn’t mean gardeners have to skimp on the types and varieties of vegetables they grow. The best vegetables take 70 days or less to mature and some, such as melons and pumpkins, should be started indoors or bought at the local nursery to save on time.

Please remember this list is a work in progress as I work my way through the list of vegetables and it will be updated weekly. Click the links below to find lists of the best varieties of vegetables to grow in the north.

• Artichoke
• Asparagus
• Beans
• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots
• Cauliflower
• Celery
• Chard (Swiss)

3 Vegetables to Try in Your Garden Next Year



Image: thebittenword.com/Flickr

Looking to spice up your vegetable garden next year? Well, why not try growing something new? I know I did last year and I’m glad I did. Now is the perfect time to scour the internet in search of a new vegetable or two to try in your own garden. 

To help give you a gentle nudge in the right direction, I’ve put together a list of my must-haves - all of which I grew in my own garden for the first time last year.

3 Must-Have Vegetables to Try Growing

Kohlrabi

Image: Dénes Emőke

Kohlrabi, once a staple in many European vegetable gardens, is quickly becoming more and more popular in the U.S. It’s readily available in most produce sections and has been popping up in more gardens across the country.

Kohlrabi has a crisp, almost sweet taste that is sort of a cross between cabbage and a mild radish. It can be eaten raw or cooked and makes a fresh addition to salads and stir-fry’s. Due to the amount of rain we had last spring, I didn’t get a huge crop of kohlrabi but the plants that survived were tasty enough to make me want to grow kohlrabi again next year.

Here are some must-have early varieties, one of which I’ll be growing myself come spring, and yes, kohlrabi can be grown in the north.


Early White Vienna - 55 Days
Eder - 38 Days
Korridor - 42 Days
Winner - 45 Days
Kolibri - 45 Days

Popcorn

Image: User:Royalbroil/CC-BY-SA-2.5

Lots of people love popcorn and knowing that it came from your own garden makes it much more enjoyable. There are a handful of varieties of popcorn to choose from and many double as ornamental corn so its like getting a 2 for 1 deal when you grow it in your own garden.

I myself grew Japanese Hull-Less popcorn in my garden last year. I like this variety because it takes about 83 days to mature and since I live in the north, an early variety works best for me. The trick to growing popcorn is to let the kernels dry right on the stalks even after they’ve turned brown.

Robust - 112 Days

Red Beauty - 120 Days

Neon Pink - 110 Days

Emerald Green - 110 Days

Shades of Blue - 110 Days

Japanese White Hull-Less - 83 Days

Yard Long Beans

Image: clayirving/Flickr

Yard long beans have a slightly different taste than other varieties of beans. They're a bit milder in flavor, meaning not as sweet. I love them in a stir fry or lightly sautéed in olive oil. What’s fun about growing your own yard long beans is watching them grow. Some beans can grow an inch or two in a single day. If you do decide to try growing yard long beans in your own garden, keep in mind that they are pole beans so they’ll grow best along a fence or trellis.

Yard long beans taste the best when they’re about the thickness of a pencil. In my opinion, they are a must-have and an exciting new vegetable to grow due to their size alone. The three varieties I have listed below can grow from 15 - 20” long.

Orient Wonder - 85 Days

Gita - 78 Days

Red Noodle - 85 Days

Which new vegetables are you going to try in your garden next year? Have any suggestions?

3 Methods to Preserve the Garden’s Bounty

Image: freedigitalphotos.net

It’s that time of year when the garden is busy producing bushels of beans, pecks of peppers and baskets full of tomatoes. It’s also the time when farmers markets are ripe with fresh fruits and vegetables being sold at their lowest prices. So, how can you stock up on this abundance of produce and preserve it to last until next season? By freezing, canning and dehydrating, that’s how.

Freezing Fruits and Vegetables

There are lots of fruits and vegetables that can be frozen after a quick blanching. Blanching is the simple process of adding fruits and vegetables to boiling water for a few minutes at a time and then plunging them into a bath of iced water to stop the cooking process. After patting them dry, simply place in freezer bags or containers, label with the date and name of contents and pop into the freezer. This method of preservation keeps fruits and vegetables good for about 8 – 12 months.

Canning Fruits and Vegetables

Canning and preserving fruits and vegetables from the garden is a classic way to preserve the garden’s harvest. With a few pieces of canning equipment, the right spices and a step by step recipe, you can preserve and store pickles, jams, whole fruits and vegetables, sauces and more for up to a year or more.

There are lots of great books on canning and preserving, my favorite being Blue Ribbon Preserves, and lots of free canning recipes online. Whether you’re a beginner or not, you’re sure to find lots of timeless and new recipes to try.

Dehydrating Fruits and Vegetables

Dehydrating fruits and vegetables is yet another way to preserve your harvest. This method of preservation can be done in 8 - 10 hours in a food dehydrator or oven. The produce dries instead of baking because it cooks at a low temperature. Dehydrated foods can last up to a year when stored properly.

You can use one or all 3 ways to preserve your garden’s harvest. Personally, I use the freezing and canning methods each year, though this year, I’m going to try dehydrating some peaches and pears from my fruit trees. Which methods of preservation would you like to try?

Guide to Dehydrating Fruits and Vegetables from the Garden

Image: freedigitalphotos.net

Dehydrating, or drying fruits and vegetables, is a great method for preserving the garden’s bounty. After selecting the best produce and with a little preparation, you can have your favorite fruits and vegetables fully dehydrated in 8 to 10 hours.

Selecting the Best Fruits and Vegetables to Dehydrate

Fruits and vegetables that are dehydrated at their peak ripeness and those that are blemish-free last longer, look better, and produce overall better results.

Ripeness: Fruits and vegetables should be fully ripe, not over or under

Blemish-Free: No blemishes or bruises

Spoilage: No spoilage or brown spots

The Preparation Process

Prepare fruits and vegetables, especially fruits, as close to the time you’ll be putting them into the dehydrator as possible. This helps keep them from oxidizing.

Slice/Dice: Prepare fruits and vegetables by slicing and dicing them to a size you prefer. Remove the seeds, cores, husks, and any other inedible parts.

Uniformity: Slice and dice all fruits and vegetables as close to the same size and thickness as possible. This helps them to dry evenly and at the same pace.

Blanching: About.com suggests blanching the following fruits and vegetables for 3 - 5 minutes to help them keep their color and shorten the amount of time it takes them to dehydrate.

• Cauliflower
• Broccoli
• Carrots
• Celery
• Corn
• Potatoes
• Peas

Spice: Go ahead and sprinkle on salt or other desired spices before beginning the dehydrating process. How much, if any, you add is up to you.

The Dehydration Process

Every make and model of dehydrator is slightly different which affects the amount of time it takes to dehydrate fruits and vegetables. Always consult your owner’s manual for drying times and how to properly operate your appliance. It’s best to dehydrate one type of produce at a time because different fruits and vegetables have different drying times.

Placement: Ensure fruits and vegetables aren’t overlapping after placing them in the dehydrator.

Inspection: As the dehydrating process comes to a close, keep a close eye on what’s in the dehydrator. Remove a slice, let it coo,l and touch it. Does it feel and look dry? Use the inspection process to gage whether or not your produce needs more drying time.

When the drying time comes to an end, cut into a few slices and check for moisture. If you see any moisture bubbles your produce isn’t completely dehydrated and needs more drying time.

Cool Down: Let your fully dehydrated fruits and vegetables cool for 30 to 60 minutes after pulling them from the dehydrator. Drying racks work great for this.

Storing Dehydrated Fruits and Vegetables

Conditioning: Place dehydrated produce in jars making sure they are loosely packed and screw the lid on. Store them in a dry place for 7 - 10 days making sure to shake them once a day. Mason jars will work fine for this. If any jars form condensation, your produce needs to head back to the dehydrator for some additional drying time.

Final Storage: Place dried goods in air tight jars, freezer bags, or other storage containers. Store them in a dry, dark place with good air ventilation.

Dehydrated fruits and vegetables are good for up to a year, letting you and your family enjoy the garden’s bounty over the long winter months and then some. Remember to label and date your packaged goods and make notes about dehydrating times and other tips you learned along the way to make drying your produce even better the next time around.

Reference: Huffstetler, Erin. "How To Dry Fruits and Vegetables with a Dehydrator." About.com Frugal Living. About.com, n.d. Web. 13 Aug. 2012. <http://frugalliving.about.com/od/foodsavings/ht/Dehydrate_Foods.htm>.

The Vegetable Harvesting Guide: When & How to Harvest in the North

You put a lot of work into your vegetable garden and it’s only natural to want to reap the rewards - after all, you deserve it. To get the best tasting vegetables and encourage plants to keep producing, keep track of days to maturity and consult the following guide to know when and how to harvest vegetables in the north.

Chart of When & How to Harvest Vegetables

Asparagus	When: Spears reach 6 - 10" tall
	How: Use a sharp knife & cut spears at ground level
Beans, Lima	When: Pods have filled out & before they yellow *
	How: Twist & snap pods from plant
Beans, Snap	When: Pods have small seeds, about 1/4 the size of plant seed
	How: Twist & snap pods from plant
Beets	When: Bulbs reach 2 - 3" in diameter **
	How: Pull from base of plant
Broccoli	When: Terminal heads have tight, dark green florets
	How: Cleanly slice heads 4- 5" below florets
Brussels Sprouts	When: Harvest when sprouts are small & firm
	How: Twist sprouts off starting at bottom of plant & working up
Cabbage	When: Heads are firm and before they split
	How: Cleanly slice heads from plant
Cantaloupe	When: Fruit is beige, blossom end is soft & stem easily slips off vine
	How: Twist & pull from vine
Carrots	When: Roots reach 1 - 2" in diameter ***
	How: Twist & pull at base of plant
Cauliflower	When: Heads reach 1-2" in diameter, tie outer leaves over head. Harvest 1 -2 weeks later before heads yellow
	How: Cleanly slice heads from plant
Chard, Swiss	When: Early summer to first moderate frost
	How: Break off outer leaves of plant
Corn, Sweet	When: Tips fill out husk, silks are dry & kernels full. Peel back top of husk & press fingernail into a kernel, if it gives a milk-like sap, it’s ready for harvest
	How: Twist & pull ears from stalks
Cucumbers	When: Diameter reaches 1 ½ - 2 ½", spines soften & before cucumbers turn yellow
	How: Twist and pull from vine
Eggplant	When: Almost full-grown & bright & shiny in color
	How: Twist & pull from plant
Kale	When: Leaves & stems reach size of hand
	How: Snip handful at a time leaving terminal bud on plant
Kohlrabi	When: Stems reach 2 - 3" in diameter
	How: Pull plants from ground, cut tops
Lettuce, Heads	When: Head is firm & before bolting
	How: Pull entire plant from ground & slice off head
Lettuce, Leaf	When: Leaves reach desired size
	How: Snip outer leaves, working inward as leaves mature
Okra	When: Pods reach 2 - 3" long
	How: Snap pods from plant
Onions, Bulb	When: Tops have browned and fallen over
	How: Pull on dry, windy day, let rest in garden for 1day, cure in dry, well-ventilated area for 2 weeks
Onions, Green	When: 5” tall or when desired size is reached
	How: Pull or snip greens to allow for mature harvest later
Parsnips	When: Late fall after a few moderate freezes
	How: Twist & pull at base of plant
Peas, Shelling	When: Peas begin to fill pods, pods begin to swell
	How: Twist and pull from plant
Peas, Snow	When: Pods reach desired length & before they fill out
	How: Twist & snap from plant
Pepper, Sweet	When: Fruits are thick, firm, full-sized & desired color
	How: Cleanly slice stem from plant
Potatoes, New	When: 2 weeks after blooming
	How: Dig up
Potatoes, Main	When: Tops have died down & ground is dry
	How: Dig up, cure in dry, well-ventilated area for 10-14 days
Pumpkins	When: Thumbnail cannot penetrate skin, stem browns & dries
	How: Cut from vine leaving 1-2" of stem attached to pumpkin
Radish	When: Bulb reaches ½-1" in diameter ****
	How: Pull from base of plant
Rhubarb	When: Stalks are ½-1" in diameter, & 10-12" tall (leaves are poisonous)
	How: Twist & pull stalks at bases
Spinach	When: Leaves reach desired size
	How: Snip or pinch leaves working from outside of plant inwards
Squash, Summer	When: Young & tender, skin is penetrable by thumbnail
	How: Twist & pull from vine leaving ½" stem attached to squash
Squash, Winter	When: Thumbnail cannot penetrate skin, stem browns & dries
	How: Cut from vine leaving 1-2" of stem attached to squash, cure for 10 days in well-ventilated, dry area
Sweet Potato	When: In fall, before first major frost
	How: Dig up, cure 1 week in well-ventilated, dry area
Tomato	When: Firm & uniformly red
	How: Twist & pull from plant
Turnip	When: Bulbs are 1" + in diameter & before first major frost
	How: Twist & pull at base
Watermelon	When: Sounds dull & hollow when thumped, bottom yellows & tendrils brown & die
	How: Snip stem from vine

* Beans, Lima: For tender lima beans, harvest right before beans mature. For meatier beans, harvest when fully mature.

** Beets: Harvest beet greens when beets are about 1" in diameter. Spring planted beets should be harvested by July while fall planted beets should be harvested before the ground freezes.

*** Carrots: Harvest carrots planted in spring by July and carrots planted in fall before the ground freezes.

**** Radishes: Harvest radishes planted in spring by July and radishes planted in fall before ground freezes.

Reference: De Long, Eric. "Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables." Cornell.edu. Cornell Cooperative Extension, Chemung County, Oct. 2001. Web. Aug. 2012. <http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/vegetables/harvestguide.pdf >.