Monday, April 29, 2013

What is a Home Soil Test Kit?


Home Soil Test Kit
Home soil test kits are found in garden centers, local hardware stores and are readily available online. Their job is to test the soil’s pH by using a small sample. They are easy to use and typically less expensive than sending a sample off to the lab.

What is Soil pH?


Basically, the pH level of the soil tells you how acidic, or not, the soil is. Acidity is measured using a numbers system, 0-14. If the home soil test kit measures 0-7, it is acidic. 7 and above is alkaline. A 7.0 means the soil is neutral, and for many plants, nutritious enough to grow.

What is Acidic Soil?


Acidic soil is what many gardeners refer to as sour. Using powdered limestone is a great way to make acidic soil neutral.



What is Alkaline Soil? 


Alkaline soil is on the sweeter side, and can be amended with ground sulfur.

Note: When amending soil, don’t expect to see results overnight. Some amendments take months to work their way into the soil. Even then, it’s okay not to have a perfect 7.0 pH. Most plants, unless otherwise stated, thrive in soil with a pH level between 6.5-6.8.

Using a home soil test kit let’s gardeners determine which types of plants will grow best in their existing soil and whether or not they need to add amendments such as lime, sulfur or organic materials.


Monday, April 22, 2013

Gibby’s Garden Diary Entry #2: Leaves as Mulch?


April 22, 2013

Despite the windy weekend, I did get some raking done and managed to get one of my gardens mulched. I decided to convert one of my vegetable beds into a permanent herb garden. The garden gets plenty of sun and is conveniently close to house so I can wonder outside while cooking and snip the fresh herbs that I need.

As far as the mulching goes - I killed 2 birds with one stone as the saying goes. All the leaves I raked went into the designated herb garden. Now, this isn’t a choice all gardeners would make because it does have some drawbacks, but I’m trying something a little new this gardening season.

Here’s the plan. Since I’m putting in herbs and I’ve decided to go with plants from my local nursery to save on time, I’m not planning on tilling my entire herb garden. I’ll be doing the tilling by hand as I plant each herb and adding my finished compost as I go.

My plan, to help save on time since I go crazy planting vegetables each season, is to mulch  my gardens before doing the planting. Since my large vegetable beds will be tilled later this month or the beginning of the next, I’ll wait to mulch those with mulch hay. As I plant my plants and seeds, I’ll rake the mulch to the side for each individual row and replace it as necessary.

I’m hoping this will save time and help me to not get worn out. Plus, it’ll keep the weeds down from the beginning of the season saving even more time. My goal is to implement new ways to save time on gardening, something that I love, that way I don’t get burnt out and I can have time to enjoy other things this summer.

Now, as for using leaves as mulch, I typically don’t do this. As I mentioned before it does have some drawbacks, but it also has a good side. First the good side. Leaves, at least in my yard, are abundant and free! They’re also organic and will break down over time. As for the drawbacks, a thick layer of leaves provides the perfect hiding spot for pests. Brown leaves are also not the prettiest things to look at.

I’ll have to wait and see just how many pests the leaves invite into my garden this season before I can tell if it’s worth the free and abundant mulch. I figure when my plants go in and begin to grow, they’ll detract the eye from the brown leaves.

For the record, I wouldn’t use leaves that have been piled up all winter long or for a few seasons. I’ve tried this before and they were full of ants and had already begun to break down. The leaves I used were the ones I was too lazy to rake up last fall.

I’ll keep you guys posted on how well my time saving experiment works throughout the gardening season. Until then . . .

View previous posts


Gibby’s Garden Diary 2012

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Gibby's Garden Diary 2013


Friday, April 19, 2013

How to Grow Cauliflower in the North

Candid Charm Hybrid

Cauliflower is a long season vegetable that, under the right conditions, can be successfully grown in the north. The key is to use cauliflower transplants that take 70 days or less to mature ,and to grow them in a fertile, sunny location.

Cauliflower Information


Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Brassica oleracea botrytis
Genus: Cabbage Family

How to Start Cauliflower from Seed


Seed Starting Supplies



  • Trays/Pots
  • Organic Potting Soil
  • Cauliflower Seed
  • Small Watering Can
  • Sunny Location Indoors


Directions


(start indoors 4-6 weeks before average spring frost)

1. Fill trays ¾ way full with organic potting mix
2. Follow spacing requirements on back of cauliflower seed packet when sowing in trays, or 1-3 seeds per pot
3. Sprinkle 1/8” of soil over seeds
4. Water lightly
5. Keep seed tray in a sunny location and keep well watered

How to Grow Cauliflower Outdoors in the North


When: When temps are consistently 55°F or warmer in spring
Soil Type: Very fertile, well-draining soil (amend with finished compost/composted manure)
Spacing: Plant cauliflower 18-24” apart in rows
Light: Full sun
Watering: Keep consistently watered
Weeding: Weed consistently
Mulching: Apply mulch to reduce weeds and retain moisture
Fertilizing: Add compost to bed before planting and side dress plants with organic fertilizer high in nitrogen 3 weeks later
Care: For cauliflower varieties that are not self blanching, wrap leaves over head and tie at top to blanch when heads are almost full size (check seed packet for size). Check cauliflower a week to 12 days after tying, at which time they should be ready for harvest.

Common Cauliflower Pests and Diseases in the North


Pests

Harlequin Bugs: Look for black and white eggs on undersides of leaves as well as nymphs pale orange or black in color with spots. Adults are red and black spotted and crest-like in shape. They leave behind wilted, browning spots on leaves, eventually killing the plant. Handpick/spray with soapy water to control organically.

Cabbage Worms: Look for green worms and white cocoons. Handpick all worms and cocoons, drowning in soapy water. Use floating row covers to prevent pests.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

Diseases

Black Rot: Look for yellowing leaves eventually dying and falling off plants. Plants may also develop black spots/veins caused by bacteria. Plant resistant varieties and do not plant where members of the same family have grown in the past 2 years.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all cabbage roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

How to Harvest Cauliflower



  • Look for compact heads that are tightly balled and firm to the touch. Color will vary depending on the cauliflower variety planted. 
  • Cleanly slice heads just above ground level leaving a few leaves attached to the head (offers a little protection).


Tips for Storing Cauliflower


  • Cauliflower lasts for about a week when refrigerated 
  • Pickle or freeze for longer storage

Types of Cauliflower


Open Pollinated: Turns white on it’s own without wrapping the head with outer leaves of plant and tying.

White: Most common variety; easy to find in produce sections of the store. Produces all white heads.

Purple: All purple heads are mild in taste, typically turning green after cooking.

Orange: Produces orange heads full of beta carotene. This type is sometimes called Cheddar cauliflower.

Broccoflower or Green: Produces green heads. This type is a cross between broccoli and cauliflower.


Varieties of Cauliflower Best for the North


Orange Cauliflower Varieties


Cheddar Hybrid
Cheddar Hybrid: Newer variety. Produces 4-7” domed heads orange in color. Full of beta carotene. Easy to grow. One of the best hybrid varieties for the north. 68 days from transplants.

White Cauliflower Varieties


Self Blanche: Self blanching variety. Produces fine grained, smooth heads with tightly packed leaves. Great for pickling/freezing. 52 days from transplants.

Snow Crown Hybrid: Vigorous variety. Produces 2 lb. heads 7-8” in diameter. Easy to grow. 55 days from transplants.

Freemont: Adaptable variety. Produces white heads uniform in size. Self-blanching. 62 days from transplants.

Candid Charm Hybrid: High-yielding variety. Produces dense heads and thick wrapper leaves for extra protection. Very flavorful. 65 days from transplants.

Snowball Y Improved: Short season variety. Produces 6” heads surrounded by curled leaves. 65 days from transplants.

Bishop: Adaptable variety. Produces uniform heads with leaves that are self covering. Strong and vigorous plants. 65 days from transplants.



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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Best Varieties of Cauliflower to Grow in the North


Cheddar Hybrid
The best varieties of cauliflower to grow in the north take 70 days or less to mature from transplanting. Always use seedlings started indoors or transplants from the local nursery when growing cauliflower for the best results.

Types of Cauliflower


Open Pollinated: Turns white on it’s own without wrapping the head with outer leaves of plant and tying.

White: Most common variety; easy to find in produce sections of the store. Produces all white heads.

Purple: All purple heads are mild in taste, typically turning green after cooking.

Orange: Produces orange heads full of beta carotene. This type is sometimes called Cheddar cauliflower.

Broccoflower or Green: Produces green heads. This type is a cross between broccoli and cauliflower.


Varieties of Cauliflower Best for the North


Orange Cauliflower Varieties


Cheddar Hybrid: Newer variety. Produces 4-7” domed heads orange in color. Full of beta carotene. Easy to grow. One of the best hybrid varieties for the north. 68 days from transplants.

White Cauliflower Varieties


Candid Charm Hybrid
Self Blanche: Self blanching variety. Produces fine grained, smooth heads with tightly packed leaves. Great for pickling/freezing. 52 days from transplants.

Snow Crown Hybrid: Vigorous variety. Produces 2 lb. heads 7-8” in diameter. Easy to grow. 55 days from transplants.

Freemont: Adaptable variety. Produces white heads uniform in size. Self-blanching. 62 days from transplants.

Candid Charm Hybrid: High-yielding variety. Produces dense heads and thick wrapper leaves for extra protection. Very flavorful. 65 days from transplants.

Snowball Y Improved: Short season variety. Produces 6” heads surrounded by curled leaves. 65 days from transplants.

Bishop: Adaptable variety. Produces uniform heads with leaves that are self covering. Strong and vigorous plants. 65 days from transplants.



Wednesday, April 10, 2013

How to Grow Celery in the North


Tango Hybrid Celery
Celery is considered a long-season vegetable - meaning it takes a long time to grow to maturity. With that said, northern gardeners looking for a challenge should try and grow it themselves. For the crunchiest and most flavorful stalks, make sure to grow celery under the right conditions and always use transplants or start seeds indoors to accommodate the north’s short growing season.

Celery Information 


Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Apium graveolens var. dulce
Family: Parsley

How to Grow Celery from Seed



  • Start seeds 10-11 weeks before last scheduled frost
  • Fill seed trays or pots ¾" with organic vegetable potting soil
  • Pour seeds into envelope, add 1-2 tablespoons of sand; shake to mix
  • Sprinkle seed mix over seed trays
  • Loosely cover with 1/8” of soil
  • Water lightly
  • Set pots in sunny window
  • When seedlings reach 2-3” tall, thin to 1 seedling per pot
  • Keep seedlings moist until transplanting

How to Grow Celery Outdoors in the North


Growing celery in the north can be a tricky process - sometimes taking a few seasons to get the growing conditions right. Wait until temperatures are steadily 50°F or higher to transplant. Transplanting celery while soil and air temperatures are cool will kill off or stunt the plants.

When: All danger of frost has past and temps are consistently 50°F or higher
Soil: Fertile, well-draining soil. Till 3-4” of compost or composted manure into new beds before transplanting to provide plenty of nutrients
Light: Full-sun to part shade. Celery needs a good 6 hours of light a day
Spacing: 12” apart in rows 18-24” apart
Watering: Keep soil evenly moist - do not let soil dry out. Check plants daily, especially during dry periods
Fertilizing: Add 1-2” of compost/composted manure every 3-4 weeks as plants grow
Weeding: Keep well weeded so weeds don’t compete for water/nutrients
Mulching: Mulch around plants to prevent weeds and keep soil moist

Celery is a very heavy feeder and requires lots of nutrients to grow thick, healthy stalks. Always keep the plants well watered because the plants are not drought resistant. A lack of water will result in woody, thin stalks with little flavor.

Special Tips for Growing Celery


Support: As stalks grow, push soil up around bottom of plants for needed support
Blanching: Place cartons or brown paper bags (no bottoms) over stalks making sure leaves receive sunlight to whiten stalks

How to Harvest Celery


Harvest individual stalks for a longer harvest period or cleanly slice entire plant slightly below ground level with a sharp knife.

How to Store Celery


Store celery for up to a month in the fridge. If stalks go limp, place in a container of cold water to make crunchy again.


Celery Pest and Disease Control



Common Celery Pests


Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).
Snails/Slugs: Set out beer traps to trap slugs and snails. Fill empty tin cans (tuna) ¾ full with beer. Pests will crawl in and drown. Empty traps once a week, replacing bait.
Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in cabbage leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.
Carrot Root Fly: Maggots that feed on roots damaging or killing them. If the carrot root fly is a problem, harvest as soon as vegetables are ready. The Royal Horticultural Society lists several ways to treat carrot root flies organically.

Common Celery Diseases


Early Blight: Common in late summer/early fall. Begins with yellowing of leaves that turn brown in wet weather. Brown stripes may appear on stems.
Late Blight: Common in beginning of growing season. Begins with yellowing of leaves that turn brown. Remove all signs of blight from plants.
Dampening Off: When seedlings fail to emerge due to wet, cool conditions. Keep seedlings well watered but in a warm environment.
Bacterial Leaf Spot: Wet spots on leaves turn from yellow to brown. The main cause of this fungus is failure to remove celery plants from the garden from the previous season.

* Rotating crops is an effective way to help prevent celery diseases. To treat blight organically, try using an organic based copper fungicide.

Pest/Disease Source: Portlandnursery.com


Best Varieties of Celery to Grow in the North


Conquistador: Early variety - good for growing in the north. Produces tall, crisp stalks that are full of flavor. Adapts well. 80 days.

Tango Hybrid: High-yielding. Produces crunchy, sweet stalks ready for harvest 2 weeks earlier than older varieties. Resists Fusariums. 85 days.

Leafy Celery Varieties

Safir Leafy Celery

Safir: Peppery and crisp in taste. Produces abundant, leafy tops and lots of thin stalks. Harvest as needed. 78 days.







Celeriac Varieties


Prinz: High-yielding. Variety produces uniform roots large in size and creamy white in color. 95 days.

Sources: Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds

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Monday, April 8, 2013

5 Gardening Tips for the Month of April


The month of April is a great time to get outdoors and get the garden ready for next month’s planting. I suggest waiting until the garden is thoroughly dry before doing any work to prevent compacting the soil. While waiting for the soil to dry, start your seeds indoors and then head out to clear and till your garden beds.

Tip #1: Clear All Garden Beds


It’s important to clear all garden beds of leaves, branches and debris to allow sunlight to penetrate the soil. This helps warm soil temps, making the ground workable for next month’s planting.

Tip #2: Till Dry Garden Beds Only


If the soil has adequately dried, go ahead and till it. If it’s still wet - probably so at the beginning of April - wait to till until the end of the month for the best results. Dry soil is much easier to work.

Tip #3: Till in Amendments


Again, wait until the soil is dry and till in finished compost or composted manure to give garden beds a boost of nutrients. A few inches is all that is typically needed to replenish the nutrients soaked up during the last growing season. Follow my compost guide on how much compost to add to the garden.

Tip #4: Start Seeds Indoors


In the north, the general rule of thumb is to start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks, sometimes 8-10 weeks for long-season vegetables, before the last scheduled frost. If you haven’t already, get your seeds started now. 

Tip #5: Turn Compost Piles


Don’t forget to give your compost pile some much needed attention after a long winter. Turn it over to allow air to circulate and the sun to reach the areas that are still frozen. April is the time to think about starting a new compost pile for the season or continue to add scraps to last years.

What will you be doing in your garden this April? 

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Friday, April 5, 2013

Types and Varieties of Celery

Tango Hybrid Celery
There are 3 main types of celery and a handful of varieties to choose from. When selecting a variety to grow, consider your USDA zone and how long a growing season you have.

Types of Celery


Celery: Produces long, crunchy stalks green to dark green in color with minimal foliage on top.

Leafy Celery: Produces thin stalks and lots of edible foliage. This type of celery is sometimes called cutting celery.

Celeriac: A root vegetable. Produces large roots which must be peeled before eaten.


Varieties of Differernt Types of Celery

Celery Varieties


Conquistador: Early variety - good for growing in the north. Produces tall, crisp stalks that are full of flavor. Adapts well. 80 days.

Tango Hybrid: High-yielding. Produces crunchy, sweet stalks ready for harvest 2 weeks earlier than older varieties. Resists Fusariums. 85 days.

Utah 52-70: Produces dark green stalks, some up to 12” tall, and strong rooted plants. Adapts well to different climates and soils. 100 days.

Leafy Celery Varieties


Safir Leafy Celery
Safir: Peppery and crisp in taste. Produces abundant, leafy tops and lots of thin stalks. Harvest as needed. 78 days.

Celeriac Varieties


Prinz: High-yielding. Variety produces uniform roots large in size and creamy white in color. 95 days. 

Monarch Celeriac
Monarch: Roots are large, firm and creamy white in color. Has a celery-like taste. Tolerates celery virus very well. 100 days. 

Brilliant: Pale green in color with curly tops. Stores well, up to 3 months. Crisp, refreshing flavor. 105-115 days. 





Sources: Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds


Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Best Types of Celery to Grow in the North

Tango Hybrid Celery

Celery is a great vegetable to try growing, even in the north. Normally, I’d suggest a variety that takes 70 days or less to mature to fit our growing season, but since celery is slow to grow, I did my best to come up with some varieties to try.

Celery Varieties


Conquistador: Early variety - good for growing in the north. Produces tall, crisp stalks that are full of flavor. Adapts well. 80 days.

Tango Hybrid: High-yielding. Produces crunchy, sweet stalks ready for harvest 2 weeks earlier than older varieties. Resists Fusariums. 85 days.

Leafy Celery Varieties

Safir Leafy Celery

Safir: Peppery and crisp in taste. Produces abundant, leafy tops and lots of thin stalks. Harvest as needed. 78 days.







Celeriac Varieties

Monarch Celeriac




Prinz: High-yielding. Variety produces uniform roots large in size and creamy white in color. 95 days.








Sources: Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds

Monday, April 1, 2013

Gibby’s Garden Diary is Back for 2013!


April 1, 2013


The first of April seemed like a good time for Gibby’s Garden to make our first garden diary entry of the year. Despite the foot of snow we had on the first day of spring, it seems like we’ll be on schedule for starting to plant our gardens at the end of the month here in the north.

I’ve already ordered and received most of my seeds and can’t wait to get them in the ground, though I’ll have to be patient as the last of the snow melts and the ground thaws. While I wait until my gardens are workable and ready for some fresh compost and tilling, I’ll be busy making rough sketches of where each of my vegetables are to go.

Until the ground dries up and I can get outside and begin cleaning and working my gardens, there isn’t much else to do but plan, plan, plan and trust me, I have plenty of that to do with the seeds I ordered for this year.


What’s on the List of Vegetables to Plant in 2013?


  • Peas - Northfield
  • Spinach - Tyee
  • Corn - Northern Xtra Sweet Hybrid
  • Beans - Improved Golden Wax/Blue Lake Bush 
  • Beets - Ruby Queen
  • Carrots - Envy Hybrid
  • Chard - Bright Lights
  • Cucumbers - Miss Pickler Hybrid
  • Eggplant - Twilight Hybrid
  • Kohlrabi - Early White Vienna
  • Radish - Mixture
  • Turnips - Purple Top White Globe
  • Squash - Winter Table Ace Hybrid


These are the seeds I plan on planting to give myself a wide array of vegetables to work with and enjoy in 2013. Stay tuned to find out which seedlings and their varieties I’ll be picking up at my favorite nursery in another month or so. Until then, happy garden planting and please don’t forget to stop by occasionally for more garden diary updates.




Friday, March 29, 2013

How to Grow Carrots in the North

Tendersnax Carrots

Carrots are easy to grow in the north under the right conditions. The keys to doing this successfully are to choose the right variety of carrot to fit the growing season and provide them with the right type of soil. It’s also important to water and fertilize correctly as well as watching out for certain pests and diseases.

Carrot Information


Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Daucus carota
Genus: Parsley Family

How to Grow Carrots


When: Plant as soon as soil temps have warmed above 55 degrees and all danger of frost has passed.

Light: Full sun to light shade.

Soil Type: A mix of sandy/loamy soil that is loose and well-draining. Soil should be free of stones and clumps.

Sowing: Direct sow seeds and thin to 1” apart when seedlings first appear. Thin again to 2-3” apart when seedlings are about 1” tall.

Spacing: ¼” deep in rows 16-18” apart.

Watering: 1” of water per week. Keep soil evenly moist with a deep soaking. Test soil up to 4” deep for dryness before watering.

Fertilization: Use fertilizers rich in potassium or year old manure when carrot tops have reached 3" in height.

Mulching: Once carrots reach 3-4” in height, mulch around and between rows to help retain moisture and discourage weeds.

Care: Cultivate lightly around carrots to keep weeds to a minimum, making sure not to disturb the roots. If the tops of carrots emerge before they are ready to be harvested, gently cover them with loose soil or mulch to keep them from turning green.

Additional Carrot Growing Information


It’s important to give carrots loose soil to grow in to keep them from forking. Forking is when the roots branch out instead of forming one solid, tapered root.

Carrot Pest and Disease Control


Carrot Root Fly: Maggots that feed on roots damaging or killing them. If the carrot root fly is a problem, harvest as soon as carrots are ready. The Royal Horticultural Society lists several ways to treat carrot root flies organically.

Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in cabbage leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.

Forked Roots: Amend soil so it is loose and well-draining to prevent forked roots.

Excess Tops and No Roots: Lots of green tops and little or no roots are typically caused by too much nitrogen in the soil. To prevent this, conduct a home soil test that can be picked up at lawn and garden centers and amend the soil accordingly. Also, make sure to thin seedlings, giving them ample room to grow.

How to Harvest Carrots


Always consult the back of seed packets for average days to maturity at which time carrots will be ready to harvest. Most varieties will show their tops when ready for harvest. Grab the greens as close to the tops as possible and twist and pull, gently shaking the carrot while doing so.

Storage and Preservation Tips


Mature carrots can be left in the ground for storage as long as the ground doesn’t freeze. Eat carrots fresh, store in a dry root cellar, or can or blanch and freeze for later use.


Best Varieties of Carrots to Grow in the North


Nelson Hybrid: Nantes type. Extra-early variety. Almost coreless and dark orange in color. Smooth and straight roots. Does not taper. 58 days.

Rainbow Blend: Mix of purple, white, red & yellow carrots. Each has it’s own taste and texture. Exciting variety to grow with kids. 58-65 days.

Yaya Hybrid: 6” long blunt tipped roots. High-yielding variety. Crunchy and sweet. Holds well in the garden. 60 days.

Little Finger
Little Finger: 4” long baby variety. Crisp and juicy. Dark orange in color. Resists tapering. 60 days.

Organic Nantes: 6-7” roots bright orange in color. Sweet, tender and crisp. Slices well. Early variety. 62 days.

Scarlet Nantes: 6” long and almost coreless. Early variety sweet in flavor. Makes a great fresh snack. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid: 8-14” long. Extra-large variety. Tender and juicy. Great for juicing or cooking. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid
Envy Hybrid: 12” cylindrical roots. Top fresh-eating carrot variety. Grows fast even in poor or clay soils. 66 days.

Sugarsnax Hybrid: 9-11” long and very sweet in flavor. Cans and freezes well. A good variety for the north. 68 days.

Tendersnax Hybrid: 5-6” long with blunt tips. Ultra-sweet variety. Very juicy and tender. Disease resistant. 68 days.

Chantenay Red Core: 5 ½” long. Great for small gardens or containers. High-yielding variety. Orange-red in color throughout. 68 days.

Purple Haze: Rich purple in color with bright orange core. Sweet and strong in flavor. Vigorous variety. Easy to grow. 70 days.


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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Gardening Tips for the Month of March


March is finally here after a long winter in the north. If you’re as excited as I am to get outside and get to gardening, there are a few things you should do first while the ground continues to warm up. Before heading outside, get your gardening tools in order, making sure they are clean, sharp and ready to use.

5 Must-Do Gardening Tips for March


Tip #1: Let the Ground Dry Up


If you live in the north, wait until the snow melts and the ground dries up before tramping all over the garden. Repeatedly walking on wet soil makes it compact and much more difficult to till, especially by hand.

Tip #2: Pick up Debris


After a long winter there’s bound to be some branches, twigs and trash that migrated into the garden. Pick these up and dispose of them in the proper place. Start a mini brush pile and add small twigs to the compost.

Tip #3: Rake, Rake, Rake


I like to wait until the end of March and sometimes April to rake out my garden beds. This way if a hard freeze hits any areas that have perennials, they’ll be well insulated with leaves. Once the leaves are removed, sunlight hits the garden directly, helping to steadily warm soil temperatures.

Tip #4: Add Finished Compost/Composted Manure to the Garden


I like to amend the soil in my garden as soon as possible. Now, since I live in the north and the ground isn’t always completely thawed in March, I sometime have to wait until the following month to till it into the soil. I never use man made fertilizers, only compost and year-old manure to keep my garden as organic as possible.

Tip #5: Give Attention to the Compost Pile


Give the compost a good turning, making sure to work the inside of the pile out. This helps to circulate air, speeding up the decomposition process. It also helps to de-compact the pile which settled over the winter. March is the perfect time to start a new compost pile for the year.

327767_MANTIS COMPOSTERS PAGE - 180 x 150

If you haven’t already, March is a good time to order your seeds and plan your garden. I typically know which of my vegetables are going to go where, but actually standing in the garden gives me a better prospective on where things should go.

Do you have any March gardening tips to share? 

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Friday, March 22, 2013

Types and Varieties of Carrots


There are 5 main types of carrots which, for the most part, are defined by their average length and other characteristics. When growing carrots, keep in mind that environmental factors such as soil type and moisture effect how well carrots grow, including their size. Always grow a variety that is suitable to the length of the growing season.

Types of Carrots


Baby Carrots: Up to 5” cylindrical, tapered or round roots. Short storage life. Spring 50-60 days, fall - 60-70 days to maturity.

Nantes: 5-7” cylindrical roots. Short storage life. Spring - 55-70 days, fall - 60-75 days to maturity.

Chantenay: 5-6" long medium-light orange roots with red cores. Broad shouldered with rounded roots. Spring - 55-70 days, fall - 70-110 days to maturity.

Imperator: 7-8” long with tapered roots and wide shoulders. Spring - 55-100 days, fall - 80-110 days to maturity.

Danvers: Up to 7” long. Thick, cylindrical roots. Good for juicing, freezing and preserving. Spring - 70-80 days, fall - 80-110 days to maturity.

Sources: growit.umd.edu - mothearthnews.com

Varieties of Carrots


Rainbow Blend: Mix of purple, white, red & yellow carrots. Each has it’s own taste and texture. Exciting variety to grow with kids. 58-65 days.

Nelson Hybrid: Nantes type. Extra-early variety. Almost coreless and dark orange in color. Smooth and straight roots. Does not taper. 58 days.

Yaya Hybrid: 6” long blunt tipped roots. High-yielding variety. Crunchy and sweet. Holds well in the garden. 60 days.

Little Finger: 4” long baby variety. Crisp and juicy. Dark orange in color. Resists tapering. 60 days.

Organic Nantes
Organic Nantes: 6-7” and bright orange in color. Sweet, tender and crisp. Slices well. Early variety. 62 days.

Scarlet Nantes: 6” and almost coreless. Early variety sweet in flavor. Makes a great fresh snack. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid: 8-14” long. Extra-large variety. Tender and juicy. Great for juicing or cooking. 65 days.

Envy Hybrid: 12” cylindrical roots. Top fresh eating carrot variety. Grows fast even in poor or clay soils. 66 days.

Sugarsnax Hybrid: 9-11” long and very sweet in flavor. Cans and freezes well. A good variety for the north. 68 days.

Tendersnax Hybrid: 5-6” long with blunt tips. Ultra-sweet variety. Very juicy and tender. Disease resistant. 68 days.

Chantenay Red Core: 5 ½” long. Great for small gardens or containers. High-yielding variety. Orange-red in color throughout. 68 days.

Purple Haze: Rich purple in color with bright orange core. Sweet and strong in flavor. Vigorous variety. Easy to grow. 70 days.

Danvers 126: 7” long wide-topped roots. Good variety to grow in dense soils. Sweet and tender. 73 days.

Danvers Half Long: Medium-yield variety. 6-7 ½” long with blocky tops and chunky roots. Stores well. Can be grown in clay soils. 75 days.

Tendersweet: 7” long with tapered roots. One of the sweetest carrot varieties. Easy grower. 75 days.

Atomic Red Carrots
Atomic Red: 8-11” long tapered roots pink in color that turn scarlet after cooking. Tasty and nutritious variety. 75 days.

Atlas: 4” baby carrot. Good for containers and small gardens. Sweet in taste with lots of moisture. 75 days.

Imperator 58: 8-9” long thin, tapered roots. Full of flavor. Popular store variety. All-American Selections winner. 75 days.

Purple Haze Hybrid: 8-10” long with purple skin and bright orange flesh sweet in taste. All-America Selections winner. 90 days.

Royal Chantenay: Up to 6” long. Keeps flavor. Broad and hardy variety. 100 days.

Sources: Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Best Varieties of Carrots to Grow in the North





Nelson Hybrid
The north is a great place to grow carrots. To ensure they have enough time to grow, it’s best to plant an early variety. Early varieties are those that take 70 days or less to mature, giving northern gardeners plenty to choose from.

Nelson Hybrid: Nantes type. Extra-early variety. Almost coreless and dark orange in color. Smooth and straight roots. Does not taper. 58 days.

Rainbow Blend: Mix of purple, white, red & yellow carrots. Each has it’s own taste and texture. Exciting variety to grow with kids. 58-65 days.

Yaya Hybrid: 6” long blunt tipped roots. High-yielding variety. Crunchy and sweet. Holds well in the garden. 60 days.

Little Finger
Little Finger: 4” long baby variety. Crisp and juicy. Dark orange in color. Resists tapering. 60 days.

Organic Nantes: 6-7” roots bright orange in color. Sweet, tender and crisp. Slices well. Early variety. 62 days.

Scarlet Nantes: 6” long and almost coreless. Early variety sweet in flavor. Makes a great fresh snack. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid: 8-14” long. Extra-large variety. Tender and juicy. Great for juicing or cooking. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid
Envy Hybrid: 12” cylindrical roots. Top fresh-eating carrot variety. Grows fast even in poor or clay soils. 66 days.

Sugarsnax Hybrid: 9-11” long and very sweet in flavor. Cans and freezes well. A good variety for the north. 68 days.

Tendersnax Hybrid: 5-6” long with blunt tips. Ultra-sweet variety. Very juicy and tender. Disease resistant. 68 days.

Chantenay Red Core: 5 ½” long. Great for small gardens or containers. High-yielding variety. Orange-red in color throughout. 68 days.

Purple Haze
Purple Haze: Rich purple in color with bright orange core. Sweet and strong in flavor. Vigorous variety. Easy to grow. 70 days.



Monday, March 18, 2013

What’s New for Gibby’s Garden in Spring 2013


As I pondered what to write about here at Gibby’s Garden today, I was hit with a forecast calling for 12-14 inches of snow the day before the start of spring. Though I’d much rather have lots of sunshine and warmer days,  there is still much to do before heading out and planting my garden in the upcoming months.

For starters, I ordered my seeds a few days ago to ensure the varieties of vegetables I wanted would still be in stock. I also decided which vegetables I’d grow from seed and which transplants I’d buy from my local nursery. I plan on canning my own tomato sauce this year so I decided to forgo starting my own tomatoes indoors and instead will buy transplants.

While patiently waiting for spring to settle in, I also thought a lot about companion planting as a way to save space in my ever expanding garden. This year my peas will be planted with my corn so they can use the cornstalks as a natural trellis and my lettuce will be planted with my tomatoes as an edible groundcover and another way to keep the weeds down.

I’m not exactly sure where all the vegetables in my garden are going to go yet, but seeing as I still have some time, I’m going to take my time planning as I figure in crop rotation, companion planting and which vegetables might block the sun from others if planted in the wrong spot.

As I plan my garden this spring, I thought I’d pass a long a few tips to help you plant yours.


  • Choose bush varieties for containers and small gardens
  • Companion plant to save on space (grouping 2 or more vegetables together that don’t compete for nutrients/space etc.
  • Rotate crops from last year
  • Choose varieties to fit the growing season (days to maturity)
  • Consider plant height and space needed to grow
  • Consider succession planting (plant early and late varieties of the same vegetable to extend the growing season)

I use these tips to plan my garden every year. If you have any tips on saving time, space or money or garden planning tips in general, please feel free to share them below. 

Friday, March 15, 2013

How to Grow Cabbage in the North

Tropic Giant

Cabbage is a must-try vegetable, even in the north. Not only can it be eaten fresh in many ways, it can be canned, and depending on the variety, stores well in the root cellar. Growing cabbage in the north is pretty straight-forward under the right conditions. Choose an early variety and use transplants or start seeds indoors.

Cabbage Information


Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Brassica oleracea var. capitata
Genus: Cruciferous Family

How to Start Cabbage Indoors in the North


When: In the north, start cabbage seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Harden off seedlings before transplanting them to the garden when all chances of frost have passed.

Supplies Needed


  • Seed Pots or Starter Trays
  • Loam/ Fertile Potting Soil
  • Cabbage Seeds
  • Spray Bottle w/Water

Fill pots ¾ full with potting soil
  • Place 2-3 seeds in each pot
  • Top seeds with ¼-½ inch of soil
  • Lightly spray with water
  • Place trays in warm area that receives natural sunlight 


How to Grow Cabbage from Transplants in the North


Cabbage is a heavy feeder and thrives in fertile, moist soil. To add nutrients to the soil organically, amend the soil with ½ inch finished compost or composted manure. Remember to rotate all crops to help prevent disease and a pest infestation.

When: After last frost date, typically mid April to Mid May in the north

Light: Full sun

Soil Type: Fertile, well draining

Spacing: 12-18 inches apart in rows 18-36 inches apart

Watering: Keep soil moist - about ½ inch of water a week

Fertilization: Work finished compost or composted manure into soil half way though growing season

Weeding: Gently cultivate around cabbage plants making sure not to sever roots. Mulch around plants to keep soil moist and prevent weeds

Care: Too prevent cabbage heads from splitting, plant a split resistant variety or sever a few roots when heads near maturity. Heads will stop growing but remain alive

Controlling Cabbage Diseases and Pests


Cabbage Worms/Loopers: Look for green worms and white cocoons. Handpick all worms and cocoons, drowning in soapy water. Use floating row covers to prevent pests.

Cabbage Cutworms: 1 ½ inch long striped/mottled caterpillars green, gray or brown in color. These pests chew through stems at ground level. Cover young transplants with floating row covers or burry cardboard collars around transplant stems at least 1-2 inches below soil level.

Cabbage Root Maggot: Caused by a fly laying eggs in cracks at the base of the plant or in nearby soil. Eggs hatch into maggots that feed on roots and stems. Cover young transplants with floating row covers.

Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in cabbage leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

Slugs and Snails: Set out beer traps to trap slugs and snails. Fill empty tin cans (tuna) ¾ full with beer. Pests will crawl in and drown. Empty traps once a week, replacing bait.

Downy Mildew: Look for yellow patches on leaves. Mildew is typically caused by too much moistness. Avoid spraying cabbage heads when watering. Plant downy mildew resistant varieties.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all cabbage roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

Note: Cabbage is susceptible to fusarium wilt, black rot, bacterial soft rot, alternaria leaf spot and sclerotinia rot. Always plant disease resistant varieties when possible. For more information on these diseases and how to identify and treat them, check out essentialgardenguide.com.

How to Harvest Cabbage


Cabbage is ready for harvesting when the heads are dense and firm. Cleanly slice cabbage at the base of its stem. Always harvest before heads split to prevent disease and pests from taking over. Split cabbage can still be harvested and eaten.


Cabbage Blend

Varieties of Cabbage to Grow in the North



Seeing as the north has a short growing season, the best varieties of cabbage to grow are those that are 70 days to maturity or less. Always start seeds indoors or use locally bought transplants which are suitable for growing in their area.

Green Cabbage Varieties


Golden Acre: Early variety. Produces 3-4 inch heads on compact plants. Heads are solid with sweet, crisp greens. Disease resistant. 58 days.

Farao: Early variety. Produces 3-4 pound heads peppery-sweet in taste. Leaves are thin and crisp. Resists thrips. 64 days.

Stonehead Hybrid: Produces 4-6 pound heads which are very compact. Tight heads have short cores. Resists yellowing and black rot. 67 days.

Copenhagen: High-yielding variety. Produces heads up to 8 inches across. Heads are solid and keep well. 70 days.


Red Cabbage Varieties


Red Express: Extra-early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads on compact plants. High in flavor. Resists cracking. Recommended for the north.

Red Acre: Produces 7 inch heads about 3 pounds in weight. Heads are reddish-purple in color and tightly packed. Resists cabbage yellowing. 65 days.

Savoy Cabbage Varieties


Savoy Express Hybrid: Extra-early variety. Produces small heads about a pound in size. Great texture and flavor. Compact variety great for small gardens. 55 days.

Autumn Jewel: Savoy-type variety. Produces large heads surrounded by pretty greens. Stores well and winter hardy. Not as compact as green cabbage varieties. 70 days.


Chinese Cabbage Varieties


Kaboko Hybrid Cabbage
Pak Choi: White stem variety. Produces thick white stems and loose, green leaves. Leaves are mild in flavor. Hearty and cold resistant. Great variety for the north. 45 days.

Kaboko Hybrid: Produces 16 inch tall and 12 inch wide heads green and white in color. Harvest entire cabbage heads or leaf by leaf. Super sweet in flavor. Disease resistant. 59 days.

Wa Wa Tsai Hybrid: Produces 10-18 ounce tender heads that are sweet in flavor. Great for small gardens. 60 days.

Mini Cabbage Varieties 


Caraflex Cabbage
Gonzales: Produces 4-6 inch heads. Heads are compact and uniform in size with sweet and spicy leaves. Great variety for small gardens. 66 days.

Caraflex: Produces cone-shaped cabbages uniform in size. Mini heads have tender inner leaves great for slaw and salads. 68 days.

List of Cabbage Types and Varieties

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 


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