Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Image: aroid/Flickr

Aphids maybe small, but don’t let their size fool you. These garden pests are known to wreak havoc in gardens throughout North America, leaving behind damaged plants from root to tip. The good news, there are 5 ways to control aphids organically.

How to Identify Aphids

Adult Aphids: These adult garden pests grow from 1/16 - 3/8 of an inch in size as adults. They have pear-shaped bodies, some with wings that grow longer than the body. Aphids range in color from powder grey, black, green, yellow and pink.

Nymphs: Nymphs are slightly smaller than adults and have no wings.

When Aphids Attack

Aphids can mount an attack any time during the growing season due to their life cycles. Females can produce nymphs all on their own. Those nymphs, which take abut 1 - 2 weeks to mature, then produce nymphs themselves and thus the cycles continues. The cycle is able to continue in cold climates because female aphids lay their eggs in fall with the eggs hatching in spring.

Common Plants Aphids Attack

• Fruit Plants
• Vegetable Plants
• Flowers
• Ornamentals
• Shade Trees

How to Identify Damage Caused by Aphids

Aphids are known in the world of garden pests as being sap suckers. This often leads to leaves, buds, branch tips and flowers becoming disfigured and droopy. Plants suffering from a severe aphid infestation can lose their leaves.

Furthermore, as these garden pests feed on plant sap, they secrete a substance, both sticky and sweet. Mold has a tendency to grow from their secretions, blocking light to the leaves below. To make matters worse, aphids can spread disease from one plant to another making controlling these garden pests a priority in the garden.

Image: Gibby's Garden

5 Ways to Control Aphids Organically

1. Water from the Hose: Set the hose to a strong spray and rinse away aphids. Since aphids are tiny and delicate, a strong stream from the hose or driving rain is enough to kill them.

2. Dormant Oil: In fall, spray dormant oil on fruit trees on the property. The oil will kill aphid eggs.

3. Pollen/Nectar Rich Plants: Plant flowers and plants that are heavy pollinators and those that offer lots of nectar. (Yarrow, sweet alyssum etc.) These types of plants attract “good bugs” which prey on aphids.

4. Ant Control: Some ants protect aphid colonies that have taken over fruit trees. To control the ants organically, wrap sticky bands around the trunks of infested trees.

5. Soaps, Oils and Sprays: Spray affected plants with insecticidal soap, summer oil or a garlic spray. Make sure the soaps, spray and oils are organic and the plants being sprayed can tolerate them.

The writers of Rodale Gardening Basics: Pests, suggest making a homemade garlic spray by soaking 10 - 15 finely chopped garlic gloves in 1 pint of mineral oil for 24 hours. Strain the oil which can be diluted, and use as needed.

For organic gardeners, controlling bad bugs such as aphids is a must. Too much hard work from planning, planting, weeding and watering goes into an organic vegetable garden to let garden pests take over and enjoy the bounty. Keep an eye out for aphids and other pests and begin controlling them from the first sign that they are in the garden.

Related Articles

How to Control Slugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically 

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically

Image: Gibby's Garden

Cabbageworms (imported) are found throughout the U.S. and Canada. After invading the garden and chewing through the leaves of plants, they leave behind large holes and piles of dark droppings called frass; 2 telltale signs the garden pests have arrived. Fortunately for gardeners, there are 6 ways to control imported cabbageworms organically.

How to Identify Imported Cabbageworms

Adult Cabbageworms: Adults are white butterflies with black-tipped wings. Their forewings have 1 - 2 black spots on them and their wingspan measures about 1 ½ inches. As adults, cabbageworms continue to putter around the garden.

Larvae: Cabbageworm larvae are green and velvety. In the larval stage, these garden pests are in the form of caterpillars measuring about 1 1/4 inches long. They have a single, yellow stripe that runs down their backs.

Eggs: Eggs are yellow in color and cone-shaped. They can be found on the undersides of plant leaves.

When Imported Cabbageworms Attack

Adult cabbageworms come out in late spring to lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves. When the eggs hatch into caterpillars, they feed for 2 - 3 weeks on plant leaves, typically on the undersides. Next, they pupate, turning into butterflies a short 1 - 2 weeks later. These garden pests produce from 3 - 5 generations a year.

Plants Cabbageworms Attack

• Cabbage Family Plants (broccoli, cauliflower)
• Nasturtiums

How to Identify Cabbageworm Damage

Look for large holes that have been chewed through the leaves of plants in the cabbage family as well as piles of droppings (frass). Watch for damage on broccoli and cauliflower florets as cabbageworms will borrow through these as well.

Image: Patrice Beaulieu

6 Ways to Control Imported Cabbageworms Organically

1. Floating Row Covers: Cover plants cabbageworms attack with floating row covers. These prevent adult garden pests from laying their eggs.

2. Purple Cabbage Varieties: Plant these; they are less attractive to imported cabbageworms.

3. Sticky Traps: Place these near plants cabbageworms attack, especially those where eggs and caterpillars have been found. The traps will catch a good majority of butterflies.

4. Handpicking: Bring a bucket or bottle of soapy water out to the garden. Look on both sides of leaves on cabbage family plants and handpick eggs and caterpillars.

5. Garden Clean Up: In the fall, remove all plant debris from the garden to prevent pupae from over wintering in the soil.

6. Attract Good Bugs: Good bugs, like spined soldier bugs, green lacewings and syrphid flies all feed on cabbageworm larvae and eggs and are a great way to control cabbageworms organically. Spined soldier bugs are attracted to pollinating plants such as goldenrod, hydrangeas and milkweed.

Green lacewings are attracted to plants such as dill, caraway, dandelion, angelica, cosmos, sunflowers, goldenrod, and sweet alyssum. To water lacewings (they are delicate) and keep them in the garden, place a shallow pan with a layer of gravel on the bottom in the garden and then fill with a little water. This provides them with a place to drink without drowning.

Attract syrphid flies to the garden by planting pollen and nectar, providing plants like wild mustard and alyssum. Surround the garden with tall, flowering plants like sunflowers to provide a windbreak for syrphid flies.

Controlling imported cabbageworms organically is a multi-season task. Begin in the fall by removing all dead plants from the garden, especially those that have been attacked by garden pests. Do a walk-through of the garden and inspect plants for eggs and larvae. Get a head start on controlling the pests by handpicking them from the first time they appear.

Related Articles

How to Control Slugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

How to Control Squash Bugs Organically
Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

 Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically

Image: Squeezyboy/Flickr

Squash bugs, commonly called “stink bugs,” are known for the odor they emit after being squished, but gardeners know that there’s more to these garden pests than their smell; they invade vegetable gardens and make themselves at home as they chew on plant stems and suck on their juices. Fortunately for the organic gardener, there are 7 ways to control the squash bug population without using a drop of pesticides.

How to Identify Squash Bugs

Eggs: Squash bugs lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves in small clusters. Newly laid eggs are shiny yellow in color while mature eggs are brick red.

Nymphs: Nymphs start life pale green in color and turn gray as they age.

Adults: When these garden pests turn into adults, they grow to ½ inch in size. Their bodies are oval shaped and either dark brown or black in color.

When Squash Bugs Attack

The life cycle of a squash bug happens over the course of a year, which is good news because this limits them to producing 1 generation a year. Spring is the time these garden pests lay their eggs. 1 to 2 weeks later, they hatch into nymphs which take about 4 to 6 weeks to grow. When winter rolls around, adult squash bugs burrow under garden debris or anything lying on the ground that will give them shelter.

Common Plants Squash Bugs Attack

Nymphs and adult squash bugs will suck the juices from the following plants, attacking stems and vines.

• Squash
• Cucumbers
• Pumpkins
• Gourds
• Melons

How to Identify Squash Bug Damage

There are telltale signs that squash bugs are present in the garden, organic or not. Vines and stems have obvious “bite marks” which look like ragged dents. Leaves of plants begin to wilt, turn black and eventually die. This can happen to young shoots as well.

Image: Patrice Beaulieu

7 Ways to Control Squash Bugs Organically

1. Plant Resistant Varieties of Plants: Check with the local plant nursery, consult seed catalogs and gardening websites for plant varieties that are resistant to squash bugs.

2. Handpick Bugs: Check the undersides of plants regularly and handpick any and all eggs, nymphs and adult squash bugs. Carry a bucket or bottle of soapy water and drop the garden pests inside where they’ll drown. This is a great way to control pests organically.

3. Use Trellises: Grow plants along trellises to keep vines off the ground.

4. Utilize Boards/Cardboard: Place boards or pieces of cardboard around plant stems. In the early morning, lift the boards and handpick or squish any bugs that spent the night under the boards.

5. Tachnid Flies: Attract tachnid flies by planting sweet fennel, parsley, clover, dill, goldenrod, buckwheat, wild carrot and amaranth around the garden. The flies are a great way to control squash bugs organically because they lay their eggs on the backs of squash bugs where they hatch, borrowing inside the garden pest.

Tachnid fly larvae produce more flies which will eventually wipe out about 80% of the adult squash bug population. Leave infected adults be so the eggs can hatch and continue the tachnid fly life cycle.

6. Remove Garden Debris: Come fall, clear the garden of all debris including dead plants, boards and anything else adult bugs can over winter under.

7. Floating Row Covers: Use these to protect young plants. Once plants flower, the covers will have to be lifted for a few hours each day to allow for pollination. Once plants begin steadily growing, remove the floating row covers all together.

Controlling squash bugs organically is a 3 season process. Begin in the fall by cleaning up the garden and check for and remove squash bugs in all stages of life throughout the growing season.

Related Articles

How to Control Slugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

Image: MSVG/Flickr

Japanese beetles are destructive garden pests that leave behind a wake of damaged and dying plants. They thrive in Maine and the rest of the northeast making their first appearances in July. There are 5 ways to keep these pests under control organically, bringing gardeners 1 step closer to a healthy and more productive garden.

How to Identify Japanese Beetles

Adult Japanese beetles grow to about ½ inch long. Their wing covers are bronze in color while the rest of their bodies are a metallic blue-green. The long legs of these beetles are easily visible, sticking out from their blocky bodies with their claw-like feet.

The larvae of Japanese beetles are called grubs. They are C-shaped and tannish-white in color. Larvae are fat and easy to see in freshly tilled soil.

When to Look for Japanese Beetles

Late June to early July is the prime time for Japanese beetles to make their first appearances. They feed on plants until late summer before burrowing under grass to lay their eggs. Once the eggs hatch into larvae, the larvae feed until cold weather moves in. Before the ground freezes, they burrow underground until spring when they emerge to feed on plant roots. Slowly, from May until June, larvae turn into adults continuing the life cycle.

Common Plants Japanese Beetles Attack

• Beans
• Peas
• Corn
• Tomatoes
• Trees
• Shrubs
• Fruits
• Vines
• Flowers

5 Ways to Control Japanese Beetles Organically

1. Floating Row Covers: Cover plants with floating row covers to protect them from Japanese beetles. During mid-summer if you notice beetles attacking uncovered plants, cover the smaller, more delicate ones with floating row covers to keep them protected.

2. Lawn Control: When July and early August roll around, let the lawn completely dry between waterings. This helps to control the egg population organically by drying them out.

3. Aerate the Lawn: During late spring and early fall, aerate the lawn to kill grubs.

4. Parasitic Nematodes: Apply these to the lawn in early spring or late fall. During this time, grubs are in the ground where the nematodes can feed on them.

5. Handpick the Garden Pests: Early morning is the best time to spot Japanese beetles on plants. Handpick them and drop them into a bucket or bottle of soapy water where they’ll drown.

Japanese beetles have the ability to chew through all the leaves on an entire plant making it important to control them from the day they emerge in the garden. Once they’re done feasting on one plant they’ll move on to another. Look for brittle, skeleton-like leaves or once healthy plants surrounded by dead foliage on the ground.

What’s Going on in Gibby’s Garden?

Japanese beetles have already begun to emerge in Gibby’s Garden. So far they’re more interested in the catnip than the vegetable plants. You can bet I’ll be out each morning with a bottle of soapy water handpicking these garden pests.

FYI: Did you know that Japanese beetles are attracted to some varieties of bamboo? I have some growing near one of my vegetable gardens. Though I don’t care for the plant because it spreads like crazy and is hard to get rid of, I leave a large patch undisturbed near my garden to lore the Japanese beetles out.

Check out Gibby’s Garden Diary to see what else is going on in the garden.

Related Articles

How to Control Slugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically 
Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically 
Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Cucumber Beetles Organically

Image: AustinT./Flickr

Not only do cucumber beetles live in Maine’s organic vegetables gardens, they thrive throughout the entire U.S. and most of Canada. These pests eat through leaves, flowers and fruits as adults and borrow their way into the base of plant stems and eat away at roots at the larval stage, often killing young plants. There are 4 ways to control cucumber beetles organically before, during and after the growing season.

Cucumber Beetle Identification

Wondering how to identify cucumber beetles? It’s pretty easy when you know what to look for. There are 2 types of cucumber beetles and here’s how to identify each.

Striped: Adult striped cucumber beetles grow to about 1/4 inch long with black heads and have 3 black stripes running down their backs that are big enough to identify. Their larvae are bigger, about 3/4 inches long with reddish brown heads and thin, white bodies. (see above picture)

Image: CamPixie/Flickr

Spotted: Adult spotted cucumber beetles grow to about 1/4 inch long and have 12 black spots dotting the coverings of their wings. Their larvae look the same as striped cucumber beetle larvae.

Common Plants Cucumber Beetles Attack

• Cucumbers
• Pumpkins
• Melons
• Squash
• Corn

When They Feed and Reproduce

Spotted cucumber beetles come out from April to early June, eat for 2 weeks and lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch into larvae, the larvae feed for 2 to 6 weeks before turning into adults and starting the cycle again. Spotted beetles have been known to produce up to 4 generations a year.

Striped Cucumber Beetles come out in spring. The adults lay their eggs near the soil’s surface, particularly near corn plants when they are available. Once the eggs hatch and larvae appear, they feed for 2 to 4 weeks before turning into adults and starting the life cycle again. Striped beetles can produce up to 3 generations each year.

How to Identify Cucumber Beetle Damage

When cucumber beetles have finished feeding and have moved on to new plants or to lay their eggs, they leave behind plenty of damage letting gardeners know they’ve been there. To identify damage left by these common garden pests, look for skeletal-like leaves that have browned and turned brittle. Also look for holes that have been chewed through flowers and fruits.

Image: © Patrice Beaulieu

4 Ways to Control Cucumber Beetles Organically

1. Floating Row Covers: Protect young plants with floating row covers as soon as seedlings germinate. This will help keep cucumber beetles away organically. Watch for plants to flower and as soon as they do, roll back the floating row covers for a few hours each day to allow the plants to be pollinated.

2. Wilt/Mosaic-Resistant Varieties: When choosing varieties of plants for the garden, plant those that are known to be resistant to wilt and mosaic virus. Seed companies include which viruses and diseases plants are resistant to in the plant’s description in catalogs and on seed packets.

3. Non-Bitter Varieties: Cucumber beetles prefer non-bitter varieties of cucumbers so plant non-bitter varieties in the garden.

4. Remove Dead Plants: When the growing season has come to a close, remove all dead plants and debris from the garden. This measure helps control cucumber beetles organically because the beetles over winter under clumps of dead plants.

When it comes to insects, cucumber beetles are one of the top garden pests in Maine. In this area, July is the prime month for adult beetles to begin emerging and leaving behind a path of destruction. The good news for organic gardeners; these pests can be controlled without the use of pesticides leaving the garden chemical-free.

What’s Going on in Gibby’s Garden?

It’s mid July and cucumber beetles are out in full force in Gibby’s Garden. This weekend I noticed the leaves of my squash plants had been heavily damaged by cucumber beetles. I sprinkled my plants with ground black pepper. This method is organic and works well in conjunction with the methods listed in this post. For some reason, cucumber beetles don’t like black pepper, but hey, neither do I.

Check out Gibby’s Garden Diary to see what else is going on in Gibby’s Garden.

Related Articles

How to Control Slugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Japanese Beetles Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Squash Bugs Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Imported Cabbageworms Organically

Guide to Identifying and Controlling Aphids Organically

Reference: Rodale Organic Gardening (2001). Basics:Pests Volume 7. Rodale Inc.

July Gardening Tips for the Vegetable Garden

Image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Ah, July - the heart and soul of the Maine summer and the peak growing season for vegetable gardens. This makes it the perfect time to head outdoors and give your vegetables a little extra support in terms of mulch, caging and weed and pest control.

July Gardening Checklist

- Extra Mulch: By now seedlings have grown into sturdy plants and could benefit from some extra mulching. Apply mulch to within an inch of the base of plants. This will help keep moisture in the ground and control those pesky weeds.

Tip: Look for areas where persistent weeds keep popping up. Push back the mulch, till the area to remove all weeds and their roots and re-mulch the area.

- Supports: Place cages around tomatoes if you haven’t already or any other plants that could use a little support. Push up the soil around plants that are starting to lean such as peppers and beans. Make sure all trellises are supported with stakes and ties and can handle the weight of vining plants and their soon to be vegetables.

Tip: If you don’t have cages, drive a stake into the ground within a few inches of large plants and loosely tie the stem of the plants to the stake. Tying them loosely won’t restrict the stem from growing or cause any damage.

- Weed Control: Thanks to all the humidity and rain we’ve had here in Maine this summer, weeds are thriving. Pull them before they take over the vegetable garden and especially before they go to seed. Apply extra mulch where needed and till the soil between rows in the garden.

Tip: Pull weeds while the ground is wet either after a rain or before the dew dries in the morning. It’s much easier to pull weeds from wet soil.

- Pest Check: Good and bad pests are already out. July is the month to watch for slugs, Japanese beetles, aphids, squash bugs and cucumber beetles. Hand pick them, set out organic traps and work to keep them under control. As more and more vegetable plants flower, more and more pests are going to be attracted to the vegetable garden.

Tip: Bring a pail or water bottle filled with soapy water out to the garden when handpicking pests. Drop pests into the soapy water where they’ll drown.

                       

What’s Going on in Gibby’s Garden in July?

My garden has been busy growing. The rain and humidity have made my broccoli and bean plants grow like crazy - something that’s made me very happy. I put tomato cages around my broccoli plants to prevent them from leaning even though they are nice and sturdy and have strong root systems.

I also pushed up the soil around my bean plants, which have started to flower, because they were starting to lean. This little bit of support will go a long way towards keeping the plants upright under the weight of the beans they are soon to produce.

                                                           

To find out what else is going on in Gibby’s Garden during the month of July, check out Gibby's Garden Diary. You may even be encouraged to start one of your own.

Guide to Backyard Composting

Image: Joi on Flickr

Backyard composting is a great way to recycle organic materials and turn them into nutrient rich plant food. Composting is pretty easy to do and doesn’t have to cost a penny. Use this guide to learn how to make and use compost, reap its benefits and find which composting bin is right for your backyard.

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

Ah compost, one of nature’s many valuable gardening resources. I love compost and I use it in my vegetable garden every year whether it’s from my backyard compost pile or composted manure from the farm. There are many reasons why you too should use compost.

Read full article . . .

6 Benefits of Backyard Composting

Attention all organic gardeners; are you composting? If you answered no, you should be. Backyard composting has many benefits that fit naturally into organic gardening. It’s easy to get started and unless you buy a compost bin, it won’t cost you a penny. The big plus is you’ll be cutting down on decomposable household waste and feeding your garden with organic ingredients.

Read full article . . .

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

What can and cannot go into a compost pile? This question is probably more common than you think and it’s one that I’ve thought about myself. Many gardeners stress about whether or not what they are adding to their compost piles is good, organic and or even safe.

Read full article . . .

Difference Between Hot and Cold Compost

There are 2 methods that can be used to make compost in the backyard: hot and cold. Each has it's own benefits and drawbacks making it important to know the difference between the 2 before getting started.

Read full article . . .

How to Make Hot Compost

Hot compost can be made in a backyard compost pile in as little as 2 months. It involves layering compost ingredients in the right order, keeping the pile moist and circulating with air and a little patience. In 6 easy to follow steps, finished compost can be added to the garden during the same growing season the pile was started in.

Read full article . . .

How to Make Cold Compost

Making your own compost is a great way to add vital nutrients to your garden organically. It’s pretty easy to do in your own backyard using the right ingredients and techniques.

Read full article . . .

How to Tell if Compost is Finished

Compost, also called “black gold” is a great way to fertilize gardens organically. Adding finished compost to the garden has many benefits, but did you know filling your beds with compost that is still decomposing can slow plant growth? That’s why it’s important to know when compost is finished, or in other words, when it has finished decomposing and is ready to work its magic in the garden.

Read full article . . .

How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Wondering just how much finished compost the garden really needs? You may be pleasantly surprised that a little compost goes a long way. Depending on the areas in which you live and the last time you amended the garden with compost, effects how much you need to add.

Read full article . . .

How to Calculate How Much Compost You Need to Cover Your Garden

Calculating how much compost you need to cover your garden is doable, even for those with less than stellar math skills. Most gardens only need between ½ to 2 inches of finished compost yearly. So, how do you measure how much compost you need to cover your garden with a ½ inch to 2 inches of compost? In order to figure this out, you’ll need to know the square footage of your garden and how many inches of compost you want to add.

                                   

Read full article . . .

The Compost Pile in Gibby’s Garden

Image: Patrice Beaulieu ©

I’ve been composting for a number of years now and I’ve never used any fancy equipment or store bought compost bins. I’d say I’m pretty laid back about my composting. Seeing as I’ve written a series of how-to posts about composting, I thought I’d share with you my compost pile.

I live in the woods in Maine which means I don’t have to worry about my neighbors being bothered by the site or smell of my pile; though I must say I’ve never had a problem with a smelly compost. I usually have 2 to 3 piles going at once from spring til fall in different stages of decomposition.

I chose to put my compost piles in the tree line behind the house. This location works well for me (unless there’s a foot of snow to walk through) because it’s close to the house but not so close that I have to see the pile every time I go in the backyard.

I don’t use a compost bin. My piles are directly on the ground which has its benefits - it’s easier for the earth worms to make their way into the piles. I collected a bunch of fallen branches and stacked them about 6 inches high into a 3-sided rectangle. I didn’t fully enclose my compost pile so I could walk right in with a wheelbarrow. I have about a foot of space between my compost pile and my make-shift “bin.” This allows me to easily walk around the pile and mix it up when I need too.

I start each of my piles with a base of brown leaves. Since my piles are in the woods these brown ingredients are readily available. As I weed my gardens I toss in the green ingredients as long as they haven’t gone to seed. I don’t want a bunch of weed seeds in my compost seeing as I use the cold composting method which doesn’t decompose weed seeds.

I turn my piles about once a month with a pitch fork and sometimes more often if the piles start to compact. I also add kitchen scraps such as egg shells, coffee grounds and the filters and a bunch of other decomposable ingredients.

Come fall I usually have a pile of finished compost which I till into the garden before the ground freezes. I like to work the finished compost into my gardens during this time of year so the nutrients have plenty of time to leach into the soil before the start of the next growing season.

Over the winter my I continue to add to my remaining pile. If I have 2 piles going I add to the pile with the least decomposition and allow the other pile to continue to decompose without adding ingredients. Having more than 1 pile going at a time allows the composting cycle to continue and gives me a good supply of finished compost every year.

As I write this post in early July, I have 2 piles going. I’ve stopped adding ingredients to my first compost pile and started a second which I’ll add to until late summer or early fall when I’ll start a third. See how the cycle continues?

What does your backyard composting entail?

Additional Composting Articles

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

6 Benefits of Composting

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

How to Make Cold Compost

How to Tell if Compost is Finished
How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Calculating How Much Compost You Need

Difference Between Hot and Cold Compost

Image: cogdogblog on Flickr

There are 2 methods that can be used to make compost in the backyard: hot and cold. Each has its own benefits and drawbacks, making it important to know the difference between the 2 before getting started.

What is Hot Compost?

Hot compost decomposes much faster than its cold counterpart. Using the hot method allows gardeners to make several piles of finished compost in 1 season. Typically, it takes about 2 months to make finished compost using the hot composting method. The drawback; the finished product contains less nitrogen than finished cold compost.

How to Make Hot Compost

What is Cold Compost?

Cold compost takes less of an effort to make and takes between 6 to 24 months to completely decompose. This method is easier to make because all a gardener has to do is add compost ingredients and occasionally turn the pile. Unlike hot compost, the cold variety doesn’t kill weed seeds or pathogens.

How to Make Cold Compost

                                               

Whether the hot or cold composting method is used, the benefits of finished compost make this gardening activity well worth it, especially for the organic gardener. I use the cold compost method and usually have 2 to 3 piles in different stages of decomposition going at once. I don’t mind the wait and since I’ve been composting for a number of years now, my gardens enjoy a dose of finished compost each season.

           

Additional Composting Articles

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

6 Benefits of Composting

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

How to Make Cold Compost

How to Make Hot Compost

How to Tell if Compost is Finished

How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Calculating How Much Compost You Need

Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc

How to Make Hot Compost

Image: woodleywonderworkson Flickr

Hot compost can be made in a backyard compost pile in as little as 2 months. It involves layering compost ingredients in the right order, keeping the pile moist and circulating with air, and a little patience. In 6 easy to follow steps, finished compost can be added to the garden during the same growing season the pile was started in.

Hot Compost Supplies

• Brown Ingredients
• Green Ingredients
• Straw or Brown Hay*
• Garden Soil (1 to 2 Shovels Worth)
• 3 foot x 3 foot Space for Compost Pile

List of Compost Ingredients - This post lists both brown and green ingredients for an easy reference.

Steps to Make Hot Compost

Step 1: Make a Straw/Hay Base

Spread a layer of straw/hay in the 3' x 3' space. The straw will act as a base for the pile and keep the rest of the ingredients off of the ground. Make the base about 3 to 4 inches thick.

Step 2: Building the Pile

• Add green ingredients to the top of the base measuring a few inches thick
• Add a thin layer of soil over the greens
• Add a layer of brown materials (for larger materials such as dry leaves, shred them first so they’ll decompose faster)
• Moisten the compost pile

Tip: Keep a 3:1 ratio of brown ingredients to green ingredients

Step 3: Growing the Hot Compost Pile

Continue adding layers in the order listed under step 2 topping off the brown materials with a thin layer of straw until the compost pile is roughly 3 feet high. Add the layers as the ingredients become available. It’s okay to stockpile ingredients in a separate pile for a short period of time until enough of them have been collected to add to the pile.

FYI: The thin layer of straw helps to promote air circulation throughout the hot compost pile.

Step 4: Turn the Pile

Turn the pile, a pitchfork works well, every 2 weeks. Make sure the center of the pile is worked to the edges and the edges of the pile are worked to the center. Turning the pile helps promote air circulation and speeds up the decomposition process.

Step 5: Water the Pile

Moisture is an important factor in hot composting. Keep the pile moist but don’t over do it. The ingredients in the compost pile should feel moist to the touch but not soggy.

Step 6: Use the Finished Compost

The center of the hot compost pile will decompose faster than the edges. When the center turns into finished compost, scoop out the material and leave the still decomposing edges in the pile. Use the unfinished compost to start a new pile.

Signs the Compost Pile is Getting Hot

Steam is a good indication that the compost pile is starting to get hot. Look for steam while mixing the pile for the first time. Earthworms are also a good sign; not that the pile is getting hot but that it’s going to start breaking down.

* Straw is sold at garden centers and mulch hay is available from landscaping companies, farms and some construction companies.

Additional Composting Articles

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

6 Benefits of Composting

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

How to Make Cold Compost

How to Make Hot Compost

How to Tell if Compost is Finished

How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Calculating How Much Compost You Need

Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc

Calculating How Much Compost You Need

Image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Calculating how much compost you need to cover your garden is doable, even for those with less than stellar math skills (which is totally me). As recommended in a previous post, How Much Compost to Add to the Garden, most gardens only need between ½ to 2 inches of finished compost yearly. So, how do you measure how much compost you need to cover your garden? In order to figure this out, you’ll need to know the square footage of your garden and how many inches of compost you want to add.

How to Calculate Compost Coverage in 3 Steps

Step 1: Calculate Square Footage

To calculate the square footage multiply the length by the width of your garden.

Length x Width = Square Footage

Example: 20' x 40' = 800sq. feet

Step 2: Multiply Square Footage by Compost Inches

To figure out how many inches of compost to add to your garden consult the aforementioned post How Much Compost to Add to the Garden. Multiply the square footage of your garden by the number of inches you want to add.

Example: 800 sq. feet x 1" = 800

Step 3: Divide by 12

Divide the product (total) from step 2 by 12. Doing this figures out how much cubic feet of compost you’ll need to spread it an inch thick.  

Example: 800/12 = 66.67 cubic feet

How to Measure Compost in Cubic Feet

This is where it can get tricky for those of us that are mathematically challenged. Organic Gardening suggests calculating the volume of the container holding your finished compost to figure out how much cubic feet of it you have.

To make things simpler, Organic Gardening has put together a list of conversions to make calculating the cubic feet of your compost even easier.

• 1 - 5 Gallon bucket of finished compost = 1 Cubic Foot of Finished Compost

(1 Cubic Foot of finished compost covers 12 Square Feet with 1 inch of compost)

• 1 - 30 Gallon Garbage Can of finished compost = roughly 4 Cubic Feet of Finished Compost

(4 Cubic Feet of finished compost covers 48 Square Feet with 1 inch of compost)

• 1 Finished yard of compost = 27 Cubic Feet or 200 Gallons or 1080 lbs. of Finished Compost

(27 Cubic Feet of finished compost covers 324 Square Feet with 1 inch of compost)

How to Measure Volume & Turn it into Cubic Feet

Here’s the formula to measure the volume of the container holding your finished compost.

Length x Width x Depth = Volume

Next divide the volume by 27 which tells you how many cubic yards of finished compost you have.

1 Yard = 27 Square Feet

1 Cubic Yard = 27 Cubic Feet

Cubic Yard to Cubic Feet Conversion Chart

I know I alluded to my less than savvy math skills above so I had someone double check the formulas listed above before posting this. The steps above are pretty easy to follow and calculating how much compost you really need gives you a rough idea of how much compost you need to make. 

What's your best composting tip?

Additional Composting Articles

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

6 Benefits of Composting

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

How to Make Cold Compost

How to Make Hot Compost

How to Tell if Compost is Finished

How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Calculating How Much Compost You Need

Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc

How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Image: kirstyhall,on Flickr

Wondering just how much finished compost the garden really needs? You may be pleasantly surprised that a little goes a long way. Depending on the areas in which you live and the last time you amended the garden with compost, effects how much you need to add.

Organic Gardening has broken down how much compost to use in an easy to follow guide. Here is what they recommend:

New Garden Beds

First Application: If you plan on adding compost to a new garden bed 1 time throughout the season, till in 1 to 2 inches of finished compost. Work it into the soil about 4 to 5 inches deep. For new garden beds in areas with heavy rainfall or in the deep south, till in 2 to 4 inches of compost.

USDA Zones 4 or Colder: Areas in USDA zone 4 or colder have short growing seasons which means the garden has less time to utilize the finished compost. Gardens in these areas need less compost, only an inch for the first application and a ½ inch annually after that. Again, till the added compost about 4 to 5 inches deep.

Annual Applications

Second + Applications: After the first application, garden beds only need a ½ inch of compost annually. Gardens in the south, areas with heavy rainfall or those with sandy soil will benefit from 1 inch of finished compost yearly.

Heavy Feeders: Some plants are heavy feeders and benefit from 1/4 inch of finished compost about midway through their growing season. (Consult a growing guide for specific vegetables on when to add compost) Rhubarb, corn, tomatoes and peppers are a few vegetables considered heavy feeders.

Succession Crops: If you plant succession crops, add 1/8 to 1/4 inch of finished compost to the soil before your second planting and so on. Adding this tiny bit of compost will get succession crops off to a healthy and productive start.

As you can see, a little compost really does go a long way. As the years go by after the first application is added, you’ll need to use less and less. Leftover nutrients, the one’s your plants were too full to consume, leach into the garden bed helping to keep it rich and fertile.

Additional Compost Articles

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

6 Benefits of Composting

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

How to Make Cold Compost

How to Make Hot Compost

Types of Backyard Compost Bins

How to Tell if Compost is Finished

Calculating How Much Compost You Need

Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc