Showing posts with label Compost. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Compost. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Tips for Making Winter Composting Easier


Image: Diego Grez/Public Domain
 Just because the snow is flying and temperatures are dropping doesn’t mean you can’t continue to add ingredients to your compost pile. There are a few steps you can take to make winter composting easier before and after winter weather sets in.

3 Tips for Composting in Winter


Tip #1: Mark Your Compost Pile

I compost directly on the ground meaning I don’t use a tumbler or bin. When fall rolls around and I’m ready to start the second pile of the season, I always pound 4 stakes into the ground to mark exactly where my pile is. This way when the snow starts to pile up, I have no problems locating my compost pile when I want to add scraps.

Tip #2: Buy a Kitchen Compost Bucket

Kitchen compost buckets are fairly inexpensive and a great way to collect kitchen scraps during the winter. Instead of trekking to your pile every day, you can store scraps in the bucket reducing the amount of trips you have to make outside to your pile.

These buckets are small and designed to fit on the counter or under the sink. They lock in odor and some come with bags to make keeping the bucket clean easier. Simply remove the bag or carry the bucket itself out to the compost pile to empty it.

Tip #3: Keep a Path to the Compost Pile Shoveled

I always keep a small path to my compost pile shoveled beginning with the first adequate snow fall of the season. I shovel it after every storm to keep up with the snow and to prevent myself from having to carve out a path when the snow is a few feet deep - a killer on the back.

I make a point to add my scraps to the pile at least once a week during winter and don’t worry about turning my compost until the spring thaw reawakens the landscape around me. I try to spread out my scraps evenly on the pile over the fallen snow. When the snow melts in the spring, my scraps settle into place where they resume the decomposition process.

Do you have any tips to make winter composting easier?

Guide to Backyard Composting
Choosing the Best Location to Start a Fall Compost Pile

Monday, October 29, 2012

Choosing the Best Location to Start a Fall Compost Pile


Image: Sten/CC-BY-SA
If you’re wondering whether or not you can compost in the winter, the answer is yes and fall is a great time to start a new compost pile. There are several factors to consider when choosing the best location for your compost and depending on the region in which you live, the amount of snowfall you get is one of them.


4 Factors to Consider when Choosing a Location

When scouting out the best location to start your fall compost pile, consider the following factors and choose a location that is convenient to you and one that won’t cause friction with the neighbors come spring.

Proximity to House: If you live in an area that gets lots of snow fall and you are planning on adding scraps to your compost throughout the winter, then choose a location that is close enough to your home so that you won’t have to trek through mounds of snow to reach your pile.


Spring and Summer Considerations: When choosing a location, keep in mind that when the snow melts your compost pile will be visible. Since it won’t be fully composted yet, make sure to choose a location you’ll be happy with come spring.

Proximity to Neighbors: Will your neighbors be able to see or smell your compost pile once the snow has gone? Consider the proximity to your neighbors property line and their field of vision and smell when choosing a location this fall.

Type of Compost Bin: If you use a tumbler, your best bet is to choose a location with some cover so you won't have to dig through a pile of snow to open the tumbler or give it a good spin. If your bin is on the ground, don’t worry about shielding it from the snow as snow won’t hurt the compost pile.

Monday, July 16, 2012

Guide to Backyard Composting



Backyard composting is a great way to recycle organic materials and turn them into nutrient rich plant food. Composting is pretty easy to do and doesn’t have to cost a penny. Use this guide to learn how to make and use compost, reap its benefits and find which composting bin is right for your backyard.

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food

Ah compost, one of nature’s many valuable gardening resources. I love compost and I use it in my vegetable garden every year whether it’s from my backyard compost pile or composted manure from the farm. There are many reasons why you too should use compost.



6 Benefits of Backyard Composting

Attention all organic gardeners; are you composting? If you answered no, you should be. Backyard composting has many benefits that fit naturally into organic gardening. It’s easy to get started and unless you buy a compost bin, it won’t cost you a penny. The big plus is you’ll be cutting down on decomposable household waste and feeding your garden with organic ingredients.


List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients

What can and cannot go into a compost pile? This question is probably more common than you think and it’s one that I’ve thought about myself. Many gardeners stress about whether or not what they are adding to their compost piles is good, organic and or even safe.

Difference Between Hot and Cold Compost

There are 2 methods that can be used to make compost in the backyard: hot and cold. Each has it's own benefits and drawbacks making it important to know the difference between the 2 before getting started.


How to Make Hot Compost

Hot compost can be made in a backyard compost pile in as little as 2 months. It involves layering compost ingredients in the right order, keeping the pile moist and circulating with air and a little patience. In 6 easy to follow steps, finished compost can be added to the garden during the same growing season the pile was started in.


How to Make Cold Compost

Making your own compost is a great way to add vital nutrients to your garden organically. It’s pretty easy to do in your own backyard using the right ingredients and techniques.


How to Tell if Compost is Finished

Compost, also called “black gold” is a great way to fertilize gardens organically. Adding finished compost to the garden has many benefits, but did you know filling your beds with compost that is still decomposing can slow plant growth? That’s why it’s important to know when compost is finished, or in other words, when it has finished decomposing and is ready to work its magic in the garden.


How Much Compost to Add to the Garden

Wondering just how much finished compost the garden really needs? You may be pleasantly surprised that a little compost goes a long way. Depending on the areas in which you live and the last time you amended the garden with compost, effects how much you need to add.


How to Calculate How Much Compost You Need to Cover Your Garden

Calculating how much compost you need to cover your garden is doable, even for those with less than stellar math skills. Most gardens only need between ½ to 2 inches of finished compost yearly. So, how do you measure how much compost you need to cover your garden with a ½ inch to 2 inches of compost? In order to figure this out, you’ll need to know the square footage of your garden and how many inches of compost you want to add.
                                   

Friday, July 13, 2012

The Compost Pile in Gibby’s Garden


Image: Patrice Beaulieu ©
I’ve been composting for a number of years now and I’ve never used any fancy equipment or store bought compost bins. I’d say I’m pretty laid back about my composting. Seeing as I’ve written a series of how-to posts about composting, I thought I’d share with you my compost pile.

I live in the woods in Maine which means I don’t have to worry about my neighbors being bothered by the site or smell of my pile; though I must say I’ve never had a problem with a smelly compost. I usually have 2 to 3 piles going at once from spring til fall in different stages of decomposition.

I chose to put my compost piles in the tree line behind the house. This location works well for me (unless there’s a foot of snow to walk through) because it’s close to the house but not so close that I have to see the pile every time I go in the backyard.

I don’t use a compost bin. My piles are directly on the ground which has its benefits - it’s easier for the earth worms to make their way into the piles. I collected a bunch of fallen branches and stacked them about 6 inches high into a 3-sided rectangle. I didn’t fully enclose my compost pile so I could walk right in with a wheelbarrow. I have about a foot of space between my compost pile and my make-shift “bin.” This allows me to easily walk around the pile and mix it up when I need too.

I start each of my piles with a base of brown leaves. Since my piles are in the woods these brown ingredients are readily available. As I weed my gardens I toss in the green ingredients as long as they haven’t gone to seed. I don’t want a bunch of weed seeds in my compost seeing as I use the cold composting method which doesn’t decompose weed seeds.

I turn my piles about once a month with a pitch fork and sometimes more often if the piles start to compact. I also add kitchen scraps such as egg shells, coffee grounds and the filters and a bunch of other decomposable ingredients.

Come fall I usually have a pile of finished compost which I till into the garden before the ground freezes. I like to work the finished compost into my gardens during this time of year so the nutrients have plenty of time to leach into the soil before the start of the next growing season.

Over the winter my I continue to add to my remaining pile. If I have 2 piles going I add to the pile with the least decomposition and allow the other pile to continue to decompose without adding ingredients. Having more than 1 pile going at a time allows the composting cycle to continue and gives me a good supply of finished compost every year.

As I write this post in early July, I have 2 piles going. I’ve stopped adding ingredients to my first compost pile and started a second which I’ll add to until late summer or early fall when I’ll start a third. See how the cycle continues?

What does your backyard composting entail?

Additional Composting Articles




Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Difference Between Hot and Cold Compost


There are 2 methods that can be used to make compost in the backyard: hot and cold. Each has its own benefits and drawbacks, making it important to know the difference between the 2 before getting started.

What is Hot Compost?


Hot compost decomposes much faster than its cold counterpart. Using the hot method allows gardeners to make several piles of finished compost in 1 season. Typically, it takes about 2 months to make finished compost using the hot composting method. The drawback; the finished product contains less nitrogen than finished cold compost.

What is Cold Compost?


Cold compost takes less of an effort to make and takes between 6 to 24 months to completely decompose. This method is easier to make because all a gardener has to do is add compost ingredients and occasionally turn the pile. Unlike hot compost, the cold variety doesn’t kill weed seeds or pathogens.

                                               
Whether the hot or cold composting method is used, the benefits of finished compost make this gardening activity well worth it, especially for the organic gardener. I use the cold compost method and usually have 2 to 3 piles in different stages of decomposition going at once. I don’t mind the wait and since I’ve been composting for a number of years now, my gardens enjoy a dose of finished compost each season.
           

Additional Composting Articles




Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc



Monday, July 9, 2012

How to Make Hot Compost


Hot compost can be made in a backyard compost pile in as little as 2 months. It involves layering compost ingredients in the right order, keeping the pile moist and circulating with air, and a little patience. In 6 easy to follow steps, finished compost can be added to the garden during the same growing season the pile was started in.

Hot Compost Supplies


  • Brown Ingredients
  • Green Ingredients
  • Straw or Brown Hay*
  • Garden Soil (1 to 2 Shovels Worth)
  • 3 foot x 3 foot Space for Compost Pile


List of Compost Ingredients - This post lists both brown and green ingredients for an easy reference.

Steps to Make Hot Compost


Step 1: Make a Straw/Hay Base


Spread a layer of straw/hay in the 3' x 3' space. The straw will act as a base for the pile and keep the rest of the ingredients off of the ground. Make the base about 3 to 4 inches thick.

Step 2: Building the Pile



  • Add green ingredients to the top of the base measuring a few inches thick
  • Add a thin layer of soil over the greens
  • Add a layer of brown materials (for larger materials such as dry leaves, shred them first so they’ll decompose faster)
  • Moisten the compost pile

Tip: Keep a 3:1 ratio of brown ingredients to green ingredients

Step 3: Growing the Hot Compost Pile


Continue adding layers in the order listed under step 2 topping off the brown materials with a thin layer of straw until the compost pile is roughly 3 feet high. Add the layers as the ingredients become available. It’s okay to stockpile ingredients in a separate pile for a short period of time until enough of them have been collected to add to the pile.

FYI: The thin layer of straw helps to promote air circulation throughout the hot compost pile.

Step 4: Turn the Pile


Turn the pile, a pitchfork works well, every 2 weeks. Make sure the center of the pile is worked to the edges and the edges of the pile are worked to the center. Turning the pile helps promote air circulation and speeds up the decomposition process.

Step 5: Water the Pile


Moisture is an important factor in hot composting. Keep the pile moist but don’t over do it. The ingredients in the compost pile should feel moist to the touch but not soggy.

Step 6: Use the Finished Compost


The center of the hot compost pile will decompose faster than the edges. When the center turns into finished compost, scoop out the material and leave the still decomposing edges in the pile. Use the unfinished compost to start a new pile.

Signs the Compost Pile is Getting Hot


Steam is a good indication that the compost pile is starting to get hot. Look for steam while mixing the pile for the first time. Earthworms are also a good sign; not that the pile is getting hot but that it’s going to start breaking down.

* Straw is sold at garden centers and mulch hay is available from landscaping companies, farms and some construction companies.

Additional Composting Articles


Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc





Friday, July 6, 2012

Calculating How Much Compost You Need


Calculating how much compost you need to cover your garden is doable, even for those with less than stellar math skills (which is totally me). As recommended in a previous post, How Much Compost to Add to the Garden, most gardens only need between ½ to 2 inches of finished compost yearly. So, how do you measure how much compost you need to cover your garden? In order to figure this out, you’ll need to know the square footage of your garden and how many inches of compost you want to add.

How to Calculate Compost Coverage in 3 Steps


Step 1: Calculate Square Footage

To calculate the square footage multiply the length by the width of your garden.

Length x Width = Square Footage
Example: 20' x 40' = 800sq. feet

Step 2: Multiply Square Footage by Compost Inches

To figure out how many inches of compost to add to your garden consult the aforementioned post How Much Compost to Add to the Garden. Multiply the square footage of your garden by the number of inches you want to add.

Example: 800 sq. feet x 1" = 800

Step 3: Divide by 12

Divide the product (total) from step 2 by 12. Doing this figures out how much cubic feet of compost you’ll need to spread it an inch thick.  

Example: 800/12 = 66.67 cubic feet

How to Measure Compost in Cubic Feet


This is where it can get tricky for those of us that are mathematically challenged. Organic Gardening suggests calculating the volume of the container holding your finished compost to figure out how much cubic feet of it you have.

To make things simpler, Organic Gardening has put together a list of conversions to make calculating the cubic feet of your compost even easier.


  • 1 - 5 Gallon bucket of finished compost = 1 Cubic Foot of Finished Compost
(1 Cubic Foot of finished compost covers 12 Square Feet with 1 inch of compost)

  • 1 - 30 Gallon Garbage Can of finished compost = roughly 4 Cubic Feet of Finished Compost
(4 Cubic Feet of finished compost covers 48 Square Feet with 1 inch of compost)

  • 1 Finished yard of compost = 27 Cubic Feet or 200 Gallons or 1080 lbs. of Finished Compost
(27 Cubic Feet of finished compost covers 324 Square Feet with 1 inch of compost)

How to Measure Volume & Turn it into Cubic Feet

Here’s the formula to measure the volume of the container holding your finished compost.

Length x Width x Depth = Volume

Next divide the volume by 27 which tells you how many cubic yards of finished compost you have.

1 Yard = 27 Square Feet
1 Cubic Yard = 27 Cubic Feet


I know I alluded to my less than savvy math skills above so I had someone double check the formulas listed above before posting this. The steps above are pretty easy to follow and calculating how much compost you really need gives you a rough idea of how much compost you need to make. 

What's your best composting tip?

Additional Composting Articles



Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc




Wednesday, July 4, 2012

How Much Compost to Add to the Garden


Wondering just how much finished compost the garden really needs? You may be pleasantly surprised that a little goes a long way. Depending on the areas in which you live and the last time you amended the garden with compost, effects how much you need to add.

Organic Gardening has broken down how much compost to use in an easy to follow guide. Here is what they recommend:

New Garden Beds


First Application: If you plan on adding compost to a new garden bed 1 time throughout the season, till in 1 to 2 inches of finished compost. Work it into the soil about 4 to 5 inches deep. For new garden beds in areas with heavy rainfall or in the deep south, till in 2 to 4 inches of compost.

USDA Zones 4 or Colder: Areas in USDA zone 4 or colder have short growing seasons which means the garden has less time to utilize the finished compost. Gardens in these areas need less compost, only an inch for the first application and a ½ inch annually after that. Again, till the added compost about 4 to 5 inches deep.

Annual Applications


Second + Applications: After the first application, garden beds only need a ½ inch of compost annually. Gardens in the south, areas with heavy rainfall or those with sandy soil will benefit from 1 inch of finished compost yearly.

Heavy Feeders: Some plants are heavy feeders and benefit from 1/4 inch of finished compost about midway through their growing season. (Consult a growing guide for specific vegetables on when to add compost) Rhubarb, corn, tomatoes and peppers are a few vegetables considered heavy feeders.

Succession Crops: If you plant succession crops, add 1/8 to 1/4 inch of finished compost to the soil before your second planting and so on. Adding this tiny bit of compost will get succession crops off to a healthy and productive start.

As you can see, a little compost really does go a long way. As the years go by after the first application is added, you’ll need to use less and less. Leftover nutrients, the one’s your plants were too full to consume, leach into the garden bed helping to keep it rich and fertile.

Additional Compost Articles





Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc


Friday, June 29, 2012

How to Tell if Compost is Finished


Compost, also called “black gold,” is a great way to fertilize gardens organically. Adding finished compost to the garden has many benefits, but did you know filling your beds with compost that is still decomposing can slow plant growth?

That’s why it’s important to know when compost is finished, or in other words, when it has finished decomposing and is ready to work its magic in the garden.

What is Finished Compost?


Finished compost is organic materials that have completed the decomposition process.

Characteristics of Finished Compost


Compost has many telltale signs that it has finished decomposing. Look for the following characteristics before adding black gold to the garden.


  • Dark Brown in Color
  • Sweet & Earthy Smell
  • Moist
  • Crumbly
  • Spongy
  • Non Identifiable Compost Ingredients

Finished Compost Test


Not sure if the compost pile has turned into black gold yet? There are 2 methods, recommended by Organic Gardening, to tell if it has truly finished decomposing. Here’s how:

Sniff Test: Scoop a handful of compost into a Mason jar, make sure it’s moist, and put the lid on. Place the jar in the sun for 3 days and then open it and take a big whiff. If it smells like freshly tilled soil, the compost is ready. If it gives off a foul odor of any kind, it needs more time to decompose.

Germination Test: Mix equal parts compost and potting soil in a pot and plant a few radish seeds. Mix the same amount of potting soil in a separate pot and plant more radish seeds. If the pots germinate the seeds at the same pace, the compost is finished. If the pot with the compost germinates and grows the seeds at a slower rate, than the compost isn’t finished yet.

Finished compost can be added to the garden any time of year. If you have unfinished compost by the time fall rolls around, go ahead and add it to the garden so it will have plenty of time to finish decomposing before the growing season begins the following spring.

Additional Composting Articles




Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc


Monday, June 25, 2012

How to Make Cold Compost


Image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net
Making your own compost is a great way to add vital nutrients to your garden organically. It’s pretty easy to do in your own backyard using the right ingredients and techniques.

The wonderful folks from Rodale, a publisher of many organic gardening books, summed up the 4 components you need to create compost pretty well so I’ll repeat it here: “Air + Water + Carbon + Nitrogen = Compost,” and guess what, it’s pretty easy to create in your own backyard.

Choose a Spot for Your Compost Pile


First, pick a spot for your compost pile. If you have lots of space this shouldn’t be a problem. I live in the woods so I have mine at the edge of the lawn where the tree line begins. It’s out of the way, but still in a convenient spot.

If you have limited space or neighbors in close proximity, pick a spot where your compost pile won’t bother you or your neighbors. For those with limited space, you may want to buy a tumbler or small compost bin to keep your neighbors happy. These look good in the yard and lock odor.

Working with the 4 Components: Air, Water, Carbon & Nitrogen


Air

Your compost pile needs air circulating in and around it. To tell if your compost is getting enough air, look at its density. Are the ingredients fluffy or compacted? A fluffy pile is porous, meaning it has air circulating through it. A compacted pile does not. Do your compost pile a favor and turn its contents when you notice they’re starting to compact. I turn mine about once a month using a pitch fork.

Water

Water is an essential part of composting. To help your compost pile breakdown at a steady pace, keep it damp. If its constantly sopping wet it will start to smell, slow air circulation and drop in temperature. A pile that’s too dry will breakdown slowly due to a lack of heat.

Carbon

Microbes are responsible for breaking down a compost pile and carbon is responsible for feeding them. Feeding your compost carbon-rich ingredients provides microbes with much needed energy. Carbon is found in organic matter such as fallen leaves, straw and corn stalks.

Nitrogen

Much like microbes need carbon, they also need nitrogen to feed on. Nitrogen is full of proteins which help microbes to grow and then breakdown compost. Nitrogen can be found in matter such as fresh grass clippings and leaves.

Creating your Compost Pile with Ingredients


I put together a list of good and bad compost ingredients that you can look over so you know what to put in your pile. When adding ingredients, it’s best to keep a 30:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio. This really isn’t as hard as it sounds. Organic Gardening suggests adding 1 part carbon-rich ingredients such as grass clippings to 2 parts nitrogen-rich ingredients such as dead leaves to get the right ratio.

This ratio helps your compost breakdown faster. If you don’t hit the ratio your pile will still breakdown, it’ll just take a little longer. The folks at Organic Gardening say that compost piles with too much nitrogen can start to smell and those with too much carbon take longer to decompose.

Carbon-rich ingredients are often called “brown” ingredients. This is because they’re dry ingredients as opposed to fresh. Brown garden debris, hedge prunings and twigs, leaves, pine needles and straw all contain carbon when brown or yellowed due to dryness.

Nitrogen-rich ingredients are called “green” ingredients. Green ingredients are still moist and fresher than those that are brown. These include aquarium water, algae and plants from fresh water tanks, chicken manure, dead houseplants, fresh grass clippings, green garden debris and horse manure.

Tending the Compost Pile


Compost is decomposed organic matter so you’ll want to add ingredients that breakdown. The faster they breakdown, the faster you’ll get compost. Toss your ingredients into your pile to get it started. Don’t worry if you don’t have a lot of ingredients at first, they can be added continuously over time.

Keep adding your ingredients as they become available, remembering to keep the carbon/nitrogen ratio in check. Once you have a good-sized pile, allow it to decompose and turn itself into compost. If need be, hose the pile down once in a while to keep it moist. Give the compost pile a good toss if starts to compact.

When enough of your compost pile has decomposed to spread in your garden, scoop out the dark, fine material leaving behind the ingredients that haven’t decomposed yet. At that time, start your new pile.

By mid summer I usually I have a second pile going. I add to this pile well into fall and during the winter. When spring rolls around and I have green ingredients once again, I begin adding those to my pile to balance out the brown ingredients and the cycle begins again.

Making your own compost is pretty easy. As long as the ingredients you add are decomposable and are free of toxins and other chemicals, you’re on the right track.


Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc.


Friday, June 22, 2012

List of Good and Bad Compost Ingredients


Image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net
What can and cannot go into a compost pile? This question is probably more common than you think and it’s one that I’ve thought about myself. Many gardeners stress about whether or not what they are adding to their compost piles is good, organic and or even safe.

To make things a little easier and less stressful, I consulted Rodale’s “Make Compost in 14 Days” guide and put together a list of compost ingredients that are good, bad and okay in moderation. I wanted to consult the pros and provide you with an excellent and trustworthy reference to ease any composting fears you may have.

Why do Compost Ingredients Matter?


A healthy compost pile has lots of scraps that contain nitrogen and/or carbon. Both of these compounds help the pile breakdown creating nutrient rich compost. 

Examples of Carbon Rich Ingredients


Microbes, those tiny guys that breakdown compost ingredients, feed on carbon. Carbon provides them with energy to do their work.Carbon rich ingredients are “brown” ingredients. This includes organic matter that is dry and brown or yellow in color.


  • Dead Leaves
  • Straw
  • Dead Flowers
  • Corn Stalks
  • Brown Garden Debris
  • Hedge Prunings
  • Twigs
  • Pine Needles
  • Straw

Examples of Nitrogen Rich Ingredients


Nitrogen rich ingredients are important because they provide microbes with protein. Protein helps them to bulk up and get the job done. Nitrogen rich ingredients are “green” ingredients. These include organic matter that is moist.


  • Green Leaves
  • Fresh Grass Clippings
  • Plant-Based Kitchen Scraps
  • Chicken/Horse Manure
  • Aquarium Water/Algae/Plants (fresh water only)
  • Dead House Plants
  • Green Garden Debris

Good Compost Ingredients


Anything that goes into your compost pile should be biodegradable, meaning it needs to be able to breakdown naturally. This includes most plant materials and lots of kitchen and yard scraps. Before tossing ingredients into your compost pile make sure they are free of chemicals, diseases and toxins.


  • Plant Materials (disease, toxin & chemical free) *
  • Kitchen Scraps (no meat or dairy products - this includes bones)
  • Leaves
  • Twigs
  • Grass Clippings
  • Pine Needles
  • Straw
  • Garden Debris
  • Fresh Water Aquarium Water/Algae/Plants
* Any diseased materials or those containing toxins and chemicals must be kept out of the compost. Disease and other toxins can leach into your compost making for an unhealthy garden and inedible fruits and vegetables.

FYI - Did you know that rhubarb leaves are poisonous? Keep these out of the compost but go ahead and add the stalks and peelings.

Bad Compost Ingredients


If you don’t know whether something is biodegradable or chemical and toxin free, don’t add it to your compost. Why take the chance? Also, if any of your yard scraps, i.e. weeds have gone to seed, meaning their seeds have developed, keep those out of your compost as well. Most weed seeds will have no problem establishing themselves in the garden once the compost has been applied.


  • Diseased Plants/Garden Debris
  • Domestic Animal/Reptile Manure (this includes pig manure) *
  • Paper (anything glossy or printed with color)
  • Meat
  • Bones
  • Dairy Products
  • Black Walnut Leaves/Bark/Chips (naturally contains a chemical called juglone which slows or stops plant growth)
  • Gypsum Board Scraps (may contain toxins or paints)
  • Plant Materials not from Your Yard (only put materials from your yard into your compost to ensure they don’t contain any chemicals or toxins)
* Horse and chicken manure are safe to add to your compost. These are great organic ways to add nitrogen. Other types of manure can contain parasites or harmful pathogens that can make you sick. STAY AWAY from these.

Okay Compost Ingredients


The list of “okay” compost ingredients should only be added to the compost pile in moderation or in certain ways. Most of these ingredients breakdown very slowly and some may even contain elements that aren’t biodegradable. Though these items can be added infrequently in small amounts, you can forgo them all together if it makes you more comfortable.


  • Cardboard: Shred or chop it up first to help it breakdown faster.
  • Black & White Newspaper: Shred it first.
  • Dryer Lint: Can contain non-biodegradable fibers.
  • Human/Pet Hair: Takes a long time to decompose, doesn’t hold water and mats.
  • Sawdust: Must be untreated. Can hog nitrogen.
  • Vacuum Bags: Can contain non-biodegradable fibers and other items.
  • Wood Ash: High in alkalinity. Remember, not all plants grow well in alkaline soil.          
For the best results, your compost pile should have a 30:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio. This helps the pile breakdown at a steady pace without emitting a funky odor. Compost piles with too much nitrogen start to stink and piles with too little carbon take longer to decompose.

The folks at Organic Gardening suggest adding 1 part nitrogen rich ingredients such as grass clippings to 2 parts carbon rich ingredients such as dead leaves to keep your compost pile decomposing at the right pace.


Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc.


Wednesday, June 20, 2012

6 Benefits of Backyard Composting


Image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net
Attention all organic gardeners; are you composting? If you answered no, you should be. Backyard composting has many benefits that fit naturally into organic gardening. It’s easy to get started and unless you buy a compost bin, it won’t cost you a penny. The big plus is you’ll be cutting down on decomposable household waste and feeding your garden with organic ingredients.

Slow-Release Plant Food

Compost slowly releases its nutrients over time. This benefits your organic garden because it gets fed all season long without the need for chemicals. In early spring and late fall when the soil is cool, compost releases nutrients at slow rates. As soil temperatures warm, the release of nutrients speeds up when plants need them the most to produce flowers and fruit.

Over time, nutrients build up in the soil making it healthier and better able to retain the nutrients left behind from compost. Healthy soil needs less amending, i.e. less and less compost season to season.

Better Soil Aeration

Soil that doesn’t get enough air circulating through it becomes compacted. Compacted soil prevents water from soaking through which leads to pour seed germination and brittle, dry plants. Adding compost helps prevent this problem by allowing air to circulate and water to penetrate.

Fewer Plant Diseases

Did you know a touch of compost helps to prevent and control plant disease? Well, it does. According to a handful of studies referenced in Organic Gardening’s Make Compost in 14 Days, compost helps to prevent certain kinds of plant rot, turf diseases and mildew.

Drought Protection

Soil that contains compost has an easier time retaining moisture. Soil granules form in compost rich soil. These granules sop up water and hold on it. Furthermore, once compost has completely broken down it turns into humus. Humus rich soil is incredibly moist meaning you’ll spend less time watering the garden.

Put an End to Erosion

Loose and compost free soil has a hard time retaining water; when heavy rains and strong winds hit, they tend to wash it away. Mixing compost into the soil will help it retain moisture and grow strong plants preventing erosion. Humus rich soil is even better at preventing erosion.

Benefits the Environment

Composting benefits the environment in many ways. First, it cuts down on the amount of biodegradable kitchen and yard waste that takes up room in landfills. It also returns nutrients to the earth, naturally benefiting the environment around it. Using compost eliminates the need for chemical fertilizers as well.

Besides feeding my garden and being good for the environment, saving money is one of my favorite benefits of composting. Composting doesn’t cost a thing unless you invest in a composting bin. All the compost ingredients are found in and around the home and using compost in the garden eliminates the need to spend money on chemical laden fertilizers.


Additional Composting Articles



Reference: Organic Gardening (2007). Make Compost in 14 Days. Rodale Inc.



Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Compost: Nature’s Organic Plant Food


Photo: normanack, on Flickr
Ah compost, one of nature’s many valuable gardening resources. I love compost and I use it in my vegetable garden every year whether it’s from my backyard compost pile or composted manure from the farm. There are many reasons why you too should use compost.

What Exactly is Compost?


Compost, as defined by Princeton University, is “a mixture of decaying vegetation and manure; used as a fertilizer.” Vegetation can be anything from leaves and grass clippings to kitchen scraps. Manure of course, is usually cow or horse or mix of the two as is the case on my family’s farm.

Both vegetation and manure are organic materials which break down naturally in a compost pile. The end result is beautiful, dark soil full of nutrients that plants love to feed on. Telling the difference between compost and screened loam is all about the smell; compost has a forest-like smell to it.

Benefits of Compost


Compost has lots of great benefits and they are noticeable. To get the most out of compost, apply it to the garden in late fall before the ground freezes. This allows nutrients to work their way into the soil and replenish it come spring and summer.

Compost isn’t a one shot deal. What do I mean? Compost releases its nutrients over time, feeding your garden throughout the entire growing season. Here’s a list of additional benefits in case you need more convincing.

  • Great for Amending Sandy and Clay Soil
  • Helps Retain Moisture in Soil
  • Produces Healthier Plants
  • Produces Fruits and Vegetables with More Nutrients
  • Helps Soil Retain Nutrients Longer
  • Releases Beneficial Organisms
  • Cuts Down on Pests
  • Reduces Need for Pest Control

So there you have it, the many benefits of using compost in the garden. For more information on how to make and use your own compost, check out this Homeowners’ Composting Guide.