Types and Varieties of Beans

Gibby's Garden

Types of Beans

Bush Beans: Plants are compact and do not need support unless otherwise stated. Bush beans typically produce their crop at once.

Pole Beans: Vining plants that grow best on trellises or fences. They produce beans over an extended period of time. 

Snap Beans: Snap beans can be both bush or pole varieties and are referred to as “stringless.”

Dry Beans: Beans made for shelling after plants have lost most leaves & have been allowed to dry.

Shell Beans: Beans made for shelling when fresh. Typically boiled or steamed before eating.

Colors: Green, yellow, purple

Varieties of Beans

Green Bush Beans

Advantage Bush Bean

Roma II: High-yields. Broad pods keep fresh taste and bright green color after processing. Plants grow upright. 59 days.

Early Contender: Early variety. Stringless pods grow 6-8" long and are tender. Cans and freezes well. Tolerates Mosiac Virus, heat and greasy pod. 49 days.

Blue Lake 274: High-yields produce all at once. Smooth pods grow 6-6 ½" long. Texture is firm and color is deep. 58 days.

Trofeo: High-yielding filet bean. Crisp, tender pods grow long and provide a buttery flavor. Resists Halo Blight, Anthracnose and bean Mosiac Virus. 58 days.

Jade: Long harvest period. Tender, stringless, straight pods grow 6 ½" long. Provides a sweet taste. Keeps bright green color when frozen. Easily adaptable. 60 days.

Derby: High-yields over long season. Tender, stringless pods grow to 7" long. Easy harvest. Good resistance to bean Mosiac Virus. 57 days.

Provider: Early variety. Adapts easily. Grows well in cool soil. 50 days.

Fresh Pick: High-yielding over extended period. Plants grow large; fewer needed for large crop. 53 days.

Foremost: High-yields. Medium-sized plants can be hand or machine harvested. 53 days.

E-Z Pick: Beans mature all at once for an easy harvest. Plants are sturdy and upright. 55 days.

Venture: Extra-early variety. Extended harvest. Pods are crisp and tender and grow to 5”.  Great for northern gardens; tolerates cool soil. 48 days.

Kentucky Wonder 125: Early variety. High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long. Tender beans compare to the pole variety. No staking needed. 45 days. 

Tenderette: High-yielding over extended season. Stringless, straight pods grow 5” long. Flavorful. Cans and freezes well. 58 days.

Festina: Dark green pods are packed with vitamins. Pods grow 6” long. Provides crisp, tender-sweet taste. Great for hot climates. 56 days.

Nash: Early variety. High-yielding. Straight pods grow 5 3/4” long and are plump and succulent. Great for warm climates. 54 days.

Advantage: High-yielding with slow seed development. Extended harvest. Long, slender pods grow 6 ½" long and are moist and tender. Full of flavor and great for eating fresh, cooking, canning and freezing. 58 days.

Maxibel: European gourmet bean. Slender, stringless pods grow 7-7 ½" long and are dark green in color. Can be used as a snap or filet bean. 59 days.

Gina: Early Romano bean. Large yields. Broad, flat pods grow 5-5 ½" long with large beans packed with flavor. Resists Common Bean Mosiac. 55 days. 

Slenderette: Heavy-yielding. Stringless, crisp pods grow 5" long with white beans. Tastes great fresh and freezes well. 53 days.

California Blackeye: High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long producing smooth beans. Resistant to most common bean and pea viruses. 75 days.

Harvester: Hardy variety. Pods grow up to 6” long on upright plants. Resists Common Bean Mosiac Virus, Bean Rust Virus and root rot. 53 days.

Strike: Easy to harvest. Pods grow 5 ½” long and are close together. 53 days.

Stringless Green Pod: Early variety. Stringless, curved pods grow 5-6” long. 50 days.

Tendergreen: High-yielding. Loves warm climates. Pods grow 6” long. 58 days. 

Topcrop: High-yielding. Stringless pods grow 6” long. Resists Bean Mosiac Virus and Bean Pod Mottle Virus. All American Selections Winner. 54 days. 

Purple Bush Beans

Dwarf Velour

Amethyst: Thin, straight pods grow 5-5 ½" long and are burgundy in color. Tasty raw or cooked. Turn green after cooking. 56 days.

Royal Burgundy: Pods grow to 5" and are dark burgundy in color. Turn green after cooking. 55 days.

Dwarf Velour French Bean: Heavy-yielding over extended season. Stringless, long, slender pods grow 5-6" long and are royal purple in color. Gourmet beans are succulent and packed with flavor. 55 days. 

Yellow Bush Beans

Rocdor Bush Bean

Imperial Golden Wax: High-yielding. Stringless, bright-yellow pods that grow 4-5" long with a buttery taste. Plants reach 16-18" high. Great for small or large gardens. 50 days.

    

Rocdor: Early variety. Straight, long pods grow to 6 ½" and are deep yellow when mature. 52 days.

Carson: High-yielding. Yellow pods grow 5 ½" long. Plants are vigorous. Good disease resistance. 52 days.

Soleil: High-yielding. Pods are straight and thin and grow to 4”. Plants are compact at 2’ high and 1’ wide when mature. Great flavor with no aftertaste. 60 days.

Capitano: High-yielding gourmet Romano bean. Flat pods grow 6" long and are golden-yellow in color. Beans grow uniformly with a velvety texture. 60 days.   

Goldcrop: Early variety. Stringless, straight pods grow 5-7” long and are wax colored. Adapts well. Easy to harvest beans grow near tops of plants. 55 days. 

Top Notch Golden Wax: Early variety. Straight, stringless pods are slightly flat and grow on 15-18” tall plants. 50-55 days.

Green Pole Beans

Blue Lake Pole Bean

Fortex: Extended harvest. Stringless, firm pods grow to 11" long. Can be used as a filet bean at 7". 60 days.

Northeaster: Early variety. Sweet, rich pods grow 8" long and 1" wide. Pods are flat, tender and stringless. 56 days.

Garden of Eden: Italian-style heirloom variety. Flat, broad pods grow 6" long and are medium-green in color. Sweet and tender. 65 days.

Kentucky Wonder: High-yields. Straight, smooth pods grow 8-9" long. Vigorous grower. Resists rust. 67 days.

Blue Lake: High-Yields. Straight, stringless pods grow 6" long. Tender and full-bodied. Cans well. 63 days.

Rattlesnake: Productive. Stringless, tender pods grow 7" long and are flat. Green pods are streaked with purple. 73 days. 

Gita: (yard long) Stringless, rich, sweet pods grow 16-20" long. Great for stir-fries and Asian cuisine. Produces smaller yields in cooler areas. 78 days.

Orient Wonder: (yard long) Crisp, tender pods grow 15-18" long. Widely adaptable. Great in stir-fries and Asian cuisine. 85 days.

Smeraldo: High-yielding flat bean. Long, straight pods grow 8-10" long on 4-6' tall x 2' wide plants. Packs lots of flavor. 55 days.

Mountaineer White Half Runner: (Also known as Old Dutch Half Runner) Great-yields. Slender, tender pods are rich in flavor. 57 days.

Algarve French Climbing: High-yielding, early harvest. Stringless, uniform, flat-like pods grow 10" long on 6-7' vines. This French gourmet climbing bean is resistant to Bean Mosiac Virus. 52 days. 

Kentucky Blue: High-yielding. Succulent, tender pods grow 9" long on 5-8' vines. Light-stringed pods taste like a cross between Kentucky Wonder and Blue Lake beans. 58 days. 

Kwintus: (formerly known as Early Riser) European variety. Flat, stringless and succulent pods grow 10" long on 5-8' vines. Italian flavor. 43 days. 

Yellow Pole Beans

Marvel of Venice: Heirloom/early variety. Flavorful pods grow 8-9" long and 3/4" wide. Vines grow vigorously. 54 days. 

Purple Pole Beans

Trionfo Violetto

Purple Pod: Stringless, tender pods grow 6-7" long. Deep purple when raw; turns green after cooking. 67 days.

Trionfo Violetto: Heavy-producing Italian heirloom. Succulent pods grow 6" long with a diameter of a drinking straw. Pods grow from summer till early fall in most climates. 75 days.

Fresh Shell Beans

62X Dwarf Horticultural Taylor Strain: Early variety. Pods grow to 5 ½-6” with broad, oval beans. Beans are white-ish in color with red specks. 68 days.

Tongue of Fire: Italian variety. Good fresh, frozen or dried. Easy to shell pods produce 8-10 beans each. 76 days.

Borlotto Solista: Vigorous-yielding Italian bean. Pods grow 9" long and produce meaty, cream-colored beans with maroon stripes and streaks. Kidney-shaped. Hard shelled. 85-95 days. 

Black Valentine: Heirloom variety. Bush bean. Pods grow 6” long and can be eaten fresh when young or shelled when mature. Produces all black beans. 70 days. 

Lima Beans

Fordhook Lima Bean

Fordhook 242: Prolific grower/bush bean. Heat and drought tolerant. Pods contain 3-5 beans each. 75 days.

Baby Thorogreen: Early maturing. Beans grow in clusters on dwarf plants. Beans are plump and great for canning and drying. Grows well in the north. 67 days.

Eastland: Bush/early variety. High yields over extended season. Semi-flat, uniform pods grow 3-4" long and produce succulent, flavorful beans. 68 days. 

Dixie Butterpea: Bush variety. Huge yields. Beans are succulent and rich growing nearly-round and white in color. Meaty taste. Resists Downy Mildew. 75 days. 

Henderson: Bush variety. Large pods produce 3-4 beans each. Cans and freezes well. 67 days. 

Soy Beans

Black Jet: High yields/prolific grower. Beans are jet black and packed with flavor. Plants grow 2’ high. Easy to grow. 104 days.

Envy: Low-yields. Early variety. Great for short seasons. Beans are bright-green and can be used fresh or dried or for edamame. Plants grow upright to 2’ tall. 75 days.

Tohya: Early variety. Green pods are plump and average 3 beans per pod. Beans have a  firm texture and buttery flavor. Comparable to “Butterbeans”. Plants are compact and grow to about 2’ tall. 78 days.

Butterbeans: High-yielding. Prolific grower. Pods produce 3 large beans on average. Beans are sweet and buttery to taste. Easy to shell. Plants grow 2-2 ½’ tall. A favorite among soybeans. 90 days. 

BeSweet 292: Bush variety. Edamame. Pods grow 2-3 beans each. High in protein. 85 days.

Fava Beans

Windsor: Old English variety. Pods grow 5-6” long and produce 3-5 large beans 1” in size. Grows well under cool, mild conditions. 75 days.

Broad Windsor: Pods grow 7” long and produce 5-6 large, flat beans each. Eat fresh pods when young or as shell beans when mature. Unique flavor. 120-150 days. 

Other Shell Beans

Calypso: Half black, half white beans. Double in sized when boiled. Great for soups and baking. Meaty beans have mild flavor. 90 days.

Dry Shell Beans

Yin Yang

Kenearly Yellow Eye: Easy harvest - best for baking. Compares to Maine Yellow ye. Great for baked beans, soups, stews and creamy broth. Beans are uniform and white with light-brown eyes. 90 days.

Vermont Cranberry: Northern New England Variety. Pods grow 6” on upright plants. Medium-sized beans are oval in shape, plump and red and pink striped. Mild taste is great for baking or in soups and stews. Can be shelled fresh or dried. 75 days fresh, 98 days dry. 

European Soldier: White kidney-bean. Beans are medium-sized and great for baking and stews. 95 days. 

Light Red Kidney: Early variety. Light-red kidney bean good for salads, chili and stew. 95 days.

Midnight Black Turtle Soup: Small black beans grow on tall, upright bushes. Beans grow to about the size of a pea. A favorite in Latin cooking. Great for refrying and in soups and stews. 104 days. 

How to Grow Artichokes in the North

magpie-moon/Flickr

In order to successfully grow artichokes in the north, they must be started from seed indoors or grown from transplants because the growing season simply isn’t long enough to sow seeds directly in the ground. In the north, artichokes are grown as annuals to accommodate the short growing season.

Tip: Some northern gardeners have had success with digging up the artichoke roots and hanging them in mesh bags (onion bags) in a cool, dry, dark place. Come spring they replant the roots, feed and water them, and watch them come back to life and produce a healthy crop.

Guide to Growing Artichokes in the North

Plant Type: Annual (zone 8 & higher), Perennial (up to zone 7)
Genus: Thistle Family
Name: Cynara scolymus

How to Grow Artichokes from Seed

Sow seeds in 4” containers in rich potting soil mixed with either fish emulsion or organic fertilizer containing NPK, Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. Young artichoke seedlings require lots of nutrients to get off to a healthy start. In the north, seeds should be started in February. Water as needed.

Before transplanting seedlings outdoors, it’s important to harden them off. This process encourages artichokes to bud during their first year of growth which is needed when planted as an annual.

How to Harden Off Artichoke Seedlings

When the days begin to warm and seedlings are about 8-10” tall, set them outdoors in a shady area out of the wind for a few hours each day as temperatures permit. Slowly increase the amount of time seedlings are kept outdoors over a 2 week period. When soil and air temperatures have warmed, transplant to the garden.

How to Transplant Artichokes

Whether using home-grown transplants or those bought at the local nursery, it’s important to make sure the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has past before transplanting to the garden. Before transplanting, seedlings should have their first true leaves and sturdy stems. Seedlings should be about 8-10 weeks old. 

Where to Plant: Plant in rich soil mixed with compost. 

Plant Spacing: Plant each artichoke seedling 2-4’apart. 

Fertilization: During the transplanting process, till in compost or a complete organic fertilizer (following instructions on bag) in the spot where the seedlings are to go. Fertilize once a month during the growing season to feed hungry artichoke plants which thrive on nutrient-rich soil.

Watering: Water as needed keeping the soil evenly moist.

How to Harvest Artichokes

Once flowers have formed on the buds and before they open, cleanly slice buds off the plants at their base. 

Pest and Disease Control

Snails, slugs, caterpillars and aphids are pests to watch out for. Hand pick pests and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to drown them. Set out beer traps to kill slugs and snails. 

Varieties of Artichoke

Imperial Star

Imperial Star: High-yielding. Plants produce 6-8 mature buds about 3-4" tall. Produces first season from seed. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. Thornless. Easy to grow from seed. 85 days.

Opera: Early variety. High-yielding. Plants grow to 2 ½ - 3 feet tall and produce 3-4 primary  3-4”  buds and 6-8 secondary 1 ½ - 2 ¾”  buds. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. 100 days. 

Jerusalem Artichoke: Tubers. Potato-like taste and water chestnut-like texture. Can be harvested fall to spring. Stores well. Perennial. 

Stampede (Jerusalem artichoke): High-yielding. Extra early tubers grow to ½ pound in size. Winter hardy. Stores well. Zones 3-8.  

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Varieties of Artichoke

There are  2 main varieties of artichokes to choose from: Imperial Start and Opera. Depending on the region in which you live, artichokes are either perennial or annual. In milder climates, such a those up to zone 7, artichokes can be grown as perennials. In zones 8 and higher or where winters are harsh, artichokes are grown as annuals.

Imperial Star Artichoke

Imperial Star: High-yielding. Plants produce 6-8 mature buds about 3-4" tall. Produces first season from seed. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. Thornless. Easy to grow from seed. 85 days.

Opera: Early variety. High-yielding. Plants grow to 2 ½ - 3 feet tall and produce 3-4 primary  3-4" buds and 6-8 secondary 1 ½ - 2 3/4" buds. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. 100 days.

Jerusalem Artichoke: Tubers. Potato-like taste and water chestnut-like texture. Can be harvested fall to spring. Stores well. Perennial.

Stampede (Jerusalem artichoke): High-yielding. Extra early tubers grow to ½ pound in size. Winter hardy. Stores well. Zones 3-8.

How to Grow Asparagus in the North

bongo vongo/Flickr

Asparagus grows great in areas with cold climates and those on the drier side where the crop can over winter without getting saturated making this a great vegetable to grow in the north. Wherever you choose to put your asparagus bed, make sure it’s in a spot that can be dedicated to growing this vegetable for years to come as spears reemerge for up to 15 to 20 years.

In this guide you’ll find how to grow asparagus from crowns and seed, how to prepare and maintain the bed, growing, weeding, watering and mulching instructions, when and how to harvest, how to control disease and pest infestations and types and varieties of asparagus.

Plant Type: Perennial
Genus: Lily Family
Name: Asparagus Officinalis

Guide to Growing Asparagus

How to Grow Asparagus from Crowns

Where to Plant: Full sun in light, well-drained soil to prevent root rot.

Preparing the Bed: Remove all roots and other debris from the soil. Add 1-2 inches of year-old manure and finished compost, tilling it well into the soil. This will provide  crowns with plenty of nutrients to get off to a healthy start.

Planting Instructions: Dig trenches 12 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Place each crown in the trenches so they are 1.5-2 feet apart. Cover each crown with 2-3 inches of soil. Water. Wait 2 weeks and add another layer of soil, 1-2 inches deep. Repeat as soil settles and forms a slight bump over crowns. The bed will defer in size depending on how many crowns are planted.

Mulching: Add a layer of mulch to the asparagus bed after planting. Mulch should be 2-4 inches deep to prevent weeds from growing and to retain moisture. 

Weeding: Pull all weeds because they will steal nutrients and water, especially from young asparagus shoots. 

Watering: It’s critical to water asparagus during the first 2 years after planting when plants are still maturing. Water on an as needed basis keeping the moist but not saturated. Water in early mornings to help prevent rust. 

Over-Wintering Instructions: Do not cut back asparagus stalks. Lightly mulch the bed with straw or preferred mulch to offer over-wintering protection. In the spring, remove the ferns. 

Starting Asparagus from Seed

When: Start seeds indoors from February to March.

Sowing Instructions: Soak asparagus seeds in water for a few hours before sowing. Using paper pots, fill ¾ of the way with light potting soil mixed with compost. Sow 1 seed per pot. Keep pots in a warm room, around 60°F. When sprouts appear, move pots to a location filled with natural light but keep out of direct sunlight. Once all danger of frost is gone, begin hardening off asparagus seedlings. Follow above planting instructions when seedlings are ready to be moved to the bed.

How to Harvest Asparagus

Do not harvest for the first 2 years after planting unless otherwise noted on the variety planted. During this time, asparagus needs to establish its root system in order for productive yields to grow for years to come. 

During the 3rd year, harvest only during a 4 week period. During the 4th year, extend the harvest over 8 weeks. Begin harvest in early summer, harvesting about every 3 days. Using a sharp knife, cleanly slice spears just below the ground’s surface. Harvest while spears are at desired diameter, are about 8 inches tall and have tight heads. Spears that have over-matured become tough and woody. 

Disease and Pest Control

Rust is a common disease effecting some varieties of asparagus. Many newer hybrid varieties such as Jersey Night Hybrid, Jersey Giant and Martha Washington are bred to resist rust. Opt for a resistant variety before planting. If rust does occur, red and brown spots will be noticeable on the leaves and stems of plants.

To combat this problem, remove affected stocks to keep from spreading, and burn or bag them to toss out with the trash. Remove all dead plant debris from the bed. Follow the correct growing instructions such as planting in well-drained soil, spacing guidelines and watering in early mornings to further prevent rust. 

Fusarium wilt is another disease prone to showing up in asparagus beds. If plants yellow or brown and become wilted or die, Fusarium wilt is most likely present. Signs that Fusarium wilt is present include reddish-brown lesions on stems and rotting crowns. This disease weakens plants over time, slowly killing them off. 

To prevent Fusarium wilt, do not plant a new bed where an old one existed for at least five years and opt for a wilt resistant variety. (Jersey Giant is both rust and Fusarium wilt resistant). Do not over harvest which will weaken the plants. Water, weed and fertilize as necessary. 

Prevent root rot by planting in well-drained soil, preferably in raised beds. Make sure not to saturate the bed when watering. If heavy frost is an issue, cover plants with straw mulch or newspaper as a layer of protection. The most common sign of damage as a result of frost are brown, withered stalks. 

Types of Asparagus 

bangli 1/Flickr

Green: Green asparagus is the most common type seen in produce sections. It is less fibrous than purple varieties and slightly thinner. They get their green color through the photosynthesis process.

SheriW/Flickr

Purple: Purple asparagus is sweeter and slightly thicker than green and white varieties. It gets its color from the high levels of anthocyanins in the plant which are high in antioxidants. 

Sunfox/Flickr

White: White asparagus is very similar to green varieties in taste, texture and size. It gets its white color from growing in the dark where it cannot photosynthesize. White varieties are typically more expensive to buy than other types because of its limited supply. 

Varieties of Asparagus to Grow

Asparagus produce both male and female plants, making it a monoecious vegetable. Male plants produce higher yields, but both male and female plants will produce tender stalks.

Jersey Knight Asparagus Hybrid 

Jersey Knight

Produces high-yields from 99.5% all male plants. Spears grow to 5/8 inches in diameter with bright green stalks and dark purple tops and bracts. Plants grow 24 inches to 5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Resists Crown Rot and Rust. Disease Resistant. Harvest in early summer.

Purple Passion Asparagus

Purple Passion

Produces medium yields. Grows sweet, tender, purple spears. Spears grow to .5 inches in diameter and 3-5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Disease resistant. Harvest from early to mid summer. 

Jersey Supreme Hybrid Asparagus

Jersey Supreme

Produces high yields of 10 pound crops each year from all male plants. Grows mid-size succulent spears which are ready for harvest the second year after planting. Zones 2-9. Adapts easily to stress, drought and cold. 

Jersey Giant Hybrid 

Produces high yields of male plants only. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall and are very tasty. Resists rust. Ready to harvest after 3 years. 

Mary Washington Asparagus

Spears are green with purple tips. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall. Ready for harvest after 3 years.

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List of Asparagus Varieties and Their Types

While there are only 3 types of asparagus, green, purple and white, there are a handful of varieties to choose from. Whichever variety is grown will come back time and time again for up to 15 years or more, so when choosing a variety, make sure it's one you love.

Types of Asparagus 

bangli 1/Flickr

Green: Green asparagus is the most common type seen in produce sections. It is less fibrous than purple varieties and slightly thinner. They get their green color through the photosynthesis process.

SheriW/Flickr

Purple: Purple asparagus is sweeter and slightly thicker than green and white varieties. It gets its color from the high levels of anthocyanins in the plant which are high in antioxidants. 

Sunfox/Flickr

White: White asparagus is very similar to green varieties in taste, texture and size. It gets its white color from growing in the dark where it cannot photosynthesize. White varieties are typically more expensive to buy than other types because of its limited supply. 

Varieties of Asparagus 

Asparagus produce both male and female plants, making it a monoecious vegetable. Male plants produce higher yields, but both male and female plants will produce tender stalks.

Jersey Knight Asparagus

Jersey Knight

Produces high-yields from 99.5% all male plants. Spears grow to 5/8 inches in diameter with bright green stalks and dark purple tops and bracts. Plants grow 24 inches to 5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Resists Crown Rot and Rust. Disease Resistant. Harvest in early summer.

Purple Passion Asparagus

Purple Passion

Produces medium yields. Grows sweet, tender, purple spears. Spears grow to .5 inches in diameter and 3-5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Disease resistant. Harvest from early to mid summer. 

Jersey Supreme Hybrid Asparagus

Jersey Supreme

Produces high yields of 10 pound crops each year from all male plants. Grows mid-size succulent spears which are ready for harvest the second year after planting. Zones 2-9. Adapts easily to stress, drought and cold. 

Jersey Giant Hybrid

Produces high yields of male plants only. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall and are very tasty. Resists rust. Ready to harvest after 3 years. 

Mary Washington Asparagus

Spears are green with purple tips. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall. Ready for harvest after 3 years.

January Thaw

We're currently experiencing a January thaw here in Maine and other parts of the north. Besides providing a warm winter break, the sunny, mild weather is putting me in the mood to garden. Since it's only January, I can't start my seeds yet or head outdoors to prepare my gardens until spring. In the meantime, I'll be making a list of which vegetables to plant in 2013 and how many.

I'll be planting my usual crop of beans, peas, corn and tomatoes - many of which will be eaten fresh and the rest frozen. This year I'm going to try planting some new vegetables, one's I've never grown before, such as eggplant and turnips.

I've already been scouring online seed catalogs checking out the new varieties for 2013 and making a mental list of which seeds I want to order to be written down later. I've also been thinking ahead about rotating my crops and thinking about which vegetables to grow where.

In other news, a number of online gardening catalogs have discontinued their affiliate marketing relationship with Google, so I'll be begrudgingly removing all banners and links from Gibby's Garden over the next few weeks. The companies I speak of include Gurney's (one of my favorites), Breck's and a few others. Please be patient as I do this as these links will no longer work from this site and many others similar to mine.

What will you be doing in preparation for this year's vegetable garden?

Guide to Choosing Seeds for the Organic Vegetable Garden

Gibby's Garden

With so many varieties of vegetables to choose from, it can be hard to narrow down which vegetable seeds to choose and which seed company to buy them from. A few things to consider when choosing vegetable seeds is budget, USDA zone and how much space is available in the garden.

Tips for Choosing Vegetable Seeds and Varieties

Choosing Vegetable Seeds for the Northern Garden

3 questions to ask yourself before choosing which vegetable seeds to plant and tips to help make deciding which brand(s) of seeds to buy easier.

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Choosing Which Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

Tips on choosing which types of vegetables and their varieties to plant in your garden. Follow this guide to make choosing the best vegetables to plant for you and your family simple and fun.

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How Many Vegetables to Plant per Person

Figuring out how many vegetables to plant per person for an entire household can seem a little overwhelming. By answering a few questions and consulting a few free online charts, this process is a lot easier. Deciding how much of which vegetables to plant makes choosing vegetable varieties easier because you can choose from high or low yielding plants depending on the needs of your household.

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Vegetable Seeds vs. Transplants: The Benefits of Each

Should you choose vegetable seeds, transplants or both? In the north, it’s best to use a mix of both and here’s why.

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Buy Vegetable Seeds in Fall to Save Money

Buying your vegetable seeds in the fall and winter from online seed companies and catalogs can net you some pretty big savings. Many companies offer discounts and other incentives that are worth taking advantage of.

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How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

We all know how much of a pain it can be to plant those tiny seeds like radishes and carrots. To save on time, follow this guide to make your own seed tapes for next to nothing.

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Vegetable Garden Maintenance and Protection Guide

Gibby's Garden

Maintaining your vegetable garden and offering it a little protection from the elements makes a big difference in how healthy and productive it grows. Learn tips and tricks from cleaning your garden and tools to maintaining and protecting your plants.

Garden Maintenance and Protection Guides

Spring Cleaning the Vegetable Garden

Once the snow melts and ground thaws here in the north, it’s time to head outside and clean and prepare the vegetable garden for the next growing season. Here are some tips to help guide you through the process.

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How to Clean Garden Tools

Clean garden tools are more efficient and last longer. Learn how to clean your garden tools, sharpen them yourself and which supplies are needed to get the job done.

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3 Steps to Protect the Garden from Heavy Rain

When heavy rains are forecast, head outdoors and offer your vegetable garden some protection. Here’s how.

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Garden Cleanup after a Heavy Rain

Tips on how to cleanup the garden after a heavy rainstorm. Keep an eye out for damaged plants and those that need to be supported.

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Hurricane Protection: Keep Your Garden Safe

When a hurricane is on its way, head out to the garden and perform a few tasks to help protect it. These tips are mainly for the north where hurricanes are weaker and few and far between. 

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