Varieties of Brussels Sprouts

Bitesize Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts come in several varieties to suit the tastes and growing seasons of gardeners. Some mature earlier than others and offer an extended harvest. No matter which variety of Brussels sprouts are grown, they should always be harvested from bottom to top.

Royal Marvel Hybrid Brussels Sprouts: Extra-early variety. Produces high yields of 1 inch sprouts dark green in color. Provides great taste as well as texture. Tastes great fresh or frozen. 85 days.

Diablo

Churchill: Early variety. Produces, large, smooth, flavorful sprouts medium-green in color. Adapts well to different climates. Vigorous grower. 90 days.

Long Island Improved: Early variety. Produces 1 inch sprouts on 24 inch tall plants. Sprouts are firm. Prolific grower. Extended harvest. Freezes well. 90 days.

Nautic Brussels Sprouts: High-yielding especially in the north where fall is cool. Produces flavorful, medium-sized sprouts light green in color. Tolerates cold. Harvest in late fall. 105 days.

Falstaff

Diablo: Heavy-yielding. Produces smooth, medium-sized sprouts. Tolerates cold well. Great for fall harvest. 110 days.

Bitesize Brussels Sprouts: Gourmet variety. Produces mini sprouts packed with peppery flavor getting sweeter after frost. 120 days.

Falstaff Brussels Sprouts: Purplish-red variety. Produces sprouts with a mild, nutty flavor. Slow to mature. Color keeps after cooking. 125 days.

Vegetable Growing Guides for the North

I’m putting together a list of vegetable growing guides tailored for the north. I thought winter would the perfect time to get started on this project. As you can see, this is a work in progress. As I add new guides to Gibby’s Garden each week, I’ll link them from this page as well. Please come back often to check out the new guides or to leave me questions or comments.

Artichokes

How to Grow Artichokes in the North
Types and Varieties of Artichoke

Asparagus

How to Grow Asparagus in the North
Types and Varieties of Asparagus

Beans

How to Grow Beans in the North
Types and Varieties of Beans

Beets

How to Grow Beets in the North
Types and Varieties of Beets

Broccoli

How to Grow Broccoli in the North
Best Broccoli Varieties to Grow in the North
Types and Varieties of Broccoli

Brussels Sprouts

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in the North

Best Varieties of Brussels Sprouts to Grow in the North

How to Grow Broccoli in the North

Coronado Crown

Broccoli grows very well in the north because it’s a cool-season vegetable but due to the short growing season, it’s important to choose an early variety. (See below) It’s best to use nursery bought transplants or start seeds indoors. I’m happy to report that last year I harvested broccoli well into November before my plants died off.

Plant Type: Annual
Genus: Cabbage Family
Name: Brassica oleracea
Zones: 3-10

How to Start Broccoli Seeds Indoors

Supplies Needed

• Starter Trays or Pots
• Broccoli Seeds
• Mix of Sandy, Loamy Soil w/Organic Matter

Directions

• Start broccoli  indoors 2-3 weeks before last spring frost
• Fill trays or pots ¾ of the way with soil
• Plant 2-3 seeds per pot according to depth instructions on back of seed packet
• Loosely top with soil
• Water 
• Keep seedlings watered. If soil hardens and cracks, water more often
• After seedlings sprout, thin to 1 per pot or every 1-1 ½ inches
• Harden off broccoli seedlings at 6-8 weeks old before transplanting outdoors

How to Grow Broccoli Outdoors

When to Plant: Transplant up to 2 weeks after last scheduled spring frost

Light Requirements: Full sun

Soil Type: Mix of loamy/sandy soil mixed with compost or year-old manure

Spacing: Space broccoli seedlings 24” apart - do not cage

Watering: Keep soil moist and well-watered. Spare heads while watering to prevent rot

Fertilization: Fertilize with organic matter 3 weeks after transplanting

Weeding: Take care when weeding to not disturb shallow broccoli roots

Mulching: Mulch 2-3 inches around and in between broccoli plants to keep weeds down and retain moisture in soil. Mulch also helps keep soil temperatures cooler

Garden Pest and Disease Control

Imported Cabbageworms: Look for larvae (caterpillars) that are green in color with  yellow stripes down their backs. Adults are 1 ½ inch butterflies. Imported cabbageworms leave behind large holes in broccoli leaves and green-black frass (droppings). Handpick worms and cocoons from backside of leaves and drown in soapy water.

Cabbage Loopers: Larvae are 1 ½ inch long worms with two white or yellow lines down their backs. Control using the same method as imported cabbageworms.

Aphids: Look for tiny, pear-shaped yellow, green or brown insects with long antennae and legs. Treat by spraying with a mixture of 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and ½ teaspoon of liquid soap mixed into a quart of water (shake well before using).

White Flies: Look for powdery-white, ½0 of an inch long flies on the undersides of leaves. They leave behind clusters of white rings with dark centers. Control with yellow sticky traps or insecticidal soap.

Flea Beetles: Adults are 1/10 of an inch long and bronze, brown or black in color with long legs. They leave behind lots of small holes in broccoli leaves. Gently cultivate soil around plants to kill flea eggs. Control adults with floating row covers.

Downy Mildew: Look for yellow patches on leaves. Mildew is typically caused by too much moistness. Avoid spraying broccoli leaves when watering. Plant downy mildew resistant varieties.

Nitrogen Deficiency: Leaves yellow starting at the bottom and working up. Treat deficiency with composted manure, a fertilizer high in nitrogen but low in phosphorus or Blood Meal.

Clubroot: Caused by a fungus. Stop fungus from spreading by digging up and removing all broccoli roots and tendrils. Place in plastic bags and dispose - do not add to compost or fungus may be left behind. Test soil pH and raise above 7.2 if need be.

How to Harvest Broccoli

Harvest the main heads of broccoli while buds are tight and before they yellow or flower. Cut stems at a slant 5 inches below heads with a sharp knife. Continue cutting all side shoots to encourage an extended harvest.

Storage

Rinse and dry heads before storing in fridge for up to 5 days. Blanch and freeze up to a year for longer storage.

Last year I had what I thought was a bright idea at the time. After transplanting my seedlings in the garden, I placed a tomato cage around each plant. My reasoning was, since broccoli plants have shallow root systems and mature plants tend

Related Articles

List of Broccoli Types and Varieties

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)
How to Blanch and Freeze Vegetables

Varieties of Broccoli to Grow in the North

Apollo Broccoli

There are plenty of broccoli varieties to grow in the north. The best one’s have shorter days to maturity. Always start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date or buy transplants from the local plant nursery for a healthy and productive harvest in the north.

Mini Broccoli Varieties (Broccoli X Gailon)

Happy Rich: Produces large florets sweet in flavor. Plants are dark green with lots of side shoots. 55 days.

Atlantis: High yield potential. Florets are even bigger than “Happy Rich.” Harvest mature head to encourage side shoots to grow for an additional 4-6 weeks. Slightly sweet flavor. 60 days.

Broccoli Raab Varieties

Sessantina Grossa: Early variety. Shoots and buds are thick and tender, resembling “mini” versions of full-sized broccoli. Best when used for an early harvest. 35 days.

Spring Raab: Best pick for growing and harvesting all season long. Large plants mature late. Great for pairing with Sessantina Grossa for extended harvest. 42 days.

Spigariello Liscia: Leaf variety grown similar to broccoli raab. Individual leaves or bunches can be harvested. If left to mature, mini broccoli heads will form. Sweeter taste. 45 days, 70 days for mini heads.

Full-Sized Broccoli

Green Goliath: Great garden variety. Produces bluish-green heads with tight buds and lots of side shoots. Large heads can be harvested over a 3 week period. 53 days.

Calabrese: Heirloom variety. Produces dark, bluish-green heads averaging 5” across on large 30-36” plants. 60-90 days.

Green Duke: Great southern variety. Vigorous grower producing high yields of dome shaped heads. Tolerates heat well. 70 days.

Broccoli Hybrids

Blue Wind: Early variety. Produces medium-sized blueish green heads. Uniform in size. Easy to harvest. 49 days.


Flash: Early variety. Produces bluish-green heads sweeter in flavor than most. Tolerates heat and Downy mildew. 50 days.

Amadeus: Early variety. Produces medium-sized heads blueish-green in color. Produces lots of side shoots. Attractive heads look good at markets with fine beads and uniform shape. Plants are medium-sized and vigorous. 56 days.

Green Magic: Early variety. Produces smooth, uniform heads that are attractive to look at in markets. Plants are medium-sized. 57 days.

Packman Broccoli

Packman Broccoli: Early Variety. High-yielding. Produces  8” dark-green domed heads with medium-large beads. Lots of side shoots. Freezes well. Tolerates heat. 57 days.

Premium Crop: Early variety. Produces 9” heads with tight beads. Plants can grow up to 2’ tall. Flavorful. 58 days.

Gypsy: Early variety. Produces uniform, well-domed heads with a medium-large bead size. Stems are medium in size. Produces a good amount of side shoots. Plants grow large and resist downy mildew well and have a good heat tolerance. 58 days.

Coronado Crown Broccoli

Coronado Crown: Great northern/southern variety. Produces solid, dome-shaped heads with tender, stringless stems. Produces lots of side shoots. Tolerates heat well. Freezes well. 58 days.

Green Magic: Produces blueish-green heads uniform in size and full of flavor. Tolerates downy mildew. Freezes well. 60 days.

Bay Meadows: Adaptable variety. Produces blueish-green heads with good domes. 60 days.

Arcadia: Cold variety. Produces firm, dark-green heads with a frosted look. Grows vigorously maturing mid to late season. Resists downy mildew, head rot & brown heads. Tolerates stress and cold well. 63 days.

Batavia: Produces dark-green heads with tight, medium beads. Adapts well. Resists powdery mildew. Heat and cold tolerant. 65 days.

Belstar Broccoli

Belstar: Adaptable variety. Produces medium-green heads with good domes and medium beads. Good shoot production. Tolerates stress well. 66 days.

Diplomat: A great variety for the north. Produces dense, dark-green heads medium-large in size with small beads. Good for bunching or crown cutting. Resists downy mildew well. 68 days.

Marathon: Fall/winter variety. Matures late in the season. Tolerates cold very well. Harvest in late summer and fall. 68 days.

Apollo: A cross between Calabrese and Chinese Kale. 24” tall plants are great for small gardens. Produces long, tender stalks. Harvest main head for lots of side shoots. Heavy producer. 80 days.

Open Pollinated Broccoli

De Cicco: Italian variety. Produces clusters of 3-4" main heads and lots of side shoots for an extended harvest. Good for spring and fall production. 48 days.

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Best Broccoli Varieties to Grow in the North

Apollo Broccoli

There are plenty of broccoli varieties to grow in the north. The best one’s have shorter days to maturity. Always start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date or buy transplants from the local plant nursery for a healthy and productive harvest in the north.

Mini Broccoli Varieties (Broccoli X Gailon)

Happy Rich: Produces large florets sweet in flavor. Plants are dark green with lots of side shoots. 55 days.

Atlantis: High yield potential. Florets are even bigger than “Happy Rich.” Harvest mature head to encourage side shoots to grow for an additional 4-6 weeks. Slightly sweet flavor. 60 days.

Broccoli Raab Varieties

Sessantina Grossa: Early variety. Shoots and buds are thick and tender, resembling “mini” versions of full-sized broccoli. Best when used for an early harvest. 35 days.

Spring Raab: Best pick for growing and harvesting all season long. Large plants mature late. Great for pairing with Sessantina Grossa for extended harvest. 42 days.

Spigariello Liscia: Leaf variety grown similar to broccoli raab. Individual leaves or bunches can be harvested. If left to mature, mini broccoli heads will form. Sweeter taste. 45 days, 70 days for mini heads.

Full-Sized Broccoli

Green Goliath: Great garden variety. Produces bluish-green heads with tight buds and lots of side shoots. Large heads can be harvested over a 3 week period. 53 days.

Calabrese: Heirloom variety. Produces dark, bluish-green heads averaging 5” across on large 30-36” plants. 60-90 days.

Green Duke: Great southern variety. Vigorous grower producing high yields of dome shaped heads. Tolerates heat well. 70 days.

Broccoli Hybrids

Blue Wind: Early variety. Produces medium-sized blueish green heads. Uniform in size. Easy to harvest. 49 days.

Flash: Early variety. Produces bluish-green heads sweeter in flavor than most. Tolerates heat and Downy mildew. 50 days.

Amadeus: Early variety. Produces medium-sized heads blueish-green in color. Produces lots of side shoots. Attractive heads look good at markets with fine beads and uniform shape. Plants are medium-sized and vigorous. 56 days.

Green Magic: Early variety. Produces smooth, uniform heads that are attractive to look at in markets. Plants are medium-sized. 57 days.

Packman Broccoli

Packman Broccoli: Early Variety. High-yielding. Produces  8” dark-green domed heads with medium-large beads. Lots of side shoots. Freezes well. Tolerates heat. 57 days.

Premium Crop: Early variety. Produces 9” heads with tight beads. Plants can grow up to 2’ tall. Flavorful. 58 days.

Gypsy: Early variety. Produces uniform, well-domed heads with a medium-large bead size. Stems are medium in size. Produces a good amount of side shoots. Plants grow large and resist downy mildew well and have a good heat tolerance. 58 days.

Coronado Crown Broccoli

Coronado Crown: Great northern/southern variety. Produces solid, dome-shaped heads with tender, stringless stems. Produces lots of side shoots. Tolerates heat well. Freezes well. 58 days.

Green Magic: Produces blueish-green heads uniform in size and full of flavor. Tolerates downy mildew. Freezes well. 60 days.

Bay Meadows: Adaptable variety. Produces blueish-green heads with good domes. 60 days.

Arcadia: Cold variety. Produces firm, dark-green heads with a frosted look. Grows vigorously maturing mid to late season. Resists downy mildew, head rot & brown heads. Tolerates stress and cold well. 63 days.

Batavia: Produces dark-green heads with tight, medium beads. Adapts well. Resists powdery mildew. Heat and cold tolerant. 65 days.

Belstar Broccoli

Belstar: Adaptable variety. Produces medium-green heads with good domes and medium beads. Good shoot production. Tolerates stress well. 66 days.

Diplomat: A great variety for the north. Produces dense, dark-green heads medium-large in size with small beads. Good for bunching or crown cutting. Resists downy mildew well. 68 days.

Marathon: Fall/winter variety. Matures late in the season. Tolerates cold very well. Harvest in late summer and fall. 68 days.

Apollo: A cross between Calabrese and Chinese Kale. 24” tall plants are great for small gardens. Produces long, tender stalks. Harvest main head for lots of side shoots. Heavy producer. 80 days.

Open Pollinated Broccoli

De Cicco: Italian variety. Produces clusters of 3-4" main heads and lots of side shoots for an extended harvest. Good for spring and fall production. 48 days.

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds 

Types and Varieties of Broccoli

Belstar Broccoli

Types of Broccoli

Mini Broccoli: Entire bunch is harvested when buds appear or buds are harvested for an extended harvest. Buds form instead of full-sized heads.

Broccoli Raab: Edible leafy shoots and clumped flower buds that are sometimes bitter in taste.

Full-Sized Broccoli: Large plants that produce full-sized heads and lots of side shoots after main head has been harvested.

List of Broccoli Varieties

Mini Broccoli Varieties (Broccoli X Gailon)

Happy Rich: Produces large florets sweet in flavor. Plants are dark green with lots of side shoots. 55 days.

Atlantis: High yield potential. Florets are even bigger than “Happy Rich.” Harvest mature head to encourage side shoots to grow for an additional 4-6 weeks. Slightly sweet flavor. 60 days.

Santee: (sprouting broccoli) Produces sweet and tender purple florets with green stems. (Florets turn green after cooking.) Good for bunching. Harvest heads when mini in size. Grows best in cooler climates. Hot weather turns broccoli bitter. Produces for 3-5 weeks. 80-115 days.

Broccoli Raab Varieties

Sessantina Grossa: Early variety. Shoots and buds are thick and tender, resembling “mini” versions of full-sized broccoli. Best when used for an early harvest. 35 days.

Spring Raab: Best pick for growing and harvesting all season long. Large plants mature late. Great for pairing with Sessantina Grossa for extended harvest. 42 days.

Spigariello Liscia: Leaf variety grown similar to broccoli raab. Individual leaves or bunches can be harvested. If left to mature, mini broccoli heads will form. Sweetetaste. 45 days, 70 days for mini heads.

Full-Sized Broccoli

Green Goliath: Great garden variety. Produces bluish-green heads with tight buds and lots of side shoots. Large heads can be harvested over a 3 week period. 53 days.

Calabrese: Heirloom variety. Produces dark, bluish-green heads averaging 5” across on large 30-36” plants. 60-90 days.

Green Duke: Great southern variety. Vigorous grower producing high yields of dome shaped heads. Tolerates heat well. 70 days.

Broccoli Hybrids

Blue Wind: Early variety. Produces medium-sized blueish green heads. Uniform in size. Easy to harvest. 49 days.


Flash: Early variety. Produces bluish-green heads sweeter in flavor than most. Tolerates heat and Downy mildew. 50 days.

Amadeus: Early variety. Produces medium-sized heads blueish-green in color. Produces lots of side shoots. Attractive heads look good at markets with fine beads and uniform shape. Plants are medium-sized and vigorous. 56 days.

Packman Broccoli

Green Magic: Early variety. Produces smooth, uniform heads that are attractive to look at in markets. Plants are medium-sized. 57 days.

Packman Broccoli: Early Variety. High-yielding. Produces  8” dark-green domed heads with medium-large beads. Lots of side shoots. Freezes well. Tolerates heat. 57 days.

Premium Crop: Early variety. Produces 9” heads with tight beads. Plants can grow up to 2’ tall. Flavorful. 58 days.

Gypsy: Early variety. Produces uniform, well-domed heads with a medium-large bead size. Stems are medium in size. Produces a good amount of side shoots. Plants grow large and resist downy mildew well and have a good heat tolerance. 58 days.

Coronado Crown Broccoli

Coronado Crown: Great northern/southern variety. Produces solid, dome-shaped heads with tender, stringless stems. Produces lots of side shoots. Tolerates heat well. Freezes well. 58 days.

Green Magic: Produces blueish-green heads uniform in size and full of flavor. Tolerates downy mildew. Freezes well. 60 days.

Bay Meadows: Adaptable variety. Produces blueish-green heads with good domes. 60 days.

Arcadia: Cold variety. Produces firm, dark-green heads with a frosted look. Grows vigorously maturing mid to late season. Resists downy mildew, head rot & brown heads. Tolerates stress and cold well. 63 days.

Batavia: Produces dark-green heads with tight, medium beads. Adapts well. Resists powdery mildew. Heat and cold tolerant. 65 days.

Belstar Broccoli

Belstar: Adaptable variety. Produces medium-green heads with good domes and medium beads. Good shoot production. Tolerates stress well. 66 days.

Diplomat: A great variety for the north. Produces dense, dark-green heads medium-large in size with small beads. Good for bunching or crown cutting. Resists downy mildew well. 68 days.

Marathon: Fall/winter variety. Matures late in the season. Tolerates cold very well. Harvest in late summer and fall. 68 days.

Apollo: A cross between Calabrese and Chinese Kale. 24” tall plants are great for small gardens. Produces long, tender stalks. Harvest main head for lots of side shoots. Heavy producer. 80 days.

Summer Purple Broccoli

Summer Purple: Sprouting variety. Produces bright pink to dark violet florets on bright green stalks. Heat and cold tolerant. 120 days.

Non-Hybrid Broccoli Varieties

Waltham: Produces medium- large heads dark green in color. Plants grow up to 2’ tall. 85 days.

Open Pollinated Broccoli

De Cicco: Italian variety. Produces clusters of 3-4" main heads and lots of side shoots for an extended harvest. Good for spring and fall production. 48 days.

Resources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co., Park Seed Co., Generic Seeds

Are You in a New USDA Hardiness Zone?

Image:  USDA-ARS /OSU

Last year, the USDA (U.S. Department of Agriculture) along with the ARS (Agricultural Research Services) and the folks at Ohio State University updated the hardiness zone map. Why? Well, times are changing and so are average minimum temperatures, which happen to be the main factor in determining climate regions.

A Review on USDA Hardiness Zones

To recap, hardiness zones are designated areas where certain plants are suitable for growing. If you’ve ever thumbed through a seed catalog you’ve probably noticed something along the lines of “zones 4-9" under a plant’s description. This tells you that particular plant can handle the average minimum temperature for those hardiness zones, and if you happen to live in one, go ahead and grow it.

Each hardiness zone represents a 10 degree (Fahrenheit) segment. These segments, sometimes called climate regions, extend over several states and provinces. Many states and provinces have more than one hardiness zone, which is why it’s important to consult the USDA hardiness zone map for the climate zone in your area.

The New, Improved USDA Hardiness Zone Map

The new map, updated for the first time in 2012 since 1990, has changed somewhat. Don’t worry, there’s no need to go dig up your perennials and swap out your favorite evergreens for new ones. Perhaps the biggest change are the subsets associated with each hardiness zone. For example, instead of seeing zone 5, you’ll now see zone 5a and 5b.

Why the addition of climate zone subsets? Each subset represents a 5 degree difference in average minimum temperature for that area. Average minimum temperatures are gathered over a period of time so they are more accurate. The USDA hardiness zone map was updated because the earth is warming, changing average minimum temperatures.

Furthermore, internet users are going to find an internet-friendly version of the hardiness zone map online. Each zone is clearly defined on the map; gone are the days where squinting is required to find your climate region on a fuzzy picture. Perhaps one of the best features is the ability to click on a single state and have a large, static map pop up for easier viewing.

Not sure which new hardiness zone you’re in? Simply visit the map, type in your zip code and the map will generate your zone for you. It’s as simple as clicking a few buttons and hitting the enter key.

If you haven’t already, check out the new USDA hardiness zone map and choose your plants accordingly. I don’t think you’ll have to make any significant changes in your gardening. I’ve already started planning my garden and making lists of the vegetables and varieties I want to plant. Have you?

Finally, A Real Maine Winter

Nemo 2013

As Nemo becomes a storm to remember, we Mainers are pretty much dug out, have already been to the grocery store for that odd loaf of bread and are gearing up to deal with whatever Mother Nature hands us next. After leaving us with a whopping 25 inches of snow, we’re being treated with another round of the white fluffy stuff today. What’s a few more inches of snow right?

While I personally slept through the worst of the blizzard, I was delighted to finally see some good ole' sliding snow when I woke on Saturday morning. Though the only way I would have made it down the driveway was in my snowshoes, I still had power and couldn't see any damage to the house. As I went online in anticipation of all the "Nemo" pictures people posted on social media, I couldn't help but get annoyed with a few posts I saw.

One person, who shall remain nameless, was busy bragging about their trip to the store asking who the brave one was. I wanted to reply, but thinking better of it, thought to myself, who's the smart one for staying home and out of the way of the plow trucks, sanders and dump trucks trying their best to clear the roads after an already long night of plowing? Barring some emergency or absolutely having to get to work, this person was basically in the way and creating a dangerous situation.

Knowing people first hand who are in charge of plowing and sanding the city streets, I tend to get annoyed when a wicked storm blows through and people are out driving or walking around for the heck of it. Considering all the snow we had, people out walking were in the way of the plow trucks who hardly had a place to push the snow to begin with, and then had to contend with not burying pedestrians alive in the snow bank. As for the drivers who got stuck and caused accidents further turning dangerous streets even more treacherous, was it worth it?

Sorry about the rant there, but when a storm the size of Nemo hits and you don't have to go out, then don't. There's a reason why weather forecasters and mayors tell you to stay home. Not only is it dangerous for you to be on the roads, you're putting other people in danger as well and hindering public works' effort to clean the roads making them safe and passable again. 

On a lighter note, if you’ve never been to Maine you can always tell when a snow storm is on the way without having to listen to the weather. You’ll see lots of pickups driving around with snow plows on, car dealerships will have moved their inventory to the back of the lot and only the bravest of the brave venture into the grocery store among the hoards of people who have apparently forgotten what a real Maine winter is like.

It may be a little hard to see turning out of some streets thanks to the monstrous snow banks due to the fact that there simply isn’t any room to push the snow, but I’d say all in all, Mainer’s have pulled through the blizzard and didn’t let Nemo get the best of them. A big thanks to all the city workers (people who plow and sand etc.), emergency personnel, CMP (Central Maine Power Co.) and residents who used there heads and stayed home for keeping our family, friends and neighbors safe.    

How to Grow Beets in the North

Chioggia Guardsmark

Beets are a multi-purpose vegetable that are easy to grow in the north under the right conditions and with the proper care. They’re edible from top to bottom from their young greens to mature roots. Whether planting to eat fresh or for pickling, follow the proper growing requirements and choose a suitable variety to ensure a healthy and abundant crop.

Plant Type: Annual
Genus: Goose root family
Name: Beta vulgaris

Growing Requirements for the North

When to Plant: Plant when soil temperatures have warmed to 65-75°F and all danger of frost has past.

Light Requirement: Full sun

Soil Type: A mix of sand and loam that is deep and well draining to allow beet roots to easily push through the soil and avoid root rot. The garden bed should be twice as deep as the beets at full maturity. Beet size is found on the backs of seed packets or in seed catalogs. Never use clay or compacted soils as these will inhibit beet root growth.

Spacing: Consult the sowing directions on the back of the seed packet to ensure proper spacing. Typically, beets are spaced 8-12" apart and ½ -1" deep. This may vary depending on the variety. Direct sow seeds in the ground. Beets do not transplant well and have plenty of time to grow in the north’s short growing season. To save time sowing, buy ready made seed tapes or make your own.

Watering: Keep beets evenly watered making sure not to over do it. Keep an eye on the soil to make sure it doesn’t harden between waterings. If the soil starts to crack, the soil is too dry.

Weeding: Carefully pull all weeds making sure not to disturb the beet root.

Mulching: Mulch around beets after thinning to control weeds and keep the soil moist. 

Garden Pest and Disease Control

Keep an eye out for Spinach Leaf Miners and Leaf Spots. Leaf miners leave behind squiggly lines yellow in color. They mostly damage beet greens. To get rid of these pests organically, treat the greens with neem oil or introduce Diglyphus isaea wasps into the garden. These wasps will happily feed on leaf miners.(gardeningknowhow.com)

To identify leaf spot on beets, look for tannish-brown spots (color may vary) that will spread over time diminishing the amount of sugar in the beets and often times killing off foliage if the infestation is severe. Be proactive by planting leaf spot resistant varieties and rotating the crop. If a severe infestation occurs, fungicidal spray may help. (cals.uidaho.edu)

How to Harvest Beets

Harvesting beets can be done in two phases depending on whether or not the greens are harvested as well as the root. To harvest young greens, snip when at the desired size leaving 1-2" of the greens in place. To harvest the roots, grasp the greens near their base and twist and pull. Some beets show their tops when ready for harvest. Consult the seed packet once again for days to harvest for a good idea of when they’ll be ready. Beets typically take between 50-65 days to mature depending on the variety.

Beet Varieties to Grow in the North

Types of Beets

Round: Roots grow wider rather than longer making them round in shape.
Cylindrical: Roots grow longer rather than wider making them cylindrical in shape.

List of Beet Varieties by Type

Round Beet Varieties

Detroit Dark Red

Perfected Detroit: Grows uniform in size and color. Deep red with no rings or streaks. Sweet flavor great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 58 days.

Harrier Hybrid: Provides a richly sweet, buttery flavor. Grows to softball size. Great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 50 days.

Ruby Queen: Early variety. Roots are smoothed skinned and tender. Beets are deep red without rings. Colors holds up through processing. 52 days.

Moneta: Roots are uniform in size with a smooth texture. No need to thin these deep colored beets. Produces medium-tall greens. 46 days.

Merlin: Round roots grow uniform in size and are deep red in color. High sugar content. A good bunching beet. Shows some resistance to Downy Mildew and Cercospora.

Red Ace: Uniform in size and deep red in color. Sweet and tender. Expect rapid root growth. Greens are medium-tall with red veins. Can be bunched. 50 days.

Touchtone Gold: Gold colored beets remain gold even after cooking. Provides a sweet flavor and smooth texture. 55 days.

Blankoma: Roots are white and slightly conical. Tall, strong, green tops. 55 days.

Chioggia Guardsmark: Improved skin color with candy striping. Tolerates bolting. 55 days.

Egyptian Flat TF 68:  Early harvest - great for multiple plantings in the north. Roots grow 3-5” and are flattened. Great for serving whole. Very sweet. Prefers sandy soil. 50 days.

Red Cloud Hybrid: Improved Red Ace variety. Smooth, glossy, round roots are dark red. Rich in flavor. 60 days.

Aviv: Uniform in size. Edible from top to bottom. Winner of many taste tests. Dark red roots grow 2-4” with 20-24” tops. Great for canning. 60 days.

Boro Hybrid Organic: Certified organic variety. High-producing for both spring and fall crops. Uniform, deep-red roots grow mid-size. A top choice for pickling. 75 days.

Detroit Dark Red: All-purpose variety. Smooth, scarlet roots grow mid-size and are sweet and tender. Produces short tops. 60 days.

Bull’s Blood: All-purpose variety. Bulbs are sweet and firm, tops dark red and great for eating fresh. Tops - 35 days, Roots - 55 days.

Early Wonder Tall Top: Early variety. Roots grow to 3” and tops grow 18” tall and are great in salads. Roots have red skins and white insides with red stripes. 48-60 days.

Cylindrical Beet Varieties

Forono: Cylindrical variety. Sugary and sweet tasting. Slices round. Resists bolting. Holds up to a delayed harvest. 60 days.

Cylindra: Roots grow on average to 5" long and 2" wide. Large tops can be bunched. Easy to evenly slice. Great for cooking and canning. Resists Scab and Cercospora well. Good taste. 54 days.

Related Articles

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch

List of Beet Varieties and Types

Chioggia Guardsmark

When it comes to choosing a beet variety to grow, there are a few things to consider. Are the beets for eating fresh, canning or both? Will the tops be eaten as well? How long is the growing season? Consider these factors when choosing a variety to grow.

Types of Beets

Round: Roots grow wider rather than longer making them round in shape.
Cylindrical: Roots grow longer rather than wider making them cylindrical in shape.

List of Beet Varieties by Type

Round Beet Varieties

Detroit Dark Red

Perfected Detroit: Grows uniform in size and color. Deep red with no rings or streaks. Sweet flavor great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 58 days.

Harrier Hybrid: Provides a richly sweet, buttery flavor. Grows to softball size. Great for eating fresh, pickling and canning. 50 days.

Ruby Queen: Early variety. Roots are smoothed skinned and tender. Beets are deep red without rings. Colors holds up through processing. 52 days.

Moneta: Roots are uniform in size with a smooth texture. No need to thin these deep colored beets. Produces medium-tall greens. 46 days.

Merlin: Round roots grow uniform in size and are deep red in color. High sugar content. A good bunching beet. Shows some resistance to Downy Mildew and Cercospora.

Red Ace: Uniform in size and deep red in color. Sweet and tender. Expect rapid root growth. Greens are medium-tall with red veins. Can be bunched. 50 days.

Touchtone Gold: Gold colored beets remain gold even after cooking. Provides a sweet flavor and smooth texture. 55 days.

Blankoma: Roots are white and slightly conical. Tall, strong, green tops. 55 days.

Chioggia Guardsmark: Improved skin color with candy striping. Tolerates bolting. 55 days.

Egyptian Flat TF 68:  Early harvest - great for multiple plantings in the north. Roots grow 3-5” and are flattened. Great for serving whole. Very sweet. Prefers sandy soil. 50 days.

Red Cloud Hybrid: Improved Red Ace variety. Smooth, glossy, round roots are dark red. Rich in flavor. 60 days.

Aviv: Uniform in size. Edible from top to bottom. Winner of many taste tests. Dark red roots grow 2-4” with 20-24” tops. Great for canning. 60 days.

Boro Hybrid Organic: Certified organic variety. High-producing for both spring and fall crops. Uniform, deep-red roots grow mid-size. A top choice for pickling. 75 days.

Detroit Dark Red: All-purpose variety. Smooth, scarlet roots grow mid-size and are sweet and tender. Produces short tops. 60 days.

Bull’s Blood: All-purpose variety. Bulbs are sweet and firm, tops dark red and great for eating fresh. Tops - 35 days, Roots - 55 days.

Early Wonder Tall Top: Early variety. Roots grow to 3” and tops grow 18” tall and are great in salads. Roots have red skins and white insides with red stripes. 48-60 days.

Cylindrical Beet Varieties

Forono: Cylindrical variety. Sugary and sweet tasting. Slices round. Resists bolting. Holds up to a delayed harvest. 60 days.

Cylindra: Roots grow on average to 5" long and 2" wide. Large tops can be bunched. Easy to evenly slice. Great for cooking and canning. Resists Scab and Cercospora well. Good taste. 54 days.

How to Grow Beans in the North

Flowering Beans - Gibby's Garden

Beans are an easy vegetable to grow in the north, as well as in other regions of the country. There is no need to start seeds indoors, simply pick a variety or two and direct-sow them. Simply sow seeds in the right soil and under the right conditions to enjoy a bountiful crop of fresh, organic beans straight from the garden.

Plant Type: Annual
Genus: Fabaceae Family
Name: Phaseolus vulgaris

Guide to Growing Beans in the North

When growing different types of beans, always consult the back of the seed packet to ensure proper spacing and support requirements for each variety. Beans do not need to be started indoors because A - they don’t transplant well, and B - they produce early enough to accommodate the North’s growing season.

Where to Plant: Plant in full-sun in well-draining, loamy soil.

Plant Spacing: Follow specific spacing instructions on the back of the seed packet as different types and varieties of beans differ in spacing requirements. For example, bush beans are typically spaced 3" apart while pole beans are spaced 3" apart. Most varieties of pole beans will need to grow along a support such as a trellis or fence.

Fertilization: If need be, till compost or an organic fertilizer light in nitrogen. Soil with high levels of nitrogen produce bigger, fuller plants and fewer beans compared to soil with normal nitrogen levels.

Watering: Water beans regularly, making sure to water on sunny days in the early mornings.

Care: Mulch around beans to prevent weeds and retain moisture. Beans have shallow root systems so take care when weeding as to not disturb the plant’s roots. 

How to Harvest Beans

Harvest when beans have reached their maturity by plucking from the plant. Over-mature beans get tough and woody. Allow the beans to reach their full length and color before harvesting. Some varieties of beans can be harvested before they are mature for more tender beans. Consult the back of the seed packet for days to maturity. 

Pest and Disease Control

Beans are known for attracting 3 types of “bad” bugs: aphids, Japanese beetles and Mexican bean beetles. Handpick the pests and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. If a severe aphid infestation occurs, lightly spray beans with a mild, soapy water in the early mornings to kill off and prevent aphids.  

Bean Mosiac and Downy Mildew are 2 viruses to watch out for when it comes to beans. Plant varieties resistant to these diseases which includes many heirloom varieties. Check the backs of seed packets as well as descriptions in seed catalogs to ensure disease resistance.

When it comes to garden pests, aphids are the ones to watch out for. Inspect the undersides of leaves on bean plants and if an aphid infestation is present, spray plants with mild, soapy water. 

Food Preservation

Beans can be eaten fresh, canned and frozen. 

Gibby's Garden

Types of Beans

Bush Beans: Plants are compact and do not need support unless otherwise stated. Bush beans typically produce their crop at once.

Pole Beans: Vining plants that grow best on trellises or fences. They produce beans over an extended period of time. 

Snap Beans: Snap beans can be both bush or pole varieties and are referred to as “stringless.”

Dry Beans: Beans made for shelling after plants have lost most leaves & have been allowed to dry.

Shell Beans: Beans made for shelling when fresh. Typically boiled or steamed before eating.

Colors: Green, yellow, purple

Varieties of Beans

Green Bush Beans

Advantage Bush Bean

Roma II: High-yields. Broad pods keep fresh taste and bright green color after processing. Plants grow upright. 59 days.

Early Contender: Early variety. Stringless pods grow 6-8" long and are tender. Cans and freezes well. Tolerates Mosiac Virus, heat and greasy pod. 49 days.

Blue Lake 274: High-yields produce all at once. Smooth pods grow 6-6 ½" long. Texture is firm and color is deep. 58 days.

Trofeo: High-yielding filet bean. Crisp, tender pods grow long and provide a buttery flavor. Resists Halo Blight, Anthracnose and bean Mosiac Virus. 58 days.

Jade: Long harvest period. Tender, stringless, straight pods grow 6 ½" long. Provides a sweet taste. Keeps bright green color when frozen. Easily adaptable. 60 days.

Derby: High-yields over long season. Tender, stringless pods grow to 7" long. Easy harvest. Good resistance to bean Mosiac Virus. 57 days.

Provider: Early variety. Adapts easily. Grows well in cool soil. 50 days.

Fresh Pick: High-yielding over extended period. Plants grow large; fewer needed for large crop. 53 days.

Foremost: High-yields. Medium-sized plants can be hand or machine harvested. 53 days.

E-Z Pick: Beans mature all at once for an easy harvest. Plants are sturdy and upright. 55 days.

Venture: Extra-early variety. Extended harvest. Pods are crisp and tender and grow to 5”.  Great for northern gardens; tolerates cool soil. 48 days.

Kentucky Wonder 125: Early variety. High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long. Tender beans compare to the pole variety. No staking needed. 45 days. 

Tenderette: High-yielding over extended season. Stringless, straight pods grow 5” long. Flavorful. Cans and freezes well. 58 days.

Festina: Dark green pods are packed with vitamins. Pods grow 6” long. Provides crisp, tender-sweet taste. Great for hot climates. 56 days.

Nash: Early variety. High-yielding. Straight pods grow 5 3/4” long and are plump and succulent. Great for warm climates. 54 days.

Advantage: High-yielding with slow seed development. Extended harvest. Long, slender pods grow 6 ½" long and are moist and tender. Full of flavor and great for eating fresh, cooking, canning and freezing. 58 days.

Maxibel: European gourmet bean. Slender, stringless pods grow 7-7 ½" long and are dark green in color. Can be used as a snap or filet bean. 59 days.

Gina: Early Romano bean. Large yields. Broad, flat pods grow 5-5 ½" long with large beans packed with flavor. Resists Common Bean Mosiac. 55 days. 

Slenderette: Heavy-yielding. Stringless, crisp pods grow 5" long with white beans. Tastes great fresh and freezes well. 53 days.

California Blackeye: High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long producing smooth beans. Resistant to most common bean and pea viruses. 75 days.

Harvester: Hardy variety. Pods grow up to 6” long on upright plants. Resists Common Bean Mosiac Virus, Bean Rust Virus and root rot. 53 days.

Strike: Easy to harvest. Pods grow 5 ½” long and are close together. 53 days.

Stringless Green Pod: Early variety. Stringless, curved pods grow 5-6” long. 50 days.

Tendergreen: High-yielding. Loves warm climates. Pods grow 6” long. 58 days. 

Topcrop: High-yielding. Stringless pods grow 6” long. Resists Bean Mosiac Virus and Bean Pod Mottle Virus. All American Selections Winner. 54 days. 

Purple Bush Beans

Dwarf Velour

Amethyst: Thin, straight pods grow 5-5 ½" long and are burgundy in color. Tasty raw or cooked. Turn green after cooking. 56 days.

Royal Burgundy: Pods grow to 5" and are dark burgundy in color. Turn green after cooking. 55 days.

Dwarf Velour French Bean: Heavy-yielding over extended season. Stringless, long, slender pods grow 5-6" long and are royal purple in color. Gourmet beans are succulent and packed with flavor. 55 days. 

Yellow Bush Beans

Rocdor Bush Bean

Imperial Golden Wax: High-yielding. Stringless, bright-yellow pods that grow 4-5" long with a buttery taste. Plants reach 16-18" high. Great for small or large gardens. 50 days.

    

Rocdor: Early variety. Straight, long pods grow to 6 ½" and are deep yellow when mature. 52 days.

Carson: High-yielding. Yellow pods grow 5 ½" long. Plants are vigorous. Good disease resistance. 52 days.

Soleil: High-yielding. Pods are straight and thin and grow to 4”. Plants are compact at 2’ high and 1’ wide when mature. Great flavor with no aftertaste. 60 days.

Capitano: High-yielding gourmet Romano bean. Flat pods grow 6" long and are golden-yellow in color. Beans grow uniformly with a velvety texture. 60 days.   

Goldcrop: Early variety. Stringless, straight pods grow 5-7” long and are wax colored. Adapts well. Easy to harvest beans grow near tops of plants. 55 days. 

Top Notch Golden Wax: Early variety. Straight, stringless pods are slightly flat and grow on 15-18” tall plants. 50-55 days.

Green Pole Beans

Blue Lake Pole Bean

Fortex: Extended harvest. Stringless, firm pods grow to 11" long. Can be used as a filet bean at 7". 60 days.

Northeaster: Early variety. Sweet, rich pods grow 8" long and 1" wide. Pods are flat, tender and stringless. 56 days.

Garden of Eden: Italian-style heirloom variety. Flat, broad pods grow 6" long and are medium-green in color. Sweet and tender. 65 days.

Kentucky Wonder: High-yields. Straight, smooth pods grow 8-9" long. Vigorous grower. Resists rust. 67 days.

Blue Lake: High-Yields. Straight, stringless pods grow 6" long. Tender and full-bodied. Cans well. 63 days.

Rattlesnake: Productive. Stringless, tender pods grow 7" long and are flat. Green pods are streaked with purple. 73 days. 

Gita: (yard long) Stringless, rich, sweet pods grow 16-20" long. Great for stir-fries and Asian cuisine. Produces smaller yields in cooler areas. 78 days.

Orient Wonder: (yard long) Crisp, tender pods grow 15-18" long. Widely adaptable. Great in stir-fries and Asian cuisine. 85 days.

Smeraldo: High-yielding flat bean. Long, straight pods grow 8-10" long on 4-6' tall x 2' wide plants. Packs lots of flavor. 55 days.

Mountaineer White Half Runner: (Also known as Old Dutch Half Runner) Great-yields. Slender, tender pods are rich in flavor. 57 days.

Algarve French Climbing: High-yielding, early harvest. Stringless, uniform, flat-like pods grow 10" long on 6-7' vines. This French gourmet climbing bean is resistant to Bean Mosiac Virus. 52 days. 

Kentucky Blue: High-yielding. Succulent, tender pods grow 9" long on 5-8' vines. Light-stringed pods taste like a cross between Kentucky Wonder and Blue Lake beans. 58 days. 

Tenderstar: New variety. Combination French and runner bean. Stringless, meaty pods grow 7" long and are silky smooth. Vines grow 10'+ tall. Pods resemble French beans while vines resemble runners. 

Cobra: High-yielding over extended season. Stringless, smooth pods grow 7" long with a sweet, tender flavor on 5-6' tall vines. 80 days.

Moonlight Runner: High-yielding, self-pollinating runner bean. Sweet, smooth and tender pods grow 10" long on 10' vines. 80 days.

Kwintus: (formerly known as Early Riser) European variety. Flat, stringless and succulent pods grow 10" long on 5-8' vines. Italian flavor. 43 days. 

Scarlet Runner: Vines grow 10’ long with scarlet flowers. Can be eaten as snap beans when young or shell beans when mature. 90 days. 

Yellow Pole Beans

Marvel of Venice: Heirloom/early variety. Flavorful pods grow 8-9" long and 3/4" wide. Vines grow vigorously. 54 days. 

Purple Pole Beans

Trionfo Violetto

Red Noodle: (yard long) Burgundy beans grow 16-20" long in clusters. Sweeter flavor than “Gita” yard longs. Great for stir-fries and Asian cuisine. 85 days.

Purple Pod: Stringless, tender pods grow 6-7" long. Deep purple when raw; turns green after cooking. 67 days.

Trionfo Violetto: Heavy-producing Italian heirloom. Succulent pods grow 6" long with a diameter of a drinking straw. Pods grow from summer till early fall in most climates. 75 days.

Fresh Shell Beans

62X Dwarf Horticultural Taylor Strain: Early variety. Pods grow to 5 ½-6” with broad, oval beans. Beans are white-ish in color with red specks. 68 days.

Tongue of Fire: Italian variety. Good fresh, frozen or dried. Easy to shell pods produce 8-10 beans each. 76 days.

Borlotto Solista: Vigorous-yielding Italian bean. Pods grow 9" long and produce meaty, cream-colored beans with maroon stripes and streaks. Kidney-shaped. Hard shelled. 85-95 days. 

Black Valentine: Heirloom variety. Bush bean. Pods grow 6” long and can be eaten fresh when young or shelled when mature. Produces all black beans. 70 days. 

Lima Beans

Fordhook Lima Bean

Fordhook 242: Prolific grower/bush bean. Heat and drought tolerant. Pods contain 3-5 beans each. 75 days.

Baby Thorogreen: Early maturing. Beans grow in clusters on dwarf plants. Beans are plump and great for canning and drying. Grows well in the north. 67 days.

Eastland: Bush/early variety. High yields over extended season. Semi-flat, uniform pods grow 3-4" long and produce succulent, flavorful beans. 68 days. 

Dixie Butterpea: Bush variety. Huge yields. Beans are succulent and rich growing nearly-round and white in color. Meaty taste. Resists Downy Mildew. 75 days. 

Henderson: Bush variety. Large pods produce 3-4 beans each. Cans and freezes well. 67 days. 

Soy Beans

Black Jet: High yields/prolific grower. Beans are jet black and packed with flavor. Plants grow 2’ high. Easy to grow. 104 days.

Envy: Low-yields. Early variety. Great for short seasons. Beans are bright-green and can be used fresh or dried or for edamame. Plants grow upright to 2’ tall. 75 days.

Tohya: Early variety. Green pods are plump and average 3 beans per pod. Beans have a  firm texture and buttery flavor. Comparable to “Butterbeans”. Plants are compact and grow to about 2’ tall. 78 days.

Butterbeans: High-yielding. Prolific grower. Pods produce 3 large beans on average. Beans are sweet and buttery to taste. Easy to shell. Plants grow 2-2 ½’ tall. A favorite among soybeans. 90 days. 

BeSweet 292: Bush variety. Edamame. Pods grow 2-3 beans each. High in protein. 85 days.

Fava Beans

Windsor: Old English variety. Pods grow 5-6” long and produce 3-5 large beans 1” in size. Grows well under cool, mild conditions. 75 days.

Broad Windsor: Pods grow 7” long and produce 5-6 large, flat beans each. Eat fresh pods when young or as shell beans when mature. Unique flavor. 120-150 days. 

Other Shell Beans

Calypso: Half black, half white beans. Double in sized when boiled. Great for soups and baking. Meaty beans have mild flavor. 90 days.

Dry Shell Beans

Yin Yang

Kenearly Yellow Eye: Easy harvest - best for baking. Compares to Maine Yellow ye. Great for baked beans, soups, stews and creamy broth. Beans are uniform and white with light-brown eyes. 90 days.

Vermont Cranberry: Northern New England Variety. Pods grow 6” on upright plants. Medium-sized beans are oval in shape, plump and red and pink striped. Mild taste is great for baking or in soups and stews. Can be shelled fresh or dried. 75 days fresh, 98 days dry. 

European Soldier: White kidney-bean. Beans are medium-sized and great for baking and stews. 95 days. 

Light Red Kidney: Early variety. Light-red kidney bean good for salads, chili and stew. 95 days.

Midnight Black Turtle Soup: Small black beans grow on tall, upright bushes. Beans grow to about the size of a pea. A favorite in Latin cooking. Great for refrying and in soups and stews. 104 days. 

Related Articles

How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

Guide to Backyard Composting

How to Control Weeds Organically Using Mulch