How to Grow Carrots in the North

Tendersnax Carrots

Carrots are easy to grow in the north under the right conditions. The keys to doing this successfully are to choose the right variety of carrot to fit the growing season and provide them with the right type of soil. It’s also important to water and fertilize correctly as well as watching out for certain pests and diseases.

Carrot Information

Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Daucus carota
Genus: Parsley Family

How to Grow Carrots

When: Plant as soon as soil temps have warmed above 55 degrees and all danger of frost has passed.

Light: Full sun to light shade.

Soil Type: A mix of sandy/loamy soil that is loose and well-draining. Soil should be free of stones and clumps.

Sowing: Direct sow seeds and thin to 1” apart when seedlings first appear. Thin again to 2-3” apart when seedlings are about 1” tall.

Spacing: ¼” deep in rows 16-18” apart.

Watering: 1” of water per week. Keep soil evenly moist with a deep soaking. Test soil up to 4” deep for dryness before watering.

Fertilization: Use fertilizers rich in potassium or year old manure when carrot tops have reached 3" in height.

Mulching: Once carrots reach 3-4” in height, mulch around and between rows to help retain moisture and discourage weeds.

Care: Cultivate lightly around carrots to keep weeds to a minimum, making sure not to disturb the roots. If the tops of carrots emerge before they are ready to be harvested, gently cover them with loose soil or mulch to keep them from turning green.

Additional Carrot Growing Information

It’s important to give carrots loose soil to grow in to keep them from forking. Forking is when the roots branch out instead of forming one solid, tapered root.

Carrot Pest and Disease Control

Carrot Root Fly: Maggots that feed on roots damaging or killing them. If the carrot root fly is a problem, harvest as soon as carrots are ready. The Royal Horticultural Society lists several ways to treat carrot root flies organically.

Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in cabbage leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.

Forked Roots: Amend soil so it is loose and well-draining to prevent forked roots.

Excess Tops and No Roots: Lots of green tops and little or no roots are typically caused by too much nitrogen in the soil. To prevent this, conduct a home soil test that can be picked up at lawn and garden centers and amend the soil accordingly. Also, make sure to thin seedlings, giving them ample room to grow.

How to Harvest Carrots

Always consult the back of seed packets for average days to maturity at which time carrots will be ready to harvest. Most varieties will show their tops when ready for harvest. Grab the greens as close to the tops as possible and twist and pull, gently shaking the carrot while doing so.

Storage and Preservation Tips

Mature carrots can be left in the ground for storage as long as the ground doesn’t freeze. Eat carrots fresh, store in a dry root cellar, or can or blanch and freeze for later use.

Best Varieties of Carrots to Grow in the North

Nelson Hybrid: Nantes type. Extra-early variety. Almost coreless and dark orange in color. Smooth and straight roots. Does not taper. 58 days.

Rainbow Blend: Mix of purple, white, red & yellow carrots. Each has it’s own taste and texture. Exciting variety to grow with kids. 58-65 days.

Yaya Hybrid: 6” long blunt tipped roots. High-yielding variety. Crunchy and sweet. Holds well in the garden. 60 days.

Little Finger

Little Finger: 4” long baby variety. Crisp and juicy. Dark orange in color. Resists tapering. 60 days.

Organic Nantes: 6-7” roots bright orange in color. Sweet, tender and crisp. Slices well. Early variety. 62 days.

Scarlet Nantes: 6” long and almost coreless. Early variety sweet in flavor. Makes a great fresh snack. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid: 8-14” long. Extra-large variety. Tender and juicy. Great for juicing or cooking. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid

Envy Hybrid: 12” cylindrical roots. Top fresh-eating carrot variety. Grows fast even in poor or clay soils. 66 days.

Sugarsnax Hybrid: 9-11” long and very sweet in flavor. Cans and freezes well. A good variety for the north. 68 days.

Tendersnax Hybrid: 5-6” long with blunt tips. Ultra-sweet variety. Very juicy and tender. Disease resistant. 68 days.

Chantenay Red Core: 5 ½” long. Great for small gardens or containers. High-yielding variety. Orange-red in color throughout. 68 days.

Purple Haze: Rich purple in color with bright orange core. Sweet and strong in flavor. Vigorous variety. Easy to grow. 70 days.

Related Articles

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Gardening Tips for the Month of March

March is finally here after a long winter in the north. If you’re as excited as I am to get outside and get to gardening, there are a few things you should do first while the ground continues to warm up. Before heading outside, get your gardening tools in order, making sure they are clean, sharp and ready to use.

5 Must-Do Gardening Tips for March

Tip #1: Let the Ground Dry Up

If you live in the north, wait until the snow melts and the ground dries up before tramping all over the garden. Repeatedly walking on wet soil makes it compact and much more difficult to till, especially by hand.

Tip #2: Pick up Debris

After a long winter there’s bound to be some branches, twigs and trash that migrated into the garden. Pick these up and dispose of them in the proper place. Start a mini brush pile and add small twigs to the compost.

Tip #3: Rake, Rake, Rake

I like to wait until the end of March and sometimes April to rake out my garden beds. This way if a hard freeze hits any areas that have perennials, they’ll be well insulated with leaves. Once the leaves are removed, sunlight hits the garden directly, helping to steadily warm soil temperatures.

Tip #4: Add Finished Compost/Composted Manure to the Garden

I like to amend the soil in my garden as soon as possible. Now, since I live in the north and the ground isn’t always completely thawed in March, I sometime have to wait until the following month to till it into the soil. I never use man made fertilizers, only compost and year-old manure to keep my garden as organic as possible.

Tip #5: Give Attention to the Compost Pile

Give the compost a good turning, making sure to work the inside of the pile out. This helps to circulate air, speeding up the decomposition process. It also helps to de-compact the pile which settled over the winter. March is the perfect time to start a new compost pile for the year.

If you haven’t already, March is a good time to order your seeds and plan your garden. I typically know which of my vegetables are going to go where, but actually standing in the garden gives me a better prospective on where things should go.

Do you have any March gardening tips to share? 

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Types and Varieties of Carrots

There are 5 main types of carrots which, for the most part, are defined by their average length and other characteristics. When growing carrots, keep in mind that environmental factors such as soil type and moisture effect how well carrots grow, including their size. Always grow a variety that is suitable to the length of the growing season.

Types of Carrots

Baby Carrots: Up to 5” cylindrical, tapered or round roots. Short storage life. Spring 50-60 days, fall - 60-70 days to maturity.

Nantes: 5-7” cylindrical roots. Short storage life. Spring - 55-70 days, fall - 60-75 days to maturity.

Chantenay: 5-6" long medium-light orange roots with red cores. Broad shouldered with rounded roots. Spring - 55-70 days, fall - 70-110 days to maturity.

Imperator: 7-8” long with tapered roots and wide shoulders. Spring - 55-100 days, fall - 80-110 days to maturity.

Danvers: Up to 7” long. Thick, cylindrical roots. Good for juicing, freezing and preserving. Spring - 70-80 days, fall - 80-110 days to maturity.

Sources: growit.umd.edu - mothearthnews.com

Varieties of Carrots

Rainbow Blend: Mix of purple, white, red & yellow carrots. Each has it’s own taste and texture. Exciting variety to grow with kids. 58-65 days.

Nelson Hybrid: Nantes type. Extra-early variety. Almost coreless and dark orange in color. Smooth and straight roots. Does not taper. 58 days.

Yaya Hybrid: 6” long blunt tipped roots. High-yielding variety. Crunchy and sweet. Holds well in the garden. 60 days.

Little Finger: 4” long baby variety. Crisp and juicy. Dark orange in color. Resists tapering. 60 days.

Organic Nantes

Organic Nantes: 6-7” and bright orange in color. Sweet, tender and crisp. Slices well. Early variety. 62 days.

Scarlet Nantes: 6” and almost coreless. Early variety sweet in flavor. Makes a great fresh snack. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid: 8-14” long. Extra-large variety. Tender and juicy. Great for juicing or cooking. 65 days.

Envy Hybrid: 12” cylindrical roots. Top fresh eating carrot variety. Grows fast even in poor or clay soils. 66 days.

Sugarsnax Hybrid: 9-11” long and very sweet in flavor. Cans and freezes well. A good variety for the north. 68 days.

Tendersnax Hybrid: 5-6” long with blunt tips. Ultra-sweet variety. Very juicy and tender. Disease resistant. 68 days.

Chantenay Red Core: 5 ½” long. Great for small gardens or containers. High-yielding variety. Orange-red in color throughout. 68 days.

Purple Haze: Rich purple in color with bright orange core. Sweet and strong in flavor. Vigorous variety. Easy to grow. 70 days.

Danvers 126: 7” long wide-topped roots. Good variety to grow in dense soils. Sweet and tender. 73 days.

Danvers Half Long: Medium-yield variety. 6-7 ½” long with blocky tops and chunky roots. Stores well. Can be grown in clay soils. 75 days.

Tendersweet: 7” long with tapered roots. One of the sweetest carrot varieties. Easy grower. 75 days.

Atomic Red Carrots

Atomic Red: 8-11” long tapered roots pink in color that turn scarlet after cooking. Tasty and nutritious variety. 75 days.

Atlas: 4” baby carrot. Good for containers and small gardens. Sweet in taste with lots of moisture. 75 days.

Imperator 58: 8-9” long thin, tapered roots. Full of flavor. Popular store variety. All-American Selections winner. 75 days.

Purple Haze Hybrid: 8-10” long with purple skin and bright orange flesh sweet in taste. All-America Selections winner. 90 days.

Royal Chantenay: Up to 6” long. Keeps flavor. Broad and hardy variety. 100 days.

Sources: Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Best Varieties of Carrots to Grow in the North

Nelson Hybrid

The north is a great place to grow carrots. To ensure they have enough time to grow, it’s best to plant an early variety. Early varieties are those that take 70 days or less to mature, giving northern gardeners plenty to choose from.

Nelson Hybrid: Nantes type. Extra-early variety. Almost coreless and dark orange in color. Smooth and straight roots. Does not taper. 58 days.

Rainbow Blend: Mix of purple, white, red & yellow carrots. Each has it’s own taste and texture. Exciting variety to grow with kids. 58-65 days.

Yaya Hybrid: 6” long blunt tipped roots. High-yielding variety. Crunchy and sweet. Holds well in the garden. 60 days.

Little Finger

Little Finger: 4” long baby variety. Crisp and juicy. Dark orange in color. Resists tapering. 60 days.

Organic Nantes: 6-7” roots bright orange in color. Sweet, tender and crisp. Slices well. Early variety. 62 days.

Scarlet Nantes: 6” long and almost coreless. Early variety sweet in flavor. Makes a great fresh snack. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid: 8-14” long. Extra-large variety. Tender and juicy. Great for juicing or cooking. 65 days.

Nandrin Hybrid

Envy Hybrid: 12” cylindrical roots. Top fresh-eating carrot variety. Grows fast even in poor or clay soils. 66 days.

Sugarsnax Hybrid: 9-11” long and very sweet in flavor. Cans and freezes well. A good variety for the north. 68 days.

Tendersnax Hybrid: 5-6” long with blunt tips. Ultra-sweet variety. Very juicy and tender. Disease resistant. 68 days.

Chantenay Red Core: 5 ½” long. Great for small gardens or containers. High-yielding variety. Orange-red in color throughout. 68 days.

Purple Haze

Purple Haze: Rich purple in color with bright orange core. Sweet and strong in flavor. Vigorous variety. Easy to grow. 70 days.

What’s New for Gibby’s Garden in Spring 2013

As I pondered what to write about here at Gibby’s Garden today, I was hit with a forecast calling for 12-14 inches of snow the day before the start of spring. Though I’d much rather have lots of sunshine and warmer days,  there is still much to do before heading out and planting my garden in the upcoming months.

For starters, I ordered my seeds a few days ago to ensure the varieties of vegetables I wanted would still be in stock. I also decided which vegetables I’d grow from seed and which transplants I’d buy from my local nursery. I plan on canning my own tomato sauce this year so I decided to forgo starting my own tomatoes indoors and instead will buy transplants.

While patiently waiting for spring to settle in, I also thought a lot about companion planting as a way to save space in my ever expanding garden. This year my peas will be planted with my corn so they can use the cornstalks as a natural trellis and my lettuce will be planted with my tomatoes as an edible groundcover and another way to keep the weeds down.

I’m not exactly sure where all the vegetables in my garden are going to go yet, but seeing as I still have some time, I’m going to take my time planning as I figure in crop rotation, companion planting and which vegetables might block the sun from others if planted in the wrong spot.

As I plan my garden this spring, I thought I’d pass a long a few tips to help you plant yours.

• Choose bush varieties for containers and small gardens
• Companion plant to save on space (grouping 2 or more vegetables together that don’t compete for nutrients/space etc.
• Rotate crops from last year
• Choose varieties to fit the growing season (days to maturity)
• Consider plant height and space needed to grow
• Consider succession planting (plant early and late varieties of the same vegetable to extend the growing season)

I use these tips to plan my garden every year. If you have any tips on saving time, space or money or garden planning tips in general, please feel free to share them below. 

Tips on Companion Planting

How to Grow Cabbage in the North

Tropic Giant

Cabbage is a must-try vegetable, even in the north. Not only can it be eaten fresh in many ways, it can be canned, and depending on the variety, stores well in the root cellar. Growing cabbage in the north is pretty straight-forward under the right conditions. Choose an early variety and use transplants or start seeds indoors.

Cabbage Information

Vegetable Type: Annual
Name: Brassica oleracea var. capitata
Genus: Cruciferous Family

How to Start Cabbage Indoors in the North

When: In the north, start cabbage seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Harden off seedlings before transplanting them to the garden when all chances of frost have passed.

Supplies Needed

• Seed Pots or Starter Trays
• Loam/ Fertile Potting Soil
• Cabbage Seeds
• Spray Bottle w/Water

Fill pots ¾ full with potting soil

• Place 2-3 seeds in each pot
• Top seeds with ¼-½ inch of soil
• Lightly spray with water
• Place trays in warm area that receives natural sunlight 

How to Grow Cabbage from Transplants in the North

Cabbage is a heavy feeder and thrives in fertile, moist soil. To add nutrients to the soil organically, amend the soil with ½ inch finished compost or composted manure. Remember to rotate all crops to help prevent disease and a pest infestation.

When: After last frost date, typically mid April to Mid May in the north

Light: Full sun

Soil Type: Fertile, well draining

Spacing: 12-18 inches apart in rows 18-36 inches apart

Watering: Keep soil moist - about ½ inch of water a week

Fertilization: Work finished compost or composted manure into soil half way though growing season

Weeding: Gently cultivate around cabbage plants making sure not to sever roots. Mulch around plants to keep soil moist and prevent weeds

Care: Too prevent cabbage heads from splitting, plant a split resistant variety or sever a few roots when heads near maturity. Heads will stop growing but remain alive

Controlling Cabbage Diseases and Pests

Cabbage Worms/Loopers: Look for green worms and white cocoons. Handpick all worms and cocoons, drowning in soapy water. Use floating row covers to prevent pests.

Cabbage Cutworms: 1 ½ inch long striped/mottled caterpillars green, gray or brown in color. These pests chew through stems at ground level. Cover young transplants with floating row covers or burry cardboard collars around transplant stems at least 1-2 inches below soil level.

Cabbage Root Maggot: Caused by a fly laying eggs in cracks at the base of the plant or in nearby soil. Eggs hatch into maggots that feed on roots and stems. Cover young transplants with floating row covers.

Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in cabbage leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

Slugs and Snails: Set out beer traps to trap slugs and snails. Fill empty tin cans (tuna) ¾ full with beer. Pests will crawl in and drown. Empty traps once a week, replacing bait.

Downy Mildew: Look for yellow patches on leaves. Mildew is typically caused by too much moistness. Avoid spraying cabbage heads when watering. Plant downy mildew resistant varieties.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all cabbage roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

Note: Cabbage is susceptible to fusarium wilt, black rot, bacterial soft rot, alternaria leaf spot and sclerotinia rot. Always plant disease resistant varieties when possible. For more information on these diseases and how to identify and treat them, check out essentialgardenguide.com.

How to Harvest Cabbage

Cabbage is ready for harvesting when the heads are dense and firm. Cleanly slice cabbage at the base of its stem. Always harvest before heads split to prevent disease and pests from taking over. Split cabbage can still be harvested and eaten.

Cabbage Blend

Varieties of Cabbage to Grow in the North

Seeing as the north has a short growing season, the best varieties of cabbage to grow are those that are 70 days to maturity or less. Always start seeds indoors or use locally bought transplants which are suitable for growing in their area.

Green Cabbage Varieties

Golden Acre: Early variety. Produces 3-4 inch heads on compact plants. Heads are solid with sweet, crisp greens. Disease resistant. 58 days.

Farao: Early variety. Produces 3-4 pound heads peppery-sweet in taste. Leaves are thin and crisp. Resists thrips. 64 days.

Stonehead Hybrid: Produces 4-6 pound heads which are very compact. Tight heads have short cores. Resists yellowing and black rot. 67 days.

Copenhagen: High-yielding variety. Produces heads up to 8 inches across. Heads are solid and keep well. 70 days.

Red Cabbage Varieties

Red Express: Extra-early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads on compact plants. High in flavor. Resists cracking. Recommended for the north.

Red Acre: Produces 7 inch heads about 3 pounds in weight. Heads are reddish-purple in color and tightly packed. Resists cabbage yellowing. 65 days.

Savoy Cabbage Varieties

Savoy Express Hybrid: Extra-early variety. Produces small heads about a pound in size. Great texture and flavor. Compact variety great for small gardens. 55 days.

Autumn Jewel: Savoy-type variety. Produces large heads surrounded by pretty greens. Stores well and winter hardy. Not as compact as green cabbage varieties. 70 days.

Chinese Cabbage Varieties

Kaboko Hybrid Cabbage

Pak Choi: White stem variety. Produces thick white stems and loose, green leaves. Leaves are mild in flavor. Hearty and cold resistant. Great variety for the north. 45 days.

Kaboko Hybrid: Produces 16 inch tall and 12 inch wide heads green and white in color. Harvest entire cabbage heads or leaf by leaf. Super sweet in flavor. Disease resistant. 59 days.

Wa Wa Tsai Hybrid: Produces 10-18 ounce tender heads that are sweet in flavor. Great for small gardens. 60 days.

Mini Cabbage Varieties 

Caraflex Cabbage

Gonzales: Produces 4-6 inch heads. Heads are compact and uniform in size with sweet and spicy leaves. Great variety for small gardens. 66 days.

Caraflex: Produces cone-shaped cabbages uniform in size. Mini heads have tender inner leaves great for slaw and salads. 68 days.

List of Cabbage Types and Varieties

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 


Related Articles

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Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)
How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables

Types and Varieties of Cabbage

Gonzales Cabbage

Types of Cabbage

Green Cabbage: Green cabbage forms heads of different sizes with green outer leaves that typically get lighter near the core of the cabbage. Almost the entire heads are edible, except the core, and work well in main dishes as well as raw in slaws and salads.

Red Cabbage: Red cabbage is similar to green cabbage only it's reddish-purple in color. Red cabbage has a bolder flavor than green and makes a striking contrast in color.

Savoy Cabbage: Savoy cabbage has lots of showy leaves, usually green to purple in color depending on the variety. The heads are not compact, rather made from loosely wrapped leaves which are tender and great for making wraps or slaws or eaten raw. Savoy cabbage has a mildly sweet flavor.

Chinese Cabbage: Chinese cabbage has stems and leaves that grow upwards rather than compactly in heads. Both the stems and leaves are edible. Chinese cabbage typically takes less days to mature than other varieties.

Mini Cabbage: Mini cabbages grow on compact plants and are typically less than 6 inches in size. Mini cabbages are either round or cone-shaped. Their varieties are great for small gardens.

Note: Days to variety are from transplants unless otherwise noted.

Cabbage Varieties

Green Cabbage Varieties

Golden Acre: Early variety. Produces 3-4 inch heads on compact plants. Heads are solid with sweet, crisp greens. Disease resistant. 58 days.

Farao: Early variety. Produces 3-4 pound heads peppery-sweet in taste. Leaves are thin and crisp. Resists thrips. 64 days.

Stonehead Hybrid: Produces 4-6 pound heads which are very compact. Tight heads have short cores. Resists yellowing and black rot. 67 days.

Copenhagen: High-yielding variety. Produces heads up to 8 inches across. Heads are solid and keep well. 70 days.

Tropic Giant Hybrid: Main season variety. Produces some of the largest heads of any variety - up to 12 inches across and 15 pounds in weight. Flattish-round heads are pale green in color. Requires lots of room to grow. 72 days.

KY Cross: Produces small, uniform heads. Leaves are thin and full of flavor. Great for eating raw. 75 days.

Megaton Hybrid: Heavy-yielding variety. Produces 16 inch heads weighing up to 15 pounds. Sweet and mild in flavor. Stores well. Disease resistant. 88 days.

Sweet Surprise Hybrid: Produces 10-12 inch heads sweet in flavor. Stores well. Disease resistant. 125 days from seed, 90 days from transplant.

Kaitlin: Great sauerkraut variety. High-yielding, late season variety. Produces large heads with medium storage. Insides are white. 94 days.

Storage #4: Produces 4-8 pound heads in mid-fall. Heads are round with tapered base. Stores well. Resists fusarium yellows. 95 days.

Danish Ballhead: Produces bluish-green heads 8 inches in size. Easy to grow variety. Stores well. Bolt resistant. 100 days.

Late Flat Dutch: Late variety. Produces flattish heads 10 inches across. Heads are sweet and mild in flavor and pale green in color. Ships and stores well. 110 days.

Red Cabbage Varieties

Red Express: Extra-early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads on compact plants. High in flavor. Resists cracking. Recommended for the north.

Red Acre: Produces 7 inch heads about 3 pounds in weight. Heads are reddish-purple in color and tightly packed. Resists cabbage yellowing. 65 days.

Super Red: Produces medium-sized heads. Cabbage is peppery in taste with a tender, crisp texture. Resists splitting. 73 days.

Ruby Perfection: Mid-late season variety. Produces dense, medium-sized heads. Stores medium-well. Resists thrips. 85 days.

Integro: Mid-late season variety. Produces uniform, medium-sized heads. Short core with thick yet crisp leaves. 85 days.

Cairo Hybrid: Produces round, dense heads burgundy in color and averaging 3-6 pounds each. Sweet, crisp and tender. Disease resistant. 85 days.

Deadon Hybrid: Savoy-like variety. Produces heads with pinkish-purple outer leaves and green inner leaves. Peppery-sweet in taste. 105 days.

Mammoth Red Rock: Produces flattish heads up to 10 inches across. Solid red throughout. Stores well. 110 days.

Savoy Cabbage Varieties

Savoy Express Hybrid: Extra-early variety. Produces small heads about a pound in size. Great texture and flavor. Compact variety is great for small gardens. 55 days.

Autumn Jewel: Savoy-type variety. Produces large heads surrounded by pretty greens. Stores well and winter hardy. Not as compact as green cabbage varieties. 70 days.

Alcosa: Small, early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads deep, bluish-green in color. Improves in flavor once cold weather sets in. 72 days.

Famosa: Mid-season variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads deep, bluish-green in color. Leaves are tender. 75 days.

Cairo Hybrid: Produces round, dense heads burgundy in color and averaging 3-6 pounds each. Sweet, crisp and tender. Disease resistant. 85 days.

Deadon: Produces medium-large heads magenta in color and sweet in flavor. Resists yellowing. 105 days.

Mammoth Red Rock: Produces flattish heads up to 10 inches across. Solid red throughout. Stores well. 110 days.

Chinese Cabbage Varieties

Pak Choi: White stem variety. Produces thick white stems and loose, green leaves. Leaves are mild in flavor. Hearty and cold resistant. Great variety for the north. 45 days.

Minuet: Mini, high-yielding variety. Produces 9"x7" heads with yellow interior and green exterior leaves. Sweet tasting. Resists bolting, bottom rot, black speck & downy mildew. 48 days.

Rubicon: Produces 11inch heads weighing 5 1/2 - 6 1/2 pounds. Heads have broad, white ribs with deep green outer leaves with yellow interior. Sweet and tangy taste. Very juicy. Resists black speck. Slow to bolt. 52 days.

Bilko: Produces 12 inch heads mildly sweet in taste. Adaptable. Resists club root, black speck and fusarium yellow. Slow to bolt. 54 days.

Kaboko Hybrid: Produces 16 inch tall and 12 inch wide heads green and white in color. Harvest entire cabbage heads or leaf by leaf. Super sweet in flavor. Disease resistant. 59 days.

Wa Wa Tsai Hybrid: Produces 10-18 ounce tender heads that are sweet in flavor. Great for small gardens. 60 days.

Mini Cabbage Varieties 

Gonzales: Produces 4-6 inch heads. Heads are compact and uniform in size with sweet and spicy leaves. Great variety for small gardens. 66 days.

Caraflex: Produces cone-shaped cabbages uniform in size. Mini heads have tender inner leaves great for slaw and salads. 68 days.

Related Articles

Best Cabbage Varieties to Grow in the North

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Best Cabbage Varieties to Grow in the North

Cabbage Blend

Seeing as the north has a short growing season, the best varieties of cabbage to grow are those that are 70 days to maturity or less. Always start seeds indoors or use locally bought transplants which are suitable for growing in their area.

Green Cabbage Varieties

Golden Acre: Early variety. Produces 3-4 inch heads on compact plants. Heads are solid with sweet, crisp greens. Disease resistant. 58 days.

Farao: Early variety. Produces 3-4 pound heads peppery-sweet in taste. Leaves are thin and crisp. Resists thrips. 64 days.

Stonehead Hybrid: Produces 4-6 pound heads which are very compact. Tight heads have short cores. Resists yellowing and black rot. 67 days.

Copenhagen: High-yielding variety. Produces heads up to 8 inches across. Heads are solid and keep well. 70 days.

Red Cabbage Varieties

Red Express: Extra-early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads on compact plants. High in flavor. Resists cracking. Recommended for the north.

Red Acre: Produces 7 inch heads about 3 pounds in weight. Heads are reddish-purple in color and tightly packed. Resists cabbage yellowing. 65 days.

Savoy Cabbage Varieties

Savoy Express Hybrid: Extra-early variety. Produces small heads about a pound in size. Great texture and flavor. Compact variety great for small gardens. 55 days.

Autumn Jewel: Savoy-type variety. Produces large heads surrounded by pretty greens. Stores well and winter hardy. Not as compact as green cabbage varieties. 70 days.

Chinese Cabbage Varieties

Kaboko Hybrid Cabbage

Pak Choi: White stem variety. Produces thick white stems and loose, green leaves. Leaves are mild in flavor. Hearty and cold resistant. Great variety for the north. 45 days.

Kaboko Hybrid: Produces 16 inch tall and 12 inch wide heads green and white in color. Harvest entire cabbage heads or leaf by leaf. Super sweet in flavor. Disease resistant. 59 days.

Wa Wa Tsai Hybrid: Produces 10-18 ounce tender heads that are sweet in flavor. Great for small gardens. 60 days.

Mini Cabbage Varieties 

Caraflex Cabbage

Gonzales: Produces 4-6 inch heads. Heads are compact and uniform in size with sweet and spicy leaves. Great variety for small gardens. 66 days.

Caraflex: Produces cone-shaped cabbages uniform in size. Mini heads have tender inner leaves great for slaw and salads. 68 days.


Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in the North

Diablo Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts, a member of the cabbage family, thrive in the north because they’re hardy and improve in taste once temperatures cool or a light frost sets in. Seeing as Brussels sprouts are slow to mature, it’s best to start them indoors in spring or use transplants bought from the local nursery to successfully grow them in the north.

Vegetable Type: Annual
Genus: Cabbage Family
Name: Brassica oleracea Gemmifera Group
Zones: 4-7 (summer vegetable)

Guide to Growing Brussels Sprouts in the North

How to Start Seeds Indoors

Supplies Needed

• Seed Starter Tray/Pots
• Packet Brussels Sprouts Seeds
• Loam or Organic Vegetable Potting Mix
• Spray Bottle with Water

Tip: Start Brussels sprouts seeds indoors 4 - 5 weeks before first scheduled frost in the north.

1. Fill trays or pots 3/4 of the way with soil
2. Place 1 - 2 seeds in each pot or every 3 inches in trays
3. Lightly top with 1/4 - ½ inch of soil
4. Mist with water
5. Set trays in warm location exposing to sun
6. Keep soil evenly moist
7. When seedlings reach 2- 3 inches tall, thin to 1 per pot or 1 every 3 inches
8. Harden off Brussels sprout seedlings before transplanting

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts Outdoors

Tip: When Brussels sprout seedlings have been hardened off, and all danger of frost has passed in the north, transplant seedlings outdoors.

Spacing: Plant 1 seedling every 24 - 36 inches in rows that are 30 inches apart

Type of Soil: Fertile, well-draining soil. Till compost or composted manure into bed where Brussels sprouts are to be planted to increase soil fertility

Light: Full sun

Watering: Keep soil moist but not saturated

Fertilization: Side dress plants with composted manure or compost when plants reach 12 inches tall

Mulching: Mulch around Brussels sprouts to keep weeds down and soil moist

Weeding: Gently cultivate around plants being careful not to disturb the shallow roots

Brussels Sprout Garden Pest and Disease Control

Cabbage Root Maggot: Caused by a fly laying eggs in cracks at the base of the plant or in nearby soil. Eggs hatch into maggots that feed on roots and stems. Gardeningknowhow.com has several tips for combating these pests.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all Brussels sprout roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

Cabbage Loopers/Imported Worms: Check for green worms on Brussels sprouts plants, particularly around leaves. Handpick all worms and cocoons drowning them in soapy water.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

How to Harvest Brussels Sprouts

Harvest Brussels sprouts from the bottom of the plant up when sprouts reach maturity - about an inch in size for most varieties. Brussels sprouts improve in flavor when temperatures cool. Leave plants in the garden until the ground freezes.

Storage and Preservation

Freezing: Blanch 2-3 minutes. Freeze on cookie sheets before transferring to freezer bags to easily take specific amounts from bags.

Root Cellar: When ground freezes, pull entire plants, roots and all from the ground. Shake off any dirt and hang plants upside down in root cellar for 4 - 6 weeks.

Varieties of Brussels Sprouts to Grow in the North

Royal Marvel Hybrid Brussels Sprouts: Extra-early variety. Produces high yields of 1 inch sprouts dark green in color. Provides great taste as well as texture. Tastes great fresh or frozen. 85 days.

Churchill Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces, large, smooth, flavorful sprouts medium-green in color. Adapts well to different climates. Vigorous grower. 90 days.

Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces 1 inch sprouts on 24 inch tall plants. Sprouts are firm. Prolific grower. Extended harvest. Freezes well. 90 days.

Nautic Brussels Sprouts: High-yielding especially in the north where fall is cool. Produces flavorful, medium-sized sprouts light green in color. Tolerates cold. Harvest in late fall. 105 days.

Related Articles

List of Varieties of Brussels Sprouts

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)
How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables

Tips for Choosing Vegetable Varieties for the North

Gibby's Garden of Maine

Part of planning your vegetable garden means choosing the right varieties to grow in your USDA zone, as well as varieties that suit your needs. Some vegetables seem to have an endless amount of varieties to choose from, which can seem daunting, especially to the novice gardener. To make choosing a little easier, I’ve put together a list of tips I use when it comes to choosing vegetable varieties for my garden.

1. How big of yield do I want?
2. What size is my garden?
3. How many days to maturity?
4. What am I going to do with my vegetables?
5. Which varieties are best for freezing, canning or making sauce?
6. Do I want to try something new?

Typically, I want high yields of vegetables that I plan on freezing or canning such as beans and cucumbers. I start by thinking about which varieties I planted in the past, how well they grew in my garden and whether or not they suited my needs.

I then consider days to maturity as I flip through my seed catalogs. Seeing as I live in the north, I prefer to grow varieties with shorter days to maturity. When it comes to certain vegetables such as tomatoes and broccoli that take longer to grow, I plan on either starting my seeds indoors or buying transplants from my local nursery to get a head start on the growing season.

I have lots of room to grow my vegetables so the size of my garden is really an issue. For those with limited garden space, choosing bush varieties is a good way to go. Bush varieties are more compact, taking up less space in the garden. Many can even by grown in containers.

When I want to try a new vegetable or variety, I follow tips 1-5 to make choosing a little easier. My biggest concern is whether or not the vegetable will have enough time to fully mature in the north. Last year I tried kohlrabi for the first time - it didn’t do so great so I’ll be trying a different variety this year, because I am bound and determined to grow it successfully.

Lastly, it’s always a good idea to ask friends, family and neighbors which vegetable varieties they grow in their gardens. They’ll know first hand how well certain vegetables grow in the area, how high the yields are and whether or not they’re a good fit for the growing season.

Which vegetable varieties are you growing this year?

Varieties of Brussels Sprouts to Grow in the North

Seeing as the north has a short growing season, there are handful of Brussels sprout varieties that grow best in the area. For the best results, always use transplants from the local nursery or start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last scheduled frost. While the best varieties to grow in the north may be limited, the good news is, many Brussels sprouts improve with flavor after a frost.

Royal Marvel Hybrid Brussels Sprouts: Extra-early variety. Produces high yields of 1 inch sprouts dark green in color. Provides great taste as well as texture. Tastes great fresh or frozen. 85 days.

Churchill Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces, large, smooth, flavorful sprouts medium-green in color. Adapts well to different climates. Vigorous grower. 90 days.

Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces 1 inch sprouts on 24 inch tall plants. Sprouts are firm. Prolific grower. Extended harvest. Freezes well. 90 days.

Nautic Brussels Sprouts: High-yielding especially in the north where fall is cool. Produces flavorful, medium-sized sprouts light green in color. Tolerates cold. Harvest in late fall. 105 days.