Types and Varieties of Cabbage

Gonzales Cabbage

Types of Cabbage

Green Cabbage: Green cabbage forms heads of different sizes with green outer leaves that typically get lighter near the core of the cabbage. Almost the entire heads are edible, except the core, and work well in main dishes as well as raw in slaws and salads.

Red Cabbage: Red cabbage is similar to green cabbage only it's reddish-purple in color. Red cabbage has a bolder flavor than green and makes a striking contrast in color.

Savoy Cabbage: Savoy cabbage has lots of showy leaves, usually green to purple in color depending on the variety. The heads are not compact, rather made from loosely wrapped leaves which are tender and great for making wraps or slaws or eaten raw. Savoy cabbage has a mildly sweet flavor.

Chinese Cabbage: Chinese cabbage has stems and leaves that grow upwards rather than compactly in heads. Both the stems and leaves are edible. Chinese cabbage typically takes less days to mature than other varieties.

Mini Cabbage: Mini cabbages grow on compact plants and are typically less than 6 inches in size. Mini cabbages are either round or cone-shaped. Their varieties are great for small gardens.

Note: Days to variety are from transplants unless otherwise noted.

Cabbage Varieties

Green Cabbage Varieties

Golden Acre: Early variety. Produces 3-4 inch heads on compact plants. Heads are solid with sweet, crisp greens. Disease resistant. 58 days.

Farao: Early variety. Produces 3-4 pound heads peppery-sweet in taste. Leaves are thin and crisp. Resists thrips. 64 days.

Stonehead Hybrid: Produces 4-6 pound heads which are very compact. Tight heads have short cores. Resists yellowing and black rot. 67 days.

Copenhagen: High-yielding variety. Produces heads up to 8 inches across. Heads are solid and keep well. 70 days.

Tropic Giant Hybrid: Main season variety. Produces some of the largest heads of any variety - up to 12 inches across and 15 pounds in weight. Flattish-round heads are pale green in color. Requires lots of room to grow. 72 days.

KY Cross: Produces small, uniform heads. Leaves are thin and full of flavor. Great for eating raw. 75 days.

Megaton Hybrid: Heavy-yielding variety. Produces 16 inch heads weighing up to 15 pounds. Sweet and mild in flavor. Stores well. Disease resistant. 88 days.

Sweet Surprise Hybrid: Produces 10-12 inch heads sweet in flavor. Stores well. Disease resistant. 125 days from seed, 90 days from transplant.

Kaitlin: Great sauerkraut variety. High-yielding, late season variety. Produces large heads with medium storage. Insides are white. 94 days.

Storage #4: Produces 4-8 pound heads in mid-fall. Heads are round with tapered base. Stores well. Resists fusarium yellows. 95 days.

Danish Ballhead: Produces bluish-green heads 8 inches in size. Easy to grow variety. Stores well. Bolt resistant. 100 days.

Late Flat Dutch: Late variety. Produces flattish heads 10 inches across. Heads are sweet and mild in flavor and pale green in color. Ships and stores well. 110 days.

Red Cabbage Varieties

Red Express: Extra-early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads on compact plants. High in flavor. Resists cracking. Recommended for the north.

Red Acre: Produces 7 inch heads about 3 pounds in weight. Heads are reddish-purple in color and tightly packed. Resists cabbage yellowing. 65 days.

Super Red: Produces medium-sized heads. Cabbage is peppery in taste with a tender, crisp texture. Resists splitting. 73 days.

Ruby Perfection: Mid-late season variety. Produces dense, medium-sized heads. Stores medium-well. Resists thrips. 85 days.

Integro: Mid-late season variety. Produces uniform, medium-sized heads. Short core with thick yet crisp leaves. 85 days.

Cairo Hybrid: Produces round, dense heads burgundy in color and averaging 3-6 pounds each. Sweet, crisp and tender. Disease resistant. 85 days.

Deadon Hybrid: Savoy-like variety. Produces heads with pinkish-purple outer leaves and green inner leaves. Peppery-sweet in taste. 105 days.

Mammoth Red Rock: Produces flattish heads up to 10 inches across. Solid red throughout. Stores well. 110 days.

Savoy Cabbage Varieties

Savoy Express Hybrid: Extra-early variety. Produces small heads about a pound in size. Great texture and flavor. Compact variety is great for small gardens. 55 days.

Autumn Jewel: Savoy-type variety. Produces large heads surrounded by pretty greens. Stores well and winter hardy. Not as compact as green cabbage varieties. 70 days.

Alcosa: Small, early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads deep, bluish-green in color. Improves in flavor once cold weather sets in. 72 days.

Famosa: Mid-season variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads deep, bluish-green in color. Leaves are tender. 75 days.

Cairo Hybrid: Produces round, dense heads burgundy in color and averaging 3-6 pounds each. Sweet, crisp and tender. Disease resistant. 85 days.

Deadon: Produces medium-large heads magenta in color and sweet in flavor. Resists yellowing. 105 days.

Mammoth Red Rock: Produces flattish heads up to 10 inches across. Solid red throughout. Stores well. 110 days.

Chinese Cabbage Varieties

Pak Choi: White stem variety. Produces thick white stems and loose, green leaves. Leaves are mild in flavor. Hearty and cold resistant. Great variety for the north. 45 days.

Minuet: Mini, high-yielding variety. Produces 9"x7" heads with yellow interior and green exterior leaves. Sweet tasting. Resists bolting, bottom rot, black speck & downy mildew. 48 days.

Rubicon: Produces 11inch heads weighing 5 1/2 - 6 1/2 pounds. Heads have broad, white ribs with deep green outer leaves with yellow interior. Sweet and tangy taste. Very juicy. Resists black speck. Slow to bolt. 52 days.

Bilko: Produces 12 inch heads mildly sweet in taste. Adaptable. Resists club root, black speck and fusarium yellow. Slow to bolt. 54 days.

Kaboko Hybrid: Produces 16 inch tall and 12 inch wide heads green and white in color. Harvest entire cabbage heads or leaf by leaf. Super sweet in flavor. Disease resistant. 59 days.

Wa Wa Tsai Hybrid: Produces 10-18 ounce tender heads that are sweet in flavor. Great for small gardens. 60 days.

Mini Cabbage Varieties 

Gonzales: Produces 4-6 inch heads. Heads are compact and uniform in size with sweet and spicy leaves. Great variety for small gardens. 66 days.

Caraflex: Produces cone-shaped cabbages uniform in size. Mini heads have tender inner leaves great for slaw and salads. 68 days.

Related Articles

Best Cabbage Varieties to Grow in the North

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Best Cabbage Varieties to Grow in the North

Cabbage Blend

Seeing as the north has a short growing season, the best varieties of cabbage to grow are those that are 70 days to maturity or less. Always start seeds indoors or use locally bought transplants which are suitable for growing in their area.

Green Cabbage Varieties

Golden Acre: Early variety. Produces 3-4 inch heads on compact plants. Heads are solid with sweet, crisp greens. Disease resistant. 58 days.

Farao: Early variety. Produces 3-4 pound heads peppery-sweet in taste. Leaves are thin and crisp. Resists thrips. 64 days.

Stonehead Hybrid: Produces 4-6 pound heads which are very compact. Tight heads have short cores. Resists yellowing and black rot. 67 days.

Copenhagen: High-yielding variety. Produces heads up to 8 inches across. Heads are solid and keep well. 70 days.

Red Cabbage Varieties

Red Express: Extra-early variety. Produces 2-4 pound heads on compact plants. High in flavor. Resists cracking. Recommended for the north.

Red Acre: Produces 7 inch heads about 3 pounds in weight. Heads are reddish-purple in color and tightly packed. Resists cabbage yellowing. 65 days.

Savoy Cabbage Varieties

Savoy Express Hybrid: Extra-early variety. Produces small heads about a pound in size. Great texture and flavor. Compact variety great for small gardens. 55 days.

Autumn Jewel: Savoy-type variety. Produces large heads surrounded by pretty greens. Stores well and winter hardy. Not as compact as green cabbage varieties. 70 days.

Chinese Cabbage Varieties

Kaboko Hybrid Cabbage

Pak Choi: White stem variety. Produces thick white stems and loose, green leaves. Leaves are mild in flavor. Hearty and cold resistant. Great variety for the north. 45 days.

Kaboko Hybrid: Produces 16 inch tall and 12 inch wide heads green and white in color. Harvest entire cabbage heads or leaf by leaf. Super sweet in flavor. Disease resistant. 59 days.

Wa Wa Tsai Hybrid: Produces 10-18 ounce tender heads that are sweet in flavor. Great for small gardens. 60 days.

Mini Cabbage Varieties 

Caraflex Cabbage

Gonzales: Produces 4-6 inch heads. Heads are compact and uniform in size with sweet and spicy leaves. Great variety for small gardens. 66 days.

Caraflex: Produces cone-shaped cabbages uniform in size. Mini heads have tender inner leaves great for slaw and salads. 68 days.


Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in the North

Diablo Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts, a member of the cabbage family, thrive in the north because they’re hardy and improve in taste once temperatures cool or a light frost sets in. Seeing as Brussels sprouts are slow to mature, it’s best to start them indoors in spring or use transplants bought from the local nursery to successfully grow them in the north.

Vegetable Type: Annual
Genus: Cabbage Family
Name: Brassica oleracea Gemmifera Group
Zones: 4-7 (summer vegetable)

Guide to Growing Brussels Sprouts in the North

How to Start Seeds Indoors

Supplies Needed

• Seed Starter Tray/Pots
• Packet Brussels Sprouts Seeds
• Loam or Organic Vegetable Potting Mix
• Spray Bottle with Water

Tip: Start Brussels sprouts seeds indoors 4 - 5 weeks before first scheduled frost in the north.

1. Fill trays or pots 3/4 of the way with soil
2. Place 1 - 2 seeds in each pot or every 3 inches in trays
3. Lightly top with 1/4 - ½ inch of soil
4. Mist with water
5. Set trays in warm location exposing to sun
6. Keep soil evenly moist
7. When seedlings reach 2- 3 inches tall, thin to 1 per pot or 1 every 3 inches
8. Harden off Brussels sprout seedlings before transplanting

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts Outdoors

Tip: When Brussels sprout seedlings have been hardened off, and all danger of frost has passed in the north, transplant seedlings outdoors.

Spacing: Plant 1 seedling every 24 - 36 inches in rows that are 30 inches apart

Type of Soil: Fertile, well-draining soil. Till compost or composted manure into bed where Brussels sprouts are to be planted to increase soil fertility

Light: Full sun

Watering: Keep soil moist but not saturated

Fertilization: Side dress plants with composted manure or compost when plants reach 12 inches tall

Mulching: Mulch around Brussels sprouts to keep weeds down and soil moist

Weeding: Gently cultivate around plants being careful not to disturb the shallow roots

Brussels Sprout Garden Pest and Disease Control

Cabbage Root Maggot: Caused by a fly laying eggs in cracks at the base of the plant or in nearby soil. Eggs hatch into maggots that feed on roots and stems. Gardeningknowhow.com has several tips for combating these pests.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all Brussels sprout roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

Cabbage Loopers/Imported Worms: Check for green worms on Brussels sprouts plants, particularly around leaves. Handpick all worms and cocoons drowning them in soapy water.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

How to Harvest Brussels Sprouts

Harvest Brussels sprouts from the bottom of the plant up when sprouts reach maturity - about an inch in size for most varieties. Brussels sprouts improve in flavor when temperatures cool. Leave plants in the garden until the ground freezes.

Storage and Preservation

Freezing: Blanch 2-3 minutes. Freeze on cookie sheets before transferring to freezer bags to easily take specific amounts from bags.

Root Cellar: When ground freezes, pull entire plants, roots and all from the ground. Shake off any dirt and hang plants upside down in root cellar for 4 - 6 weeks.

Varieties of Brussels Sprouts to Grow in the North

Royal Marvel Hybrid Brussels Sprouts: Extra-early variety. Produces high yields of 1 inch sprouts dark green in color. Provides great taste as well as texture. Tastes great fresh or frozen. 85 days.

Churchill Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces, large, smooth, flavorful sprouts medium-green in color. Adapts well to different climates. Vigorous grower. 90 days.

Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces 1 inch sprouts on 24 inch tall plants. Sprouts are firm. Prolific grower. Extended harvest. Freezes well. 90 days.

Nautic Brussels Sprouts: High-yielding especially in the north where fall is cool. Produces flavorful, medium-sized sprouts light green in color. Tolerates cold. Harvest in late fall. 105 days.

Related Articles

List of Varieties of Brussels Sprouts

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)
How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables

Tips for Choosing Vegetable Varieties for the North

Gibby's Garden of Maine

Part of planning your vegetable garden means choosing the right varieties to grow in your USDA zone, as well as varieties that suit your needs. Some vegetables seem to have an endless amount of varieties to choose from, which can seem daunting, especially to the novice gardener. To make choosing a little easier, I’ve put together a list of tips I use when it comes to choosing vegetable varieties for my garden.

1. How big of yield do I want?
2. What size is my garden?
3. How many days to maturity?
4. What am I going to do with my vegetables?
5. Which varieties are best for freezing, canning or making sauce?
6. Do I want to try something new?

Typically, I want high yields of vegetables that I plan on freezing or canning such as beans and cucumbers. I start by thinking about which varieties I planted in the past, how well they grew in my garden and whether or not they suited my needs.

I then consider days to maturity as I flip through my seed catalogs. Seeing as I live in the north, I prefer to grow varieties with shorter days to maturity. When it comes to certain vegetables such as tomatoes and broccoli that take longer to grow, I plan on either starting my seeds indoors or buying transplants from my local nursery to get a head start on the growing season.

I have lots of room to grow my vegetables so the size of my garden is really an issue. For those with limited garden space, choosing bush varieties is a good way to go. Bush varieties are more compact, taking up less space in the garden. Many can even by grown in containers.

When I want to try a new vegetable or variety, I follow tips 1-5 to make choosing a little easier. My biggest concern is whether or not the vegetable will have enough time to fully mature in the north. Last year I tried kohlrabi for the first time - it didn’t do so great so I’ll be trying a different variety this year, because I am bound and determined to grow it successfully.

Lastly, it’s always a good idea to ask friends, family and neighbors which vegetable varieties they grow in their gardens. They’ll know first hand how well certain vegetables grow in the area, how high the yields are and whether or not they’re a good fit for the growing season.

Which vegetable varieties are you growing this year?

Varieties of Brussels Sprouts to Grow in the North

Seeing as the north has a short growing season, there are handful of Brussels sprout varieties that grow best in the area. For the best results, always use transplants from the local nursery or start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last scheduled frost. While the best varieties to grow in the north may be limited, the good news is, many Brussels sprouts improve with flavor after a frost.

Royal Marvel Hybrid Brussels Sprouts: Extra-early variety. Produces high yields of 1 inch sprouts dark green in color. Provides great taste as well as texture. Tastes great fresh or frozen. 85 days.

Churchill Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces, large, smooth, flavorful sprouts medium-green in color. Adapts well to different climates. Vigorous grower. 90 days.

Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts: Early variety. Produces 1 inch sprouts on 24 inch tall plants. Sprouts are firm. Prolific grower. Extended harvest. Freezes well. 90 days.

Nautic Brussels Sprouts: High-yielding especially in the north where fall is cool. Produces flavorful, medium-sized sprouts light green in color. Tolerates cold. Harvest in late fall. 105 days.

Varieties of Brussels Sprouts

Bitesize Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts come in several varieties to suit the tastes and growing seasons of gardeners. Some mature earlier than others and offer an extended harvest. No matter which variety of Brussels sprouts are grown, they should always be harvested from bottom to top.

Royal Marvel Hybrid Brussels Sprouts: Extra-early variety. Produces high yields of 1 inch sprouts dark green in color. Provides great taste as well as texture. Tastes great fresh or frozen. 85 days.

Diablo

Churchill: Early variety. Produces, large, smooth, flavorful sprouts medium-green in color. Adapts well to different climates. Vigorous grower. 90 days.

Long Island Improved: Early variety. Produces 1 inch sprouts on 24 inch tall plants. Sprouts are firm. Prolific grower. Extended harvest. Freezes well. 90 days.

Nautic Brussels Sprouts: High-yielding especially in the north where fall is cool. Produces flavorful, medium-sized sprouts light green in color. Tolerates cold. Harvest in late fall. 105 days.

Falstaff

Diablo: Heavy-yielding. Produces smooth, medium-sized sprouts. Tolerates cold well. Great for fall harvest. 110 days.

Bitesize Brussels Sprouts: Gourmet variety. Produces mini sprouts packed with peppery flavor getting sweeter after frost. 120 days.

Falstaff Brussels Sprouts: Purplish-red variety. Produces sprouts with a mild, nutty flavor. Slow to mature. Color keeps after cooking. 125 days.

Vegetable Growing Guides for the North

I’m putting together a list of vegetable growing guides tailored for the north. I thought winter would the perfect time to get started on this project. As you can see, this is a work in progress. As I add new guides to Gibby’s Garden each week, I’ll link them from this page as well. Please come back often to check out the new guides or to leave me questions or comments.

Artichokes

How to Grow Artichokes in the North
Types and Varieties of Artichoke

Asparagus

How to Grow Asparagus in the North
Types and Varieties of Asparagus

Beans

How to Grow Beans in the North
Types and Varieties of Beans

Beets

How to Grow Beets in the North
Types and Varieties of Beets

Broccoli

How to Grow Broccoli in the North
Best Broccoli Varieties to Grow in the North
Types and Varieties of Broccoli

Brussels Sprouts

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in the North

Best Varieties of Brussels Sprouts to Grow in the North

How to Grow Broccoli in the North

Coronado Crown

Broccoli grows very well in the north because it’s a cool-season vegetable but due to the short growing season, it’s important to choose an early variety. (See below) It’s best to use nursery bought transplants or start seeds indoors. I’m happy to report that last year I harvested broccoli well into November before my plants died off.

Plant Type: Annual
Genus: Cabbage Family
Name: Brassica oleracea
Zones: 3-10

How to Start Broccoli Seeds Indoors

Supplies Needed

• Starter Trays or Pots
• Broccoli Seeds
• Mix of Sandy, Loamy Soil w/Organic Matter

Directions

• Start broccoli  indoors 2-3 weeks before last spring frost
• Fill trays or pots ¾ of the way with soil
• Plant 2-3 seeds per pot according to depth instructions on back of seed packet
• Loosely top with soil
• Water 
• Keep seedlings watered. If soil hardens and cracks, water more often
• After seedlings sprout, thin to 1 per pot or every 1-1 ½ inches
• Harden off broccoli seedlings at 6-8 weeks old before transplanting outdoors

How to Grow Broccoli Outdoors

When to Plant: Transplant up to 2 weeks after last scheduled spring frost

Light Requirements: Full sun

Soil Type: Mix of loamy/sandy soil mixed with compost or year-old manure

Spacing: Space broccoli seedlings 24” apart - do not cage

Watering: Keep soil moist and well-watered. Spare heads while watering to prevent rot

Fertilization: Fertilize with organic matter 3 weeks after transplanting

Weeding: Take care when weeding to not disturb shallow broccoli roots

Mulching: Mulch 2-3 inches around and in between broccoli plants to keep weeds down and retain moisture in soil. Mulch also helps keep soil temperatures cooler

Garden Pest and Disease Control

Imported Cabbageworms: Look for larvae (caterpillars) that are green in color with  yellow stripes down their backs. Adults are 1 ½ inch butterflies. Imported cabbageworms leave behind large holes in broccoli leaves and green-black frass (droppings). Handpick worms and cocoons from backside of leaves and drown in soapy water.

Cabbage Loopers: Larvae are 1 ½ inch long worms with two white or yellow lines down their backs. Control using the same method as imported cabbageworms.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

White Flies: Look for powdery-white, ½0 of an inch long flies on the undersides of leaves. They leave behind clusters of white rings with dark centers. Control with yellow sticky traps or insecticidal soap.

Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in broccoli leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.

Downy Mildew: Look for yellow patches on leaves. Mildew is typically caused by too much moistness. Avoid spraying broccoli leaves when watering. Plant downy mildew resistant varieties.

Nitrogen Deficiency: Leaves yellow starting at the bottom and working up. Treat deficiency with composted manure, a fertilizer high in nitrogen but low in phosphorus or Blood Meal.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all broccoli roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

How to Harvest Broccoli

Harvest the main heads of broccoli while buds are tight and before they yellow or flower. Cut stems at a slant 5 inches below heads with a sharp knife. Continue cutting all side shoots to encourage an extended harvest.

Storage

Rinse and dry heads before storing in fridge for up to 5 days. Blanch and freeze up to a year for longer storage.

Last year I had what I thought was a bright idea at the time. After transplanting my seedlings in the garden, I placed a tomato cage around each plant. My reasoning was, since broccoli plants have shallow root systems and mature plants tend

Related Articles

List of Broccoli Types and Varieties

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)
How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables

Varieties of Broccoli to Grow in the North

Apollo Broccoli

There are plenty of broccoli varieties to grow in the north. The best one’s have shorter days to maturity. Always start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date or buy transplants from the local plant nursery for a healthy and productive harvest in the north.

Mini Broccoli Varieties (Broccoli X Gailon)

Happy Rich: Produces large florets sweet in flavor. Plants are dark green with lots of side shoots. 55 days.

Atlantis: High yield potential. Florets are even bigger than “Happy Rich.” Harvest mature head to encourage side shoots to grow for an additional 4-6 weeks. Slightly sweet flavor. 60 days.

Broccoli Raab Varieties

Sessantina Grossa: Early variety. Shoots and buds are thick and tender, resembling “mini” versions of full-sized broccoli. Best when used for an early harvest. 35 days.

Spring Raab: Best pick for growing and harvesting all season long. Large plants mature late. Great for pairing with Sessantina Grossa for extended harvest. 42 days.

Spigariello Liscia: Leaf variety grown similar to broccoli raab. Individual leaves or bunches can be harvested. If left to mature, mini broccoli heads will form. Sweeter taste. 45 days, 70 days for mini heads.

Full-Sized Broccoli

Green Goliath: Great garden variety. Produces bluish-green heads with tight buds and lots of side shoots. Large heads can be harvested over a 3 week period. 53 days.

Calabrese: Heirloom variety. Produces dark, bluish-green heads averaging 5” across on large 30-36” plants. 60-90 days.

Green Duke: Great southern variety. Vigorous grower producing high yields of dome shaped heads. Tolerates heat well. 70 days.

Broccoli Hybrids

Blue Wind: Early variety. Produces medium-sized blueish green heads. Uniform in size. Easy to harvest. 49 days.


Flash: Early variety. Produces bluish-green heads sweeter in flavor than most. Tolerates heat and Downy mildew. 50 days.

Amadeus: Early variety. Produces medium-sized heads blueish-green in color. Produces lots of side shoots. Attractive heads look good at markets with fine beads and uniform shape. Plants are medium-sized and vigorous. 56 days.

Green Magic: Early variety. Produces smooth, uniform heads that are attractive to look at in markets. Plants are medium-sized. 57 days.

Packman Broccoli

Packman Broccoli: Early Variety. High-yielding. Produces  8” dark-green domed heads with medium-large beads. Lots of side shoots. Freezes well. Tolerates heat. 57 days.

Premium Crop: Early variety. Produces 9” heads with tight beads. Plants can grow up to 2’ tall. Flavorful. 58 days.

Gypsy: Early variety. Produces uniform, well-domed heads with a medium-large bead size. Stems are medium in size. Produces a good amount of side shoots. Plants grow large and resist downy mildew well and have a good heat tolerance. 58 days.

Coronado Crown Broccoli

Coronado Crown: Great northern/southern variety. Produces solid, dome-shaped heads with tender, stringless stems. Produces lots of side shoots. Tolerates heat well. Freezes well. 58 days.

Green Magic: Produces blueish-green heads uniform in size and full of flavor. Tolerates downy mildew. Freezes well. 60 days.

Bay Meadows: Adaptable variety. Produces blueish-green heads with good domes. 60 days.

Arcadia: Cold variety. Produces firm, dark-green heads with a frosted look. Grows vigorously maturing mid to late season. Resists downy mildew, head rot & brown heads. Tolerates stress and cold well. 63 days.

Batavia: Produces dark-green heads with tight, medium beads. Adapts well. Resists powdery mildew. Heat and cold tolerant. 65 days.

Belstar Broccoli

Belstar: Adaptable variety. Produces medium-green heads with good domes and medium beads. Good shoot production. Tolerates stress well. 66 days.

Diplomat: A great variety for the north. Produces dense, dark-green heads medium-large in size with small beads. Good for bunching or crown cutting. Resists downy mildew well. 68 days.

Marathon: Fall/winter variety. Matures late in the season. Tolerates cold very well. Harvest in late summer and fall. 68 days.

Apollo: A cross between Calabrese and Chinese Kale. 24” tall plants are great for small gardens. Produces long, tender stalks. Harvest main head for lots of side shoots. Heavy producer. 80 days.

Open Pollinated Broccoli

De Cicco: Italian variety. Produces clusters of 3-4" main heads and lots of side shoots for an extended harvest. Good for spring and fall production. 48 days.

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Best Broccoli Varieties to Grow in the North

Apollo Broccoli

There are plenty of broccoli varieties to grow in the north. The best one’s have shorter days to maturity. Always start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date or buy transplants from the local plant nursery for a healthy and productive harvest in the north.

Mini Broccoli Varieties (Broccoli X Gailon)

Happy Rich: Produces large florets sweet in flavor. Plants are dark green with lots of side shoots. 55 days.

Atlantis: High yield potential. Florets are even bigger than “Happy Rich.” Harvest mature head to encourage side shoots to grow for an additional 4-6 weeks. Slightly sweet flavor. 60 days.

Broccoli Raab Varieties

Sessantina Grossa: Early variety. Shoots and buds are thick and tender, resembling “mini” versions of full-sized broccoli. Best when used for an early harvest. 35 days.

Spring Raab: Best pick for growing and harvesting all season long. Large plants mature late. Great for pairing with Sessantina Grossa for extended harvest. 42 days.

Spigariello Liscia: Leaf variety grown similar to broccoli raab. Individual leaves or bunches can be harvested. If left to mature, mini broccoli heads will form. Sweeter taste. 45 days, 70 days for mini heads.

Full-Sized Broccoli

Green Goliath: Great garden variety. Produces bluish-green heads with tight buds and lots of side shoots. Large heads can be harvested over a 3 week period. 53 days.

Calabrese: Heirloom variety. Produces dark, bluish-green heads averaging 5” across on large 30-36” plants. 60-90 days.

Green Duke: Great southern variety. Vigorous grower producing high yields of dome shaped heads. Tolerates heat well. 70 days.

Broccoli Hybrids

Blue Wind: Early variety. Produces medium-sized blueish green heads. Uniform in size. Easy to harvest. 49 days.

Flash: Early variety. Produces bluish-green heads sweeter in flavor than most. Tolerates heat and Downy mildew. 50 days.

Amadeus: Early variety. Produces medium-sized heads blueish-green in color. Produces lots of side shoots. Attractive heads look good at markets with fine beads and uniform shape. Plants are medium-sized and vigorous. 56 days.

Green Magic: Early variety. Produces smooth, uniform heads that are attractive to look at in markets. Plants are medium-sized. 57 days.

Packman Broccoli

Packman Broccoli: Early Variety. High-yielding. Produces  8” dark-green domed heads with medium-large beads. Lots of side shoots. Freezes well. Tolerates heat. 57 days.

Premium Crop: Early variety. Produces 9” heads with tight beads. Plants can grow up to 2’ tall. Flavorful. 58 days.

Gypsy: Early variety. Produces uniform, well-domed heads with a medium-large bead size. Stems are medium in size. Produces a good amount of side shoots. Plants grow large and resist downy mildew well and have a good heat tolerance. 58 days.

Coronado Crown Broccoli

Coronado Crown: Great northern/southern variety. Produces solid, dome-shaped heads with tender, stringless stems. Produces lots of side shoots. Tolerates heat well. Freezes well. 58 days.

Green Magic: Produces blueish-green heads uniform in size and full of flavor. Tolerates downy mildew. Freezes well. 60 days.

Bay Meadows: Adaptable variety. Produces blueish-green heads with good domes. 60 days.

Arcadia: Cold variety. Produces firm, dark-green heads with a frosted look. Grows vigorously maturing mid to late season. Resists downy mildew, head rot & brown heads. Tolerates stress and cold well. 63 days.

Batavia: Produces dark-green heads with tight, medium beads. Adapts well. Resists powdery mildew. Heat and cold tolerant. 65 days.

Belstar Broccoli

Belstar: Adaptable variety. Produces medium-green heads with good domes and medium beads. Good shoot production. Tolerates stress well. 66 days.

Diplomat: A great variety for the north. Produces dense, dark-green heads medium-large in size with small beads. Good for bunching or crown cutting. Resists downy mildew well. 68 days.

Marathon: Fall/winter variety. Matures late in the season. Tolerates cold very well. Harvest in late summer and fall. 68 days.

Apollo: A cross between Calabrese and Chinese Kale. 24” tall plants are great for small gardens. Produces long, tender stalks. Harvest main head for lots of side shoots. Heavy producer. 80 days.

Open Pollinated Broccoli

De Cicco: Italian variety. Produces clusters of 3-4" main heads and lots of side shoots for an extended harvest. Good for spring and fall production. 48 days.

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Types and Varieties of Broccoli

Belstar Broccoli

Types of Broccoli

Mini Broccoli: Entire bunch is harvested when buds appear or buds are harvested for an extended harvest. Buds form instead of full-sized heads.

Broccoli Raab: Edible leafy shoots and clumped flower buds that are sometimes bitter in taste.

Full-Sized Broccoli: Large plants that produce full-sized heads and lots of side shoots after main head has been harvested.

List of Broccoli Varieties

Mini Broccoli Varieties (Broccoli X Gailon)

Happy Rich: Produces large florets sweet in flavor. Plants are dark green with lots of side shoots. 55 days.

Atlantis: High yield potential. Florets are even bigger than “Happy Rich.” Harvest mature head to encourage side shoots to grow for an additional 4-6 weeks. Slightly sweet flavor. 60 days.

Santee: (sprouting broccoli) Produces sweet and tender purple florets with green stems. (Florets turn green after cooking.) Good for bunching. Harvest heads when mini in size. Grows best in cooler climates. Hot weather turns broccoli bitter. Produces for 3-5 weeks. 80-115 days.

Broccoli Raab Varieties

Sessantina Grossa: Early variety. Shoots and buds are thick and tender, resembling “mini” versions of full-sized broccoli. Best when used for an early harvest. 35 days.

Spring Raab: Best pick for growing and harvesting all season long. Large plants mature late. Great for pairing with Sessantina Grossa for extended harvest. 42 days.

Spigariello Liscia: Leaf variety grown similar to broccoli raab. Individual leaves or bunches can be harvested. If left to mature, mini broccoli heads will form. Sweetetaste. 45 days, 70 days for mini heads.

Full-Sized Broccoli

Green Goliath: Great garden variety. Produces bluish-green heads with tight buds and lots of side shoots. Large heads can be harvested over a 3 week period. 53 days.

Calabrese: Heirloom variety. Produces dark, bluish-green heads averaging 5” across on large 30-36” plants. 60-90 days.

Green Duke: Great southern variety. Vigorous grower producing high yields of dome shaped heads. Tolerates heat well. 70 days.

Broccoli Hybrids

Blue Wind: Early variety. Produces medium-sized blueish green heads. Uniform in size. Easy to harvest. 49 days.


Flash: Early variety. Produces bluish-green heads sweeter in flavor than most. Tolerates heat and Downy mildew. 50 days.

Amadeus: Early variety. Produces medium-sized heads blueish-green in color. Produces lots of side shoots. Attractive heads look good at markets with fine beads and uniform shape. Plants are medium-sized and vigorous. 56 days.

Packman Broccoli

Green Magic: Early variety. Produces smooth, uniform heads that are attractive to look at in markets. Plants are medium-sized. 57 days.

Packman Broccoli: Early Variety. High-yielding. Produces  8” dark-green domed heads with medium-large beads. Lots of side shoots. Freezes well. Tolerates heat. 57 days.

Premium Crop: Early variety. Produces 9” heads with tight beads. Plants can grow up to 2’ tall. Flavorful. 58 days.

Gypsy: Early variety. Produces uniform, well-domed heads with a medium-large bead size. Stems are medium in size. Produces a good amount of side shoots. Plants grow large and resist downy mildew well and have a good heat tolerance. 58 days.

Coronado Crown Broccoli

Coronado Crown: Great northern/southern variety. Produces solid, dome-shaped heads with tender, stringless stems. Produces lots of side shoots. Tolerates heat well. Freezes well. 58 days.

Green Magic: Produces blueish-green heads uniform in size and full of flavor. Tolerates downy mildew. Freezes well. 60 days.

Bay Meadows: Adaptable variety. Produces blueish-green heads with good domes. 60 days.

Arcadia: Cold variety. Produces firm, dark-green heads with a frosted look. Grows vigorously maturing mid to late season. Resists downy mildew, head rot & brown heads. Tolerates stress and cold well. 63 days.

Batavia: Produces dark-green heads with tight, medium beads. Adapts well. Resists powdery mildew. Heat and cold tolerant. 65 days.

Belstar Broccoli

Belstar: Adaptable variety. Produces medium-green heads with good domes and medium beads. Good shoot production. Tolerates stress well. 66 days.

Diplomat: A great variety for the north. Produces dense, dark-green heads medium-large in size with small beads. Good for bunching or crown cutting. Resists downy mildew well. 68 days.

Marathon: Fall/winter variety. Matures late in the season. Tolerates cold very well. Harvest in late summer and fall. 68 days.

Apollo: A cross between Calabrese and Chinese Kale. 24” tall plants are great for small gardens. Produces long, tender stalks. Harvest main head for lots of side shoots. Heavy producer. 80 days.

Summer Purple Broccoli

Summer Purple: Sprouting variety. Produces bright pink to dark violet florets on bright green stalks. Heat and cold tolerant. 120 days.

Non-Hybrid Broccoli Varieties

Waltham: Produces medium- large heads dark green in color. Plants grow up to 2’ tall. 85 days.

Open Pollinated Broccoli

De Cicco: Italian variety. Produces clusters of 3-4" main heads and lots of side shoots for an extended harvest. Good for spring and fall production. 48 days.

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds

Are You in a New USDA Hardiness Zone?

Image:  USDA-ARS /OSU

Last year, the USDA (U.S. Department of Agriculture) along with the ARS (Agricultural Research Services) and the folks at Ohio State University updated the hardiness zone map. Why? Well, times are changing and so are average minimum temperatures, which happen to be the main factor in determining climate regions.

A Review on USDA Hardiness Zones

To recap, hardiness zones are designated areas where certain plants are suitable for growing. If you’ve ever thumbed through a seed catalog you’ve probably noticed something along the lines of “zones 4-9" under a plant’s description. This tells you that particular plant can handle the average minimum temperature for those hardiness zones, and if you happen to live in one, go ahead and grow it.

Each hardiness zone represents a 10 degree (Fahrenheit) segment. These segments, sometimes called climate regions, extend over several states and provinces. Many states and provinces have more than one hardiness zone, which is why it’s important to consult the USDA hardiness zone map for the climate zone in your area.

The New, Improved USDA Hardiness Zone Map

The new map, updated for the first time in 2012 since 1990, has changed somewhat. Don’t worry, there’s no need to go dig up your perennials and swap out your favorite evergreens for new ones. Perhaps the biggest change are the subsets associated with each hardiness zone. For example, instead of seeing zone 5, you’ll now see zone 5a and 5b.

Why the addition of climate zone subsets? Each subset represents a 5 degree difference in average minimum temperature for that area. Average minimum temperatures are gathered over a period of time so they are more accurate. The USDA hardiness zone map was updated because the earth is warming, changing average minimum temperatures.

Furthermore, internet users are going to find an internet-friendly version of the hardiness zone map online. Each zone is clearly defined on the map; gone are the days where squinting is required to find your climate region on a fuzzy picture. Perhaps one of the best features is the ability to click on a single state and have a large, static map pop up for easier viewing.

Not sure which new hardiness zone you’re in? Simply visit the map, type in your zip code and the map will generate your zone for you. It’s as simple as clicking a few buttons and hitting the enter key.

If you haven’t already, check out the new USDA hardiness zone map and choose your plants accordingly. I don’t think you’ll have to make any significant changes in your gardening. I’ve already started planning my garden and making lists of the vegetables and varieties I want to plant. Have you?

Finally, A Real Maine Winter

Nemo 2013

As Nemo becomes a storm to remember, we Mainers are pretty much dug out, have already been to the grocery store for that odd loaf of bread and are gearing up to deal with whatever Mother Nature hands us next. After leaving us with a whopping 25 inches of snow, we’re being treated with another round of the white fluffy stuff today. What’s a few more inches of snow right?

While I personally slept through the worst of the blizzard, I was delighted to finally see some good ole' sliding snow when I woke on Saturday morning. Though the only way I would have made it down the driveway was in my snowshoes, I still had power and couldn't see any damage to the house. As I went online in anticipation of all the "Nemo" pictures people posted on social media, I couldn't help but get annoyed with a few posts I saw.

One person, who shall remain nameless, was busy bragging about their trip to the store asking who the brave one was. I wanted to reply, but thinking better of it, thought to myself, who's the smart one for staying home and out of the way of the plow trucks, sanders and dump trucks trying their best to clear the roads after an already long night of plowing? Barring some emergency or absolutely having to get to work, this person was basically in the way and creating a dangerous situation.

Knowing people first hand who are in charge of plowing and sanding the city streets, I tend to get annoyed when a wicked storm blows through and people are out driving or walking around for the heck of it. Considering all the snow we had, people out walking were in the way of the plow trucks who hardly had a place to push the snow to begin with, and then had to contend with not burying pedestrians alive in the snow bank. As for the drivers who got stuck and caused accidents further turning dangerous streets even more treacherous, was it worth it?

Sorry about the rant there, but when a storm the size of Nemo hits and you don't have to go out, then don't. There's a reason why weather forecasters and mayors tell you to stay home. Not only is it dangerous for you to be on the roads, you're putting other people in danger as well and hindering public works' effort to clean the roads making them safe and passable again. 

On a lighter note, if you’ve never been to Maine you can always tell when a snow storm is on the way without having to listen to the weather. You’ll see lots of pickups driving around with snow plows on, car dealerships will have moved their inventory to the back of the lot and only the bravest of the brave venture into the grocery store among the hoards of people who have apparently forgotten what a real Maine winter is like.

It may be a little hard to see turning out of some streets thanks to the monstrous snow banks due to the fact that there simply isn’t any room to push the snow, but I’d say all in all, Mainer’s have pulled through the blizzard and didn’t let Nemo get the best of them. A big thanks to all the city workers (people who plow and sand etc.), emergency personnel, CMP (Central Maine Power Co.) and residents who used there heads and stayed home for keeping our family, friends and neighbors safe.    

How to Grow Beets in the North

Chioggia Guardsmark

Beets are a multi-purpose vegetable that are easy to grow in the north under the right conditions and with the proper care. They’re edible from top to bottom from their young greens to mature roots. Whether planting to eat fresh or for pickling, follow the proper growing requirements and choose a suitable variety to ensure a healthy and abundant crop.

Plant Type: Annual
Genus: Goose root family
Name: Beta vulgaris

Growing Requirements for the North

When to Plant: Plant when soil temperatures have warmed to 65-75°F and all danger of frost has past.

Light Requirement: Full sun

Soil Type: A mix of sand and loam that is deep and well draining to allow beet roots to easily push through the soil and avoid root rot. The garden bed should be twice as deep as the beets at full maturity. Beet size is found on the backs of seed packets or in seed catalogs. Never use clay or compacted soils as these will inhibit beet root growth.

Spacing: Consult the sowing directions on the back of the seed packet to ensure proper spacing. Typically, beets are spaced 8-12" apart and ½ -1" deep. This may vary depending on the variety. Direct sow seeds in the ground. Beets do not transplant well and have plenty of time to grow in the north’s short growing season. To save time sowing, buy ready made seed tapes or make your own.

Watering: Keep beets evenly watered making sure not to over do it. Keep an eye on the soil to make sure it doesn’t harden between waterings. If the soil starts to crack, the soil is too dry.

Weeding: Carefully pull all weeds making sure not to disturb the beet root.

Mulching: Mulch around beets after thinning to control weeds and keep the soil moist. 

Garden Pest and Disease Control

Keep an eye out for Spinach Leaf Miners and Leaf Spots. Leaf miners leave behind squiggly lines yellow in color. They mostly damage beet greens. To get rid of these pests organically, treat the greens with neem oil or introduce Diglyphus isaea wasps into the garden. These wasps will happily feed on leaf miners.(gardeningknowhow.com)

To identify leaf spot on beets, look for tannish-brown spots (color may vary) that will spread over time diminishing the amount of sugar in the beets and often times killing off foliage if the infestation is severe. Be proactive by planting leaf spot resistant varieties and rotating the crop. If a severe infestation occurs, fungicidal spray may help. (cals.uidaho.edu)

How to Harvest Beets

Harvesting beets can be done in two phases depending on whether or not the greens are harvested as well as the root. To harvest young greens, snip when at the desired size leaving 1-2" of the greens in place. To harvest the roots, grasp the greens near their base and twist and pull. Some beets show their tops when ready for harvest. Consult the seed packet once again for days to harvest for a good idea of when they’ll be ready. Beets typically take between 50-65 days to mature depending on the variety.

Beet Varieties to Grow in the North

Types of Beets

Round: Roots grow wider rather than longer making them round in shape.
Cylindrical: Roots grow longer rather than wider making them cylindrical in shape.

List of Beet Varieties by Type

Round Beet Varieties

Detroit Dark Red

Perfected Detroit: Grows uniform in size and color. Deep red with no rings or streaks. Sweet flavor great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 58 days.

Harrier Hybrid: Provides a richly sweet, buttery flavor. Grows to softball size. Great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 50 days.

Ruby Queen: Early variety. Roots are smoothed skinned and tender. Beets are deep red without rings. Colors holds up through processing. 52 days.

Moneta: Roots are uniform in size with a smooth texture. No need to thin these deep colored beets. Produces medium-tall greens. 46 days.

Merlin: Round roots grow uniform in size and are deep red in color. High sugar content. A good bunching beet. Shows some resistance to Downy Mildew and Cercospora.

Red Ace: Uniform in size and deep red in color. Sweet and tender. Expect rapid root growth. Greens are medium-tall with red veins. Can be bunched. 50 days.

Touchtone Gold: Gold colored beets remain gold even after cooking. Provides a sweet flavor and smooth texture. 55 days.

Blankoma: Roots are white and slightly conical. Tall, strong, green tops. 55 days.

Chioggia Guardsmark: Improved skin color with candy striping. Tolerates bolting. 55 days.

Egyptian Flat TF 68:  Early harvest - great for multiple plantings in the north. Roots grow 3-5” and are flattened. Great for serving whole. Very sweet. Prefers sandy soil. 50 days.

Red Cloud Hybrid: Improved Red Ace variety. Smooth, glossy, round roots are dark red. Rich in flavor. 60 days.

Aviv: Uniform in size. Edible from top to bottom. Winner of many taste tests. Dark red roots grow 2-4” with 20-24” tops. Great for canning. 60 days.

Boro Hybrid Organic: Certified organic variety. High-producing for both spring and fall crops. Uniform, deep-red roots grow mid-size. A top choice for pickling. 75 days.

Detroit Dark Red: All-purpose variety. Smooth, scarlet roots grow mid-size and are sweet and tender. Produces short tops. 60 days.

Bull’s Blood: All-purpose variety. Bulbs are sweet and firm, tops dark red and great for eating fresh. Tops - 35 days, Roots - 55 days.

Early Wonder Tall Top: Early variety. Roots grow to 3” and tops grow 18” tall and are great in salads. Roots have red skins and white insides with red stripes. 48-60 days.

Cylindrical Beet Varieties

Forono: Cylindrical variety. Sugary and sweet tasting. Slices round. Resists bolting. Holds up to a delayed harvest. 60 days.

Cylindra: Roots grow on average to 5" long and 2" wide. Large tops can be bunched. Easy to evenly slice. Great for cooking and canning. Resists Scab and Cercospora well. Good taste. 54 days.

Related Articles

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch

List of Beet Varieties and Types

Chioggia Guardsmark

When it comes to choosing a beet variety to grow, there are a few things to consider. Are the beets for eating fresh, canning or both? Will the tops be eaten as well? How long is the growing season? Consider these factors when choosing a variety to grow.

Types of Beets

Round: Roots grow wider rather than longer making them round in shape.
Cylindrical: Roots grow longer rather than wider making them cylindrical in shape.

List of Beet Varieties by Type

Round Beet Varieties

Detroit Dark Red

Perfected Detroit: Grows uniform in size and color. Deep red with no rings or streaks. Sweet flavor great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 58 days.

Harrier Hybrid: Provides a richly sweet, buttery flavor. Grows to softball size. Great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 50 days.

Ruby Queen: Early variety. Roots are smoothed skinned and tender. Beets are deep red without rings. Colors holds up through processing. 52 days.

Moneta: Roots are uniform in size with a smooth texture. No need to thin these deep colored beets. Produces medium-tall greens. 46 days.

Merlin: Round roots grow uniform in size and are deep red in color. High sugar content. A good bunching beet. Shows some resistance to Downy Mildew and Cercospora.

Red Ace: Uniform in size and deep red in color. Sweet and tender. Expect rapid root growth. Greens are medium-tall with red veins. Can be bunched. 50 days.

Touchtone Gold: Gold colored beets remain gold even after cooking. Provides a sweet flavor and smooth texture. 55 days.

Blankoma: Roots are white and slightly conical. Tall, strong, green tops. 55 days.

Chioggia Guardsmark: Improved skin color with candy striping. Tolerates bolting. 55 days.

Egyptian Flat TF 68:  Early harvest - great for multiple plantings in the north. Roots grow 3-5” and are flattened. Great for serving whole. Very sweet. Prefers sandy soil. 50 days.

Red Cloud Hybrid: Improved Red Ace variety. Smooth, glossy, round roots are dark red. Rich in flavor. 60 days.

Aviv: Uniform in size. Edible from top to bottom. Winner of many taste tests. Dark red roots grow 2-4” with 20-24” tops. Great for canning. 60 days.

Boro Hybrid Organic: Certified organic variety. High-producing for both spring and fall crops. Uniform, deep-red roots grow mid-size. A top choice for pickling. 75 days.

Detroit Dark Red: All-purpose variety. Smooth, scarlet roots grow mid-size and are sweet and tender. Produces short tops. 60 days.

Bull’s Blood: All-purpose variety. Bulbs are sweet and firm, tops dark red and great for eating fresh. Tops - 35 days, Roots - 55 days.

Early Wonder Tall Top: Early variety. Roots grow to 3” and tops grow 18” tall and are great in salads. Roots have red skins and white insides with red stripes. 48-60 days.

Cylindrical Beet Varieties

Forono: Cylindrical variety. Sugary and sweet tasting. Slices round. Resists bolting. Holds up to a delayed harvest. 60 days.

Cylindra: Roots grow on average to 5" long and 2" wide. Large tops can be bunched. Easy to evenly slice. Great for cooking and canning. Resists Scab and Cercospora well. Good taste. 54 days.