How to Grow Beans in the North

Flowering Beans - Gibby's Garden

Beans are an easy vegetable to grow in the north, as well as in other regions of the country. There is no need to start seeds indoors, simply pick a variety or two and direct-sow them. Simply sow seeds in the right soil and under the right conditions to enjoy a bountiful crop of fresh, organic beans straight from the garden.

Plant Type: Annual
Genus: Fabaceae Family
Name: Phaseolus vulgaris

Guide to Growing Beans in the North

When growing different types of beans, always consult the back of the seed packet to ensure proper spacing and support requirements for each variety. Beans do not need to be started indoors because A - they don’t transplant well, and B - they produce early enough to accommodate the North’s growing season.

Where to Plant: Plant in full-sun in well-draining, loamy soil.

Plant Spacing: Follow specific spacing instructions on the back of the seed packet as different types and varieties of beans differ in spacing requirements. For example, bush beans are typically spaced 3" apart while pole beans are spaced 3" apart. Most varieties of pole beans will need to grow along a support such as a trellis or fence.

Fertilization: If need be, till compost or an organic fertilizer light in nitrogen. Soil with high levels of nitrogen produce bigger, fuller plants and fewer beans compared to soil with normal nitrogen levels.

Watering: Water beans regularly, making sure to water on sunny days in the early mornings.

Care: Mulch around beans to prevent weeds and retain moisture. Beans have shallow root systems so take care when weeding as to not disturb the plant’s roots. 

How to Harvest Beans

Harvest when beans have reached their maturity by plucking from the plant. Over-mature beans get tough and woody. Allow the beans to reach their full length and color before harvesting. Some varieties of beans can be harvested before they are mature for more tender beans. Consult the back of the seed packet for days to maturity. 

Pest and Disease Control

Beans are known for attracting 3 types of “bad” bugs: aphids, Japanese beetles and Mexican bean beetles. Handpick the pests and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. If a severe aphid infestation occurs, lightly spray beans with a mild, soapy water in the early mornings to kill off and prevent aphids.  

Bean Mosiac and Downy Mildew are 2 viruses to watch out for when it comes to beans. Plant varieties resistant to these diseases which includes many heirloom varieties. Check the backs of seed packets as well as descriptions in seed catalogs to ensure disease resistance.

When it comes to garden pests, aphids are the ones to watch out for. Inspect the undersides of leaves on bean plants and if an aphid infestation is present, spray plants with mild, soapy water. 

Food Preservation

Beans can be eaten fresh, canned and frozen. 

Gibby's Garden

Types of Beans

Bush Beans: Plants are compact and do not need support unless otherwise stated. Bush beans typically produce their crop at once.

Pole Beans: Vining plants that grow best on trellises or fences. They produce beans over an extended period of time. 

Snap Beans: Snap beans can be both bush or pole varieties and are referred to as “stringless.”

Dry Beans: Beans made for shelling after plants have lost most leaves & have been allowed to dry.

Shell Beans: Beans made for shelling when fresh. Typically boiled or steamed before eating.

Colors: Green, yellow, purple

Varieties of Beans

Green Bush Beans

Advantage Bush Bean

Roma II: High-yields. Broad pods keep fresh taste and bright green color after processing. Plants grow upright. 59 days.

Early Contender: Early variety. Stringless pods grow 6-8" long and are tender. Cans and freezes well. Tolerates Mosiac Virus, heat and greasy pod. 49 days.

Blue Lake 274: High-yields produce all at once. Smooth pods grow 6-6 ½" long. Texture is firm and color is deep. 58 days.

Trofeo: High-yielding filet bean. Crisp, tender pods grow long and provide a buttery flavor. Resists Halo Blight, Anthracnose and bean Mosiac Virus. 58 days.

Jade: Long harvest period. Tender, stringless, straight pods grow 6 ½" long. Provides a sweet taste. Keeps bright green color when frozen. Easily adaptable. 60 days.

Derby: High-yields over long season. Tender, stringless pods grow to 7" long. Easy harvest. Good resistance to bean Mosiac Virus. 57 days.

Provider: Early variety. Adapts easily. Grows well in cool soil. 50 days.

Fresh Pick: High-yielding over extended period. Plants grow large; fewer needed for large crop. 53 days.

Foremost: High-yields. Medium-sized plants can be hand or machine harvested. 53 days.

E-Z Pick: Beans mature all at once for an easy harvest. Plants are sturdy and upright. 55 days.

Venture: Extra-early variety. Extended harvest. Pods are crisp and tender and grow to 5”.  Great for northern gardens; tolerates cool soil. 48 days.

Kentucky Wonder 125: Early variety. High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long. Tender beans compare to the pole variety. No staking needed. 45 days. 

Tenderette: High-yielding over extended season. Stringless, straight pods grow 5” long. Flavorful. Cans and freezes well. 58 days.

Festina: Dark green pods are packed with vitamins. Pods grow 6” long. Provides crisp, tender-sweet taste. Great for hot climates. 56 days.

Nash: Early variety. High-yielding. Straight pods grow 5 3/4” long and are plump and succulent. Great for warm climates. 54 days.

Advantage: High-yielding with slow seed development. Extended harvest. Long, slender pods grow 6 ½" long and are moist and tender. Full of flavor and great for eating fresh, cooking, canning and freezing. 58 days.

Maxibel: European gourmet bean. Slender, stringless pods grow 7-7 ½" long and are dark green in color. Can be used as a snap or filet bean. 59 days.

Gina: Early Romano bean. Large yields. Broad, flat pods grow 5-5 ½" long with large beans packed with flavor. Resists Common Bean Mosiac. 55 days. 

Slenderette: Heavy-yielding. Stringless, crisp pods grow 5" long with white beans. Tastes great fresh and freezes well. 53 days.

California Blackeye: High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long producing smooth beans. Resistant to most common bean and pea viruses. 75 days.

Harvester: Hardy variety. Pods grow up to 6” long on upright plants. Resists Common Bean Mosiac Virus, Bean Rust Virus and root rot. 53 days.

Strike: Easy to harvest. Pods grow 5 ½” long and are close together. 53 days.

Stringless Green Pod: Early variety. Stringless, curved pods grow 5-6” long. 50 days.

Tendergreen: High-yielding. Loves warm climates. Pods grow 6” long. 58 days. 

Topcrop: High-yielding. Stringless pods grow 6” long. Resists Bean Mosiac Virus and Bean Pod Mottle Virus. All American Selections Winner. 54 days. 

Purple Bush Beans

Dwarf Velour

Amethyst: Thin, straight pods grow 5-5 ½" long and are burgundy in color. Tasty raw or cooked. Turn green after cooking. 56 days.

Royal Burgundy: Pods grow to 5" and are dark burgundy in color. Turn green after cooking. 55 days.

Dwarf Velour French Bean: Heavy-yielding over extended season. Stringless, long, slender pods grow 5-6" long and are royal purple in color. Gourmet beans are succulent and packed with flavor. 55 days. 

Yellow Bush Beans

Rocdor Bush Bean

Imperial Golden Wax: High-yielding. Stringless, bright-yellow pods that grow 4-5" long with a buttery taste. Plants reach 16-18" high. Great for small or large gardens. 50 days.

    

Rocdor: Early variety. Straight, long pods grow to 6 ½" and are deep yellow when mature. 52 days.

Carson: High-yielding. Yellow pods grow 5 ½" long. Plants are vigorous. Good disease resistance. 52 days.

Soleil: High-yielding. Pods are straight and thin and grow to 4”. Plants are compact at 2’ high and 1’ wide when mature. Great flavor with no aftertaste. 60 days.

Capitano: High-yielding gourmet Romano bean. Flat pods grow 6" long and are golden-yellow in color. Beans grow uniformly with a velvety texture. 60 days.   

Goldcrop: Early variety. Stringless, straight pods grow 5-7” long and are wax colored. Adapts well. Easy to harvest beans grow near tops of plants. 55 days. 

Top Notch Golden Wax: Early variety. Straight, stringless pods are slightly flat and grow on 15-18” tall plants. 50-55 days.

Green Pole Beans

Blue Lake Pole Bean

Fortex: Extended harvest. Stringless, firm pods grow to 11" long. Can be used as a filet bean at 7". 60 days.

Northeaster: Early variety. Sweet, rich pods grow 8" long and 1" wide. Pods are flat, tender and stringless. 56 days.

Garden of Eden: Italian-style heirloom variety. Flat, broad pods grow 6" long and are medium-green in color. Sweet and tender. 65 days.

Kentucky Wonder: High-yields. Straight, smooth pods grow 8-9" long. Vigorous grower. Resists rust. 67 days.

Blue Lake: High-Yields. Straight, stringless pods grow 6" long. Tender and full-bodied. Cans well. 63 days.

Rattlesnake: Productive. Stringless, tender pods grow 7" long and are flat. Green pods are streaked with purple. 73 days. 

Gita: (yard long) Stringless, rich, sweet pods grow 16-20" long. Great for stir-fries and Asian cuisine. Produces smaller yields in cooler areas. 78 days.

Orient Wonder: (yard long) Crisp, tender pods grow 15-18" long. Widely adaptable. Great in stir-fries and Asian cuisine. 85 days.

Smeraldo: High-yielding flat bean. Long, straight pods grow 8-10" long on 4-6' tall x 2' wide plants. Packs lots of flavor. 55 days.

Mountaineer White Half Runner: (Also known as Old Dutch Half Runner) Great-yields. Slender, tender pods are rich in flavor. 57 days.

Algarve French Climbing: High-yielding, early harvest. Stringless, uniform, flat-like pods grow 10" long on 6-7' vines. This French gourmet climbing bean is resistant to Bean Mosiac Virus. 52 days. 

Kentucky Blue: High-yielding. Succulent, tender pods grow 9" long on 5-8' vines. Light-stringed pods taste like a cross between Kentucky Wonder and Blue Lake beans. 58 days. 

Tenderstar: New variety. Combination French and runner bean. Stringless, meaty pods grow 7" long and are silky smooth. Vines grow 10'+ tall. Pods resemble French beans while vines resemble runners. 

Cobra: High-yielding over extended season. Stringless, smooth pods grow 7" long with a sweet, tender flavor on 5-6' tall vines. 80 days.

Moonlight Runner: High-yielding, self-pollinating runner bean. Sweet, smooth and tender pods grow 10" long on 10' vines. 80 days.

Kwintus: (formerly known as Early Riser) European variety. Flat, stringless and succulent pods grow 10" long on 5-8' vines. Italian flavor. 43 days. 

Scarlet Runner: Vines grow 10’ long with scarlet flowers. Can be eaten as snap beans when young or shell beans when mature. 90 days. 

Yellow Pole Beans

Marvel of Venice: Heirloom/early variety. Flavorful pods grow 8-9" long and 3/4" wide. Vines grow vigorously. 54 days. 

Purple Pole Beans

Trionfo Violetto

Red Noodle: (yard long) Burgundy beans grow 16-20" long in clusters. Sweeter flavor than “Gita” yard longs. Great for stir-fries and Asian cuisine. 85 days.

Purple Pod: Stringless, tender pods grow 6-7" long. Deep purple when raw; turns green after cooking. 67 days.

Trionfo Violetto: Heavy-producing Italian heirloom. Succulent pods grow 6" long with a diameter of a drinking straw. Pods grow from summer till early fall in most climates. 75 days.

Fresh Shell Beans

62X Dwarf Horticultural Taylor Strain: Early variety. Pods grow to 5 ½-6” with broad, oval beans. Beans are white-ish in color with red specks. 68 days.

Tongue of Fire: Italian variety. Good fresh, frozen or dried. Easy to shell pods produce 8-10 beans each. 76 days.

Borlotto Solista: Vigorous-yielding Italian bean. Pods grow 9" long and produce meaty, cream-colored beans with maroon stripes and streaks. Kidney-shaped. Hard shelled. 85-95 days. 

Black Valentine: Heirloom variety. Bush bean. Pods grow 6” long and can be eaten fresh when young or shelled when mature. Produces all black beans. 70 days. 

Lima Beans

Fordhook Lima Bean

Fordhook 242: Prolific grower/bush bean. Heat and drought tolerant. Pods contain 3-5 beans each. 75 days.

Baby Thorogreen: Early maturing. Beans grow in clusters on dwarf plants. Beans are plump and great for canning and drying. Grows well in the north. 67 days.

Eastland: Bush/early variety. High yields over extended season. Semi-flat, uniform pods grow 3-4" long and produce succulent, flavorful beans. 68 days. 

Dixie Butterpea: Bush variety. Huge yields. Beans are succulent and rich growing nearly-round and white in color. Meaty taste. Resists Downy Mildew. 75 days. 

Henderson: Bush variety. Large pods produce 3-4 beans each. Cans and freezes well. 67 days. 

Soy Beans

Black Jet: High yields/prolific grower. Beans are jet black and packed with flavor. Plants grow 2’ high. Easy to grow. 104 days.

Envy: Low-yields. Early variety. Great for short seasons. Beans are bright-green and can be used fresh or dried or for edamame. Plants grow upright to 2’ tall. 75 days.

Tohya: Early variety. Green pods are plump and average 3 beans per pod. Beans have a  firm texture and buttery flavor. Comparable to “Butterbeans”. Plants are compact and grow to about 2’ tall. 78 days.

Butterbeans: High-yielding. Prolific grower. Pods produce 3 large beans on average. Beans are sweet and buttery to taste. Easy to shell. Plants grow 2-2 ½’ tall. A favorite among soybeans. 90 days. 

BeSweet 292: Bush variety. Edamame. Pods grow 2-3 beans each. High in protein. 85 days.

Fava Beans

Windsor: Old English variety. Pods grow 5-6” long and produce 3-5 large beans 1” in size. Grows well under cool, mild conditions. 75 days.

Broad Windsor: Pods grow 7” long and produce 5-6 large, flat beans each. Eat fresh pods when young or as shell beans when mature. Unique flavor. 120-150 days. 

Other Shell Beans

Calypso: Half black, half white beans. Double in sized when boiled. Great for soups and baking. Meaty beans have mild flavor. 90 days.

Dry Shell Beans

Yin Yang

Kenearly Yellow Eye: Easy harvest - best for baking. Compares to Maine Yellow ye. Great for baked beans, soups, stews and creamy broth. Beans are uniform and white with light-brown eyes. 90 days.

Vermont Cranberry: Northern New England Variety. Pods grow 6” on upright plants. Medium-sized beans are oval in shape, plump and red and pink striped. Mild taste is great for baking or in soups and stews. Can be shelled fresh or dried. 75 days fresh, 98 days dry. 

European Soldier: White kidney-bean. Beans are medium-sized and great for baking and stews. 95 days. 

Light Red Kidney: Early variety. Light-red kidney bean good for salads, chili and stew. 95 days.

Midnight Black Turtle Soup: Small black beans grow on tall, upright bushes. Beans grow to about the size of a pea. A favorite in Latin cooking. Great for refrying and in soups and stews. 104 days. 

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Types and Varieties of Beans

Gibby's Garden

Types of Beans

Bush Beans: Plants are compact and do not need support unless otherwise stated. Bush beans typically produce their crop at once.

Pole Beans: Vining plants that grow best on trellises or fences. They produce beans over an extended period of time. 

Snap Beans: Snap beans can be both bush or pole varieties and are referred to as “stringless.”

Dry Beans: Beans made for shelling after plants have lost most leaves & have been allowed to dry.

Shell Beans: Beans made for shelling when fresh. Typically boiled or steamed before eating.

Colors: Green, yellow, purple

Varieties of Beans

Green Bush Beans

Advantage Bush Bean

Roma II: High-yields. Broad pods keep fresh taste and bright green color after processing. Plants grow upright. 59 days.

Early Contender: Early variety. Stringless pods grow 6-8" long and are tender. Cans and freezes well. Tolerates Mosiac Virus, heat and greasy pod. 49 days.

Blue Lake 274: High-yields produce all at once. Smooth pods grow 6-6 ½" long. Texture is firm and color is deep. 58 days.

Trofeo: High-yielding filet bean. Crisp, tender pods grow long and provide a buttery flavor. Resists Halo Blight, Anthracnose and bean Mosiac Virus. 58 days.

Jade: Long harvest period. Tender, stringless, straight pods grow 6 ½" long. Provides a sweet taste. Keeps bright green color when frozen. Easily adaptable. 60 days.

Derby: High-yields over long season. Tender, stringless pods grow to 7" long. Easy harvest. Good resistance to bean Mosiac Virus. 57 days.

Provider: Early variety. Adapts easily. Grows well in cool soil. 50 days.

Fresh Pick: High-yielding over extended period. Plants grow large; fewer needed for large crop. 53 days.

Foremost: High-yields. Medium-sized plants can be hand or machine harvested. 53 days.

E-Z Pick: Beans mature all at once for an easy harvest. Plants are sturdy and upright. 55 days.

Venture: Extra-early variety. Extended harvest. Pods are crisp and tender and grow to 5”.  Great for northern gardens; tolerates cool soil. 48 days.

Kentucky Wonder 125: Early variety. High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long. Tender beans compare to the pole variety. No staking needed. 45 days. 

Tenderette: High-yielding over extended season. Stringless, straight pods grow 5” long. Flavorful. Cans and freezes well. 58 days.

Festina: Dark green pods are packed with vitamins. Pods grow 6” long. Provides crisp, tender-sweet taste. Great for hot climates. 56 days.

Nash: Early variety. High-yielding. Straight pods grow 5 3/4” long and are plump and succulent. Great for warm climates. 54 days.

Advantage: High-yielding with slow seed development. Extended harvest. Long, slender pods grow 6 ½" long and are moist and tender. Full of flavor and great for eating fresh, cooking, canning and freezing. 58 days.

Maxibel: European gourmet bean. Slender, stringless pods grow 7-7 ½" long and are dark green in color. Can be used as a snap or filet bean. 59 days.

Gina: Early Romano bean. Large yields. Broad, flat pods grow 5-5 ½" long with large beans packed with flavor. Resists Common Bean Mosiac. 55 days. 

Slenderette: Heavy-yielding. Stringless, crisp pods grow 5" long with white beans. Tastes great fresh and freezes well. 53 days.

California Blackeye: High-yielding. Pods grow 7-8” long producing smooth beans. Resistant to most common bean and pea viruses. 75 days.

Harvester: Hardy variety. Pods grow up to 6” long on upright plants. Resists Common Bean Mosiac Virus, Bean Rust Virus and root rot. 53 days.

Strike: Easy to harvest. Pods grow 5 ½” long and are close together. 53 days.

Stringless Green Pod: Early variety. Stringless, curved pods grow 5-6” long. 50 days.

Tendergreen: High-yielding. Loves warm climates. Pods grow 6” long. 58 days. 

Topcrop: High-yielding. Stringless pods grow 6” long. Resists Bean Mosiac Virus and Bean Pod Mottle Virus. All American Selections Winner. 54 days. 

Purple Bush Beans

Dwarf Velour

Amethyst: Thin, straight pods grow 5-5 ½" long and are burgundy in color. Tasty raw or cooked. Turn green after cooking. 56 days.

Royal Burgundy: Pods grow to 5" and are dark burgundy in color. Turn green after cooking. 55 days.

Dwarf Velour French Bean: Heavy-yielding over extended season. Stringless, long, slender pods grow 5-6" long and are royal purple in color. Gourmet beans are succulent and packed with flavor. 55 days. 

Yellow Bush Beans

Rocdor Bush Bean

Imperial Golden Wax: High-yielding. Stringless, bright-yellow pods that grow 4-5" long with a buttery taste. Plants reach 16-18" high. Great for small or large gardens. 50 days.

    

Rocdor: Early variety. Straight, long pods grow to 6 ½" and are deep yellow when mature. 52 days.

Carson: High-yielding. Yellow pods grow 5 ½" long. Plants are vigorous. Good disease resistance. 52 days.

Soleil: High-yielding. Pods are straight and thin and grow to 4”. Plants are compact at 2’ high and 1’ wide when mature. Great flavor with no aftertaste. 60 days.

Capitano: High-yielding gourmet Romano bean. Flat pods grow 6" long and are golden-yellow in color. Beans grow uniformly with a velvety texture. 60 days.   

Goldcrop: Early variety. Stringless, straight pods grow 5-7” long and are wax colored. Adapts well. Easy to harvest beans grow near tops of plants. 55 days. 

Top Notch Golden Wax: Early variety. Straight, stringless pods are slightly flat and grow on 15-18” tall plants. 50-55 days.

Green Pole Beans

Blue Lake Pole Bean

Fortex: Extended harvest. Stringless, firm pods grow to 11" long. Can be used as a filet bean at 7". 60 days.

Northeaster: Early variety. Sweet, rich pods grow 8" long and 1" wide. Pods are flat, tender and stringless. 56 days.

Garden of Eden: Italian-style heirloom variety. Flat, broad pods grow 6" long and are medium-green in color. Sweet and tender. 65 days.

Kentucky Wonder: High-yields. Straight, smooth pods grow 8-9" long. Vigorous grower. Resists rust. 67 days.

Blue Lake: High-Yields. Straight, stringless pods grow 6" long. Tender and full-bodied. Cans well. 63 days.

Rattlesnake: Productive. Stringless, tender pods grow 7" long and are flat. Green pods are streaked with purple. 73 days. 

Gita: (yard long) Stringless, rich, sweet pods grow 16-20" long. Great for stir-fries and Asian cuisine. Produces smaller yields in cooler areas. 78 days.

Orient Wonder: (yard long) Crisp, tender pods grow 15-18" long. Widely adaptable. Great in stir-fries and Asian cuisine. 85 days.

Smeraldo: High-yielding flat bean. Long, straight pods grow 8-10" long on 4-6' tall x 2' wide plants. Packs lots of flavor. 55 days.

Mountaineer White Half Runner: (Also known as Old Dutch Half Runner) Great-yields. Slender, tender pods are rich in flavor. 57 days.

Algarve French Climbing: High-yielding, early harvest. Stringless, uniform, flat-like pods grow 10" long on 6-7' vines. This French gourmet climbing bean is resistant to Bean Mosiac Virus. 52 days. 

Kentucky Blue: High-yielding. Succulent, tender pods grow 9" long on 5-8' vines. Light-stringed pods taste like a cross between Kentucky Wonder and Blue Lake beans. 58 days. 

Kwintus: (formerly known as Early Riser) European variety. Flat, stringless and succulent pods grow 10" long on 5-8' vines. Italian flavor. 43 days. 

Yellow Pole Beans

Marvel of Venice: Heirloom/early variety. Flavorful pods grow 8-9" long and 3/4" wide. Vines grow vigorously. 54 days. 

Purple Pole Beans

Trionfo Violetto

Purple Pod: Stringless, tender pods grow 6-7" long. Deep purple when raw; turns green after cooking. 67 days.

Trionfo Violetto: Heavy-producing Italian heirloom. Succulent pods grow 6" long with a diameter of a drinking straw. Pods grow from summer till early fall in most climates. 75 days.

Fresh Shell Beans

62X Dwarf Horticultural Taylor Strain: Early variety. Pods grow to 5 ½-6” with broad, oval beans. Beans are white-ish in color with red specks. 68 days.

Tongue of Fire: Italian variety. Good fresh, frozen or dried. Easy to shell pods produce 8-10 beans each. 76 days.

Borlotto Solista: Vigorous-yielding Italian bean. Pods grow 9" long and produce meaty, cream-colored beans with maroon stripes and streaks. Kidney-shaped. Hard shelled. 85-95 days. 

Black Valentine: Heirloom variety. Bush bean. Pods grow 6” long and can be eaten fresh when young or shelled when mature. Produces all black beans. 70 days. 

Lima Beans

Fordhook Lima Bean

Fordhook 242: Prolific grower/bush bean. Heat and drought tolerant. Pods contain 3-5 beans each. 75 days.

Baby Thorogreen: Early maturing. Beans grow in clusters on dwarf plants. Beans are plump and great for canning and drying. Grows well in the north. 67 days.

Eastland: Bush/early variety. High yields over extended season. Semi-flat, uniform pods grow 3-4" long and produce succulent, flavorful beans. 68 days. 

Dixie Butterpea: Bush variety. Huge yields. Beans are succulent and rich growing nearly-round and white in color. Meaty taste. Resists Downy Mildew. 75 days. 

Henderson: Bush variety. Large pods produce 3-4 beans each. Cans and freezes well. 67 days. 

Soy Beans

Black Jet: High yields/prolific grower. Beans are jet black and packed with flavor. Plants grow 2’ high. Easy to grow. 104 days.

Envy: Low-yields. Early variety. Great for short seasons. Beans are bright-green and can be used fresh or dried or for edamame. Plants grow upright to 2’ tall. 75 days.

Tohya: Early variety. Green pods are plump and average 3 beans per pod. Beans have a  firm texture and buttery flavor. Comparable to “Butterbeans”. Plants are compact and grow to about 2’ tall. 78 days.

Butterbeans: High-yielding. Prolific grower. Pods produce 3 large beans on average. Beans are sweet and buttery to taste. Easy to shell. Plants grow 2-2 ½’ tall. A favorite among soybeans. 90 days. 

BeSweet 292: Bush variety. Edamame. Pods grow 2-3 beans each. High in protein. 85 days.

Fava Beans

Windsor: Old English variety. Pods grow 5-6” long and produce 3-5 large beans 1” in size. Grows well under cool, mild conditions. 75 days.

Broad Windsor: Pods grow 7” long and produce 5-6 large, flat beans each. Eat fresh pods when young or as shell beans when mature. Unique flavor. 120-150 days. 

Other Shell Beans

Calypso: Half black, half white beans. Double in sized when boiled. Great for soups and baking. Meaty beans have mild flavor. 90 days.

Dry Shell Beans

Yin Yang

Kenearly Yellow Eye: Easy harvest - best for baking. Compares to Maine Yellow ye. Great for baked beans, soups, stews and creamy broth. Beans are uniform and white with light-brown eyes. 90 days.

Vermont Cranberry: Northern New England Variety. Pods grow 6” on upright plants. Medium-sized beans are oval in shape, plump and red and pink striped. Mild taste is great for baking or in soups and stews. Can be shelled fresh or dried. 75 days fresh, 98 days dry. 

European Soldier: White kidney-bean. Beans are medium-sized and great for baking and stews. 95 days. 

Light Red Kidney: Early variety. Light-red kidney bean good for salads, chili and stew. 95 days.

Midnight Black Turtle Soup: Small black beans grow on tall, upright bushes. Beans grow to about the size of a pea. A favorite in Latin cooking. Great for refrying and in soups and stews. 104 days. 

How to Grow Artichokes in the North

magpie-moon/Flickr

In order to successfully grow artichokes in the north, they must be started from seed indoors or grown from transplants because the growing season simply isn’t long enough to sow seeds directly in the ground. In the north, artichokes are grown as annuals to accommodate the short growing season.

Tip: Some northern gardeners have had success with digging up the artichoke roots and hanging them in mesh bags (onion bags) in a cool, dry, dark place. Come spring they replant the roots, feed and water them, and watch them come back to life and produce a healthy crop.

Guide to Growing Artichokes in the North

Plant Type: Annual (zone 8 & higher), Perennial (up to zone 7)
Genus: Thistle Family
Name: Cynara scolymus

How to Grow Artichokes from Seed

Sow seeds in 4” containers in rich potting soil mixed with either fish emulsion or organic fertilizer containing NPK, Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. Young artichoke seedlings require lots of nutrients to get off to a healthy start. In the north, seeds should be started in February. Water as needed.

Before transplanting seedlings outdoors, it’s important to harden them off. This process encourages artichokes to bud during their first year of growth which is needed when planted as an annual.

How to Harden Off Artichoke Seedlings

When the days begin to warm and seedlings are about 8-10” tall, set them outdoors in a shady area out of the wind for a few hours each day as temperatures permit. Slowly increase the amount of time seedlings are kept outdoors over a 2 week period. When soil and air temperatures have warmed, transplant to the garden.

How to Transplant Artichokes

Whether using home-grown transplants or those bought at the local nursery, it’s important to make sure the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has past before transplanting to the garden. Before transplanting, seedlings should have their first true leaves and sturdy stems. Seedlings should be about 8-10 weeks old. 

Where to Plant: Plant in rich soil mixed with compost. 

Plant Spacing: Plant each artichoke seedling 2-4’apart. 

Fertilization: During the transplanting process, till in compost or a complete organic fertilizer (following instructions on bag) in the spot where the seedlings are to go. Fertilize once a month during the growing season to feed hungry artichoke plants which thrive on nutrient-rich soil.

Watering: Water as needed keeping the soil evenly moist.

How to Harvest Artichokes

Once flowers have formed on the buds and before they open, cleanly slice buds off the plants at their base. 

Pest and Disease Control

Snails, slugs, caterpillars and aphids are pests to watch out for. Hand pick pests and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to drown them. Set out beer traps to kill slugs and snails. 

Varieties of Artichoke

Imperial Star

Imperial Star: High-yielding. Plants produce 6-8 mature buds about 3-4" tall. Produces first season from seed. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. Thornless. Easy to grow from seed. 85 days.

Opera: Early variety. High-yielding. Plants grow to 2 ½ - 3 feet tall and produce 3-4 primary  3-4”  buds and 6-8 secondary 1 ½ - 2 ¾”  buds. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. 100 days. 

Jerusalem Artichoke: Tubers. Potato-like taste and water chestnut-like texture. Can be harvested fall to spring. Stores well. Perennial. 

Stampede (Jerusalem artichoke): High-yielding. Extra early tubers grow to ½ pound in size. Winter hardy. Stores well. Zones 3-8.  

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Varieties of Artichoke

There are  2 main varieties of artichokes to choose from: Imperial Start and Opera. Depending on the region in which you live, artichokes are either perennial or annual. In milder climates, such a those up to zone 7, artichokes can be grown as perennials. In zones 8 and higher or where winters are harsh, artichokes are grown as annuals.

Imperial Star Artichoke

Imperial Star: High-yielding. Plants produce 6-8 mature buds about 3-4" tall. Produces first season from seed. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. Thornless. Easy to grow from seed. 85 days.

Opera: Early variety. High-yielding. Plants grow to 2 ½ - 3 feet tall and produce 3-4 primary  3-4" buds and 6-8 secondary 1 ½ - 2 3/4" buds. Perennial in zone 7, annual in all other zones. 100 days.

Jerusalem Artichoke: Tubers. Potato-like taste and water chestnut-like texture. Can be harvested fall to spring. Stores well. Perennial.

Stampede (Jerusalem artichoke): High-yielding. Extra early tubers grow to ½ pound in size. Winter hardy. Stores well. Zones 3-8.

How to Grow Asparagus in the North

bongo vongo/Flickr

Asparagus grows great in areas with cold climates and those on the drier side where the crop can over winter without getting saturated making this a great vegetable to grow in the north. Wherever you choose to put your asparagus bed, make sure it’s in a spot that can be dedicated to growing this vegetable for years to come as spears reemerge for up to 15 to 20 years.

In this guide you’ll find how to grow asparagus from crowns and seed, how to prepare and maintain the bed, growing, weeding, watering and mulching instructions, when and how to harvest, how to control disease and pest infestations and types and varieties of asparagus.

Plant Type: Perennial
Genus: Lily Family
Name: Asparagus Officinalis

Guide to Growing Asparagus

How to Grow Asparagus from Crowns

Where to Plant: Full sun in light, well-drained soil to prevent root rot.

Preparing the Bed: Remove all roots and other debris from the soil. Add 1-2 inches of year-old manure and finished compost, tilling it well into the soil. This will provide  crowns with plenty of nutrients to get off to a healthy start.

Planting Instructions: Dig trenches 12 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Place each crown in the trenches so they are 1.5-2 feet apart. Cover each crown with 2-3 inches of soil. Water. Wait 2 weeks and add another layer of soil, 1-2 inches deep. Repeat as soil settles and forms a slight bump over crowns. The bed will defer in size depending on how many crowns are planted.

Mulching: Add a layer of mulch to the asparagus bed after planting. Mulch should be 2-4 inches deep to prevent weeds from growing and to retain moisture. 

Weeding: Pull all weeds because they will steal nutrients and water, especially from young asparagus shoots. 

Watering: It’s critical to water asparagus during the first 2 years after planting when plants are still maturing. Water on an as needed basis keeping the moist but not saturated. Water in early mornings to help prevent rust. 

Over-Wintering Instructions: Do not cut back asparagus stalks. Lightly mulch the bed with straw or preferred mulch to offer over-wintering protection. In the spring, remove the ferns. 

Starting Asparagus from Seed

When: Start seeds indoors from February to March.

Sowing Instructions: Soak asparagus seeds in water for a few hours before sowing. Using paper pots, fill ¾ of the way with light potting soil mixed with compost. Sow 1 seed per pot. Keep pots in a warm room, around 60°F. When sprouts appear, move pots to a location filled with natural light but keep out of direct sunlight. Once all danger of frost is gone, begin hardening off asparagus seedlings. Follow above planting instructions when seedlings are ready to be moved to the bed.

How to Harvest Asparagus

Do not harvest for the first 2 years after planting unless otherwise noted on the variety planted. During this time, asparagus needs to establish its root system in order for productive yields to grow for years to come. 

During the 3rd year, harvest only during a 4 week period. During the 4th year, extend the harvest over 8 weeks. Begin harvest in early summer, harvesting about every 3 days. Using a sharp knife, cleanly slice spears just below the ground’s surface. Harvest while spears are at desired diameter, are about 8 inches tall and have tight heads. Spears that have over-matured become tough and woody. 

Disease and Pest Control

Rust is a common disease effecting some varieties of asparagus. Many newer hybrid varieties such as Jersey Night Hybrid, Jersey Giant and Martha Washington are bred to resist rust. Opt for a resistant variety before planting. If rust does occur, red and brown spots will be noticeable on the leaves and stems of plants.

To combat this problem, remove affected stocks to keep from spreading, and burn or bag them to toss out with the trash. Remove all dead plant debris from the bed. Follow the correct growing instructions such as planting in well-drained soil, spacing guidelines and watering in early mornings to further prevent rust. 

Fusarium wilt is another disease prone to showing up in asparagus beds. If plants yellow or brown and become wilted or die, Fusarium wilt is most likely present. Signs that Fusarium wilt is present include reddish-brown lesions on stems and rotting crowns. This disease weakens plants over time, slowly killing them off. 

To prevent Fusarium wilt, do not plant a new bed where an old one existed for at least five years and opt for a wilt resistant variety. (Jersey Giant is both rust and Fusarium wilt resistant). Do not over harvest which will weaken the plants. Water, weed and fertilize as necessary. 

Prevent root rot by planting in well-drained soil, preferably in raised beds. Make sure not to saturate the bed when watering. If heavy frost is an issue, cover plants with straw mulch or newspaper as a layer of protection. The most common sign of damage as a result of frost are brown, withered stalks. 

Types of Asparagus 

bangli 1/Flickr

Green: Green asparagus is the most common type seen in produce sections. It is less fibrous than purple varieties and slightly thinner. They get their green color through the photosynthesis process.

SheriW/Flickr

Purple: Purple asparagus is sweeter and slightly thicker than green and white varieties. It gets its color from the high levels of anthocyanins in the plant which are high in antioxidants. 

Sunfox/Flickr

White: White asparagus is very similar to green varieties in taste, texture and size. It gets its white color from growing in the dark where it cannot photosynthesize. White varieties are typically more expensive to buy than other types because of its limited supply. 

Varieties of Asparagus to Grow

Asparagus produce both male and female plants, making it a monoecious vegetable. Male plants produce higher yields, but both male and female plants will produce tender stalks.

Jersey Knight Asparagus Hybrid 

Jersey Knight

Produces high-yields from 99.5% all male plants. Spears grow to 5/8 inches in diameter with bright green stalks and dark purple tops and bracts. Plants grow 24 inches to 5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Resists Crown Rot and Rust. Disease Resistant. Harvest in early summer.

Purple Passion Asparagus

Purple Passion

Produces medium yields. Grows sweet, tender, purple spears. Spears grow to .5 inches in diameter and 3-5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Disease resistant. Harvest from early to mid summer. 

Jersey Supreme Hybrid Asparagus

Jersey Supreme

Produces high yields of 10 pound crops each year from all male plants. Grows mid-size succulent spears which are ready for harvest the second year after planting. Zones 2-9. Adapts easily to stress, drought and cold. 

Jersey Giant Hybrid 

Produces high yields of male plants only. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall and are very tasty. Resists rust. Ready to harvest after 3 years. 

Mary Washington Asparagus

Spears are green with purple tips. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall. Ready for harvest after 3 years.

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List of Asparagus Varieties and Their Types

While there are only 3 types of asparagus, green, purple and white, there are a handful of varieties to choose from. Whichever variety is grown will come back time and time again for up to 15 years or more, so when choosing a variety, make sure it's one you love.

Types of Asparagus 

bangli 1/Flickr

Green: Green asparagus is the most common type seen in produce sections. It is less fibrous than purple varieties and slightly thinner. They get their green color through the photosynthesis process.

SheriW/Flickr

Purple: Purple asparagus is sweeter and slightly thicker than green and white varieties. It gets its color from the high levels of anthocyanins in the plant which are high in antioxidants. 

Sunfox/Flickr

White: White asparagus is very similar to green varieties in taste, texture and size. It gets its white color from growing in the dark where it cannot photosynthesize. White varieties are typically more expensive to buy than other types because of its limited supply. 

Varieties of Asparagus 

Asparagus produce both male and female plants, making it a monoecious vegetable. Male plants produce higher yields, but both male and female plants will produce tender stalks.

Jersey Knight Asparagus

Jersey Knight

Produces high-yields from 99.5% all male plants. Spears grow to 5/8 inches in diameter with bright green stalks and dark purple tops and bracts. Plants grow 24 inches to 5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Resists Crown Rot and Rust. Disease Resistant. Harvest in early summer.

Purple Passion Asparagus

Purple Passion

Produces medium yields. Grows sweet, tender, purple spears. Spears grow to .5 inches in diameter and 3-5 feet tall. Zones 2-8. Disease resistant. Harvest from early to mid summer. 

Jersey Supreme Hybrid Asparagus

Jersey Supreme

Produces high yields of 10 pound crops each year from all male plants. Grows mid-size succulent spears which are ready for harvest the second year after planting. Zones 2-9. Adapts easily to stress, drought and cold. 

Jersey Giant Hybrid

Produces high yields of male plants only. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall and are very tasty. Resists rust. Ready to harvest after 3 years. 

Mary Washington Asparagus

Spears are green with purple tips. Plants grow up to 12 inches tall. Ready for harvest after 3 years.

January Thaw

We're currently experiencing a January thaw here in Maine and other parts of the north. Besides providing a warm winter break, the sunny, mild weather is putting me in the mood to garden. Since it's only January, I can't start my seeds yet or head outdoors to prepare my gardens until spring. In the meantime, I'll be making a list of which vegetables to plant in 2013 and how many.

I'll be planting my usual crop of beans, peas, corn and tomatoes - many of which will be eaten fresh and the rest frozen. This year I'm going to try planting some new vegetables, one's I've never grown before, such as eggplant and turnips.

I've already been scouring online seed catalogs checking out the new varieties for 2013 and making a mental list of which seeds I want to order to be written down later. I've also been thinking ahead about rotating my crops and thinking about which vegetables to grow where.

In other news, a number of online gardening catalogs have discontinued their affiliate marketing relationship with Google, so I'll be begrudgingly removing all banners and links from Gibby's Garden over the next few weeks. The companies I speak of include Gurney's (one of my favorites), Breck's and a few others. Please be patient as I do this as these links will no longer work from this site and many others similar to mine.

What will you be doing in preparation for this year's vegetable garden?

Guide to Choosing Seeds for the Organic Vegetable Garden

Gibby's Garden

With so many varieties of vegetables to choose from, it can be hard to narrow down which vegetable seeds to choose and which seed company to buy them from. A few things to consider when choosing vegetable seeds is budget, USDA zone and how much space is available in the garden.

Tips for Choosing Vegetable Seeds and Varieties

Choosing Vegetable Seeds for the Northern Garden

3 questions to ask yourself before choosing which vegetable seeds to plant and tips to help make deciding which brand(s) of seeds to buy easier.

Read full article . . . 

Choosing Which Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

Tips on choosing which types of vegetables and their varieties to plant in your garden. Follow this guide to make choosing the best vegetables to plant for you and your family simple and fun.

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How Many Vegetables to Plant per Person

Figuring out how many vegetables to plant per person for an entire household can seem a little overwhelming. By answering a few questions and consulting a few free online charts, this process is a lot easier. Deciding how much of which vegetables to plant makes choosing vegetable varieties easier because you can choose from high or low yielding plants depending on the needs of your household.

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Vegetable Seeds vs. Transplants: The Benefits of Each

Should you choose vegetable seeds, transplants or both? In the north, it’s best to use a mix of both and here’s why.

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Buy Vegetable Seeds in Fall to Save Money

Buying your vegetable seeds in the fall and winter from online seed companies and catalogs can net you some pretty big savings. Many companies offer discounts and other incentives that are worth taking advantage of.

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How to Make Your Own Seed Tapes

We all know how much of a pain it can be to plant those tiny seeds like radishes and carrots. To save on time, follow this guide to make your own seed tapes for next to nothing.

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Vegetable Garden Maintenance and Protection Guide

Gibby's Garden

Maintaining your vegetable garden and offering it a little protection from the elements makes a big difference in how healthy and productive it grows. Learn tips and tricks from cleaning your garden and tools to maintaining and protecting your plants.

Garden Maintenance and Protection Guides

Spring Cleaning the Vegetable Garden

Once the snow melts and ground thaws here in the north, it’s time to head outside and clean and prepare the vegetable garden for the next growing season. Here are some tips to help guide you through the process.

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How to Clean Garden Tools

Clean garden tools are more efficient and last longer. Learn how to clean your garden tools, sharpen them yourself and which supplies are needed to get the job done.

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3 Steps to Protect the Garden from Heavy Rain

When heavy rains are forecast, head outdoors and offer your vegetable garden some protection. Here’s how.

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Garden Cleanup after a Heavy Rain

Tips on how to cleanup the garden after a heavy rainstorm. Keep an eye out for damaged plants and those that need to be supported.

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Hurricane Protection: Keep Your Garden Safe

When a hurricane is on its way, head out to the garden and perform a few tasks to help protect it. These tips are mainly for the north where hurricanes are weaker and few and far between. 

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Easy Green Beans w/Bacon Recipe



Image: Gnawme/Flickr

Looking for a tasty side dish to make? Then try this easy green beans with bacon recipe. Using 6 ingredients, this recipe is quick and simple to make.

Green Beans with Bacon Recipe

Ingredients

1 Pound Green Beans Frozen or Fresh
6 Slices Crispy Bacon, Crumbled
3 Tablespoons Water
2 Tablespoons Butter
½ Teaspoon Salt
½ Teaspoon Chicken Bouillon Granules

Directions

1. Combine all ingredients except bacon
2. Cook green beans until tender
3. Sprinkle with bacon

Additional Recipes

Zucchini Pickle Recipe
How to Cook Acorns
Hungarian Green Bean Soup
Ground Beef and Vegetable Soup
Vegetable Terriyaki Wraps
Garden Vegetable Fried Rice
Baked Apples Recipe
Pumpkin Pecan Butter Recipe
How to Fry Pumpkin Seeds
Popcorn Ball Recipe
Make Your Own Pumpkin Pie Filling Recipe

What Were You Thankful for This Gardening Season?

With Thanksgiving only a few days away I thought I’d get into the swing of things by talking about what I’m most thankful for from my garden this year - after all this is a gardening blog and I want to stay on topic. So, without further ado, here are the 3 things that I’m most thankful for now that this gardening season has come to a close.

Number 1: My Garden’s Bounty

After all the hours of work and sweat I put into my organic vegetable garden planning, planting and weeding, I was rewarded with a bountiful harvest. I’m thankful for the bags of homegrown organic vegetables in my freezer, some of which my family and I will be enjoying this Thanksgiving.

Number 2: Habitat for Little Critters

I noticed lots of what I call little critters in my vegetable gardens this year - mainly toads and snakes. I’m thankful for the habitat my plants and mulch provided for the “good” critters that called my gardens home this summer. I’m thankful because toads and snakes help keep the bug population down naturally while they stay sheltered and well fed.

Number 3: Exercise and Relaxation

Believe it or not, I’m thankful for all the work it took to keep my greatly expanded vegetable gardens growing healthy and strong. Not only did I get a great workout while keeping my garden tended, I worked off lots of stress as well, providing myself with great relaxation later on. I enjoyed and am thankful for the peace and quiet my garden provided me.

What are you thankful for from your garden this year?

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Gardening Definitions You Should Know

Image: freedigitalphotos.net

When it comes to gardening, there are lots of definitions that you should know. Why? Knowing these definitions makes it easier to understand growing guides, plant descriptions, the backs of seed packets etc. Knowing the right terminology also enables you to become a better gardener.

List of Gardening Definitions

Blight: A plant disease(s) that causes the plant to wilt or die off

Bolt: When plants suddenly produce flowers or seeds prematurely

Companion Crop: Vegetables planted next to one another to benefit and assist each other

Cross-Pollination: When pollen is transferred from the flower of one plant to a flower of a different plant

Floating Row Cover: A protective covering used to protect plants from cold, wind and insects

Prolific Grower: Producing a large quantity of fruit or vegetables

Self-Pollination: When plants have both a stamen and pistil and can pollinate themselves

Sunscald: Damage or death of a plant caused by the sun in summer and sun and low temperatures in winter

Yield: The quantity of fruits and vegetables that are produced from a single plant

P.S. This is a work in progress. I’ll continuously be adding more definitions to the list.

Source: thefreedictionary.com

3 Vegetables to Try in Your Garden Next Year



Image: thebittenword.com/Flickr

Looking to spice up your vegetable garden next year? Well, why not try growing something new? I know I did last year and I’m glad I did. Now is the perfect time to scour the internet in search of a new vegetable or two to try in your own garden. 

To help give you a gentle nudge in the right direction, I’ve put together a list of my must-haves - all of which I grew in my own garden for the first time last year.

3 Must-Have Vegetables to Try Growing

Kohlrabi

Image: Dénes Emőke

Kohlrabi, once a staple in many European vegetable gardens, is quickly becoming more and more popular in the U.S. It’s readily available in most produce sections and has been popping up in more gardens across the country.

Kohlrabi has a crisp, almost sweet taste that is sort of a cross between cabbage and a mild radish. It can be eaten raw or cooked and makes a fresh addition to salads and stir-fry’s. Due to the amount of rain we had last spring, I didn’t get a huge crop of kohlrabi but the plants that survived were tasty enough to make me want to grow kohlrabi again next year.

Here are some must-have early varieties, one of which I’ll be growing myself come spring, and yes, kohlrabi can be grown in the north.


Early White Vienna - 55 Days
Eder - 38 Days
Korridor - 42 Days
Winner - 45 Days
Kolibri - 45 Days

Popcorn

Image: User:Royalbroil/CC-BY-SA-2.5

Lots of people love popcorn and knowing that it came from your own garden makes it much more enjoyable. There are a handful of varieties of popcorn to choose from and many double as ornamental corn so its like getting a 2 for 1 deal when you grow it in your own garden.

I myself grew Japanese Hull-Less popcorn in my garden last year. I like this variety because it takes about 83 days to mature and since I live in the north, an early variety works best for me. The trick to growing popcorn is to let the kernels dry right on the stalks even after they’ve turned brown.

Robust - 112 Days

Red Beauty - 120 Days

Neon Pink - 110 Days

Emerald Green - 110 Days

Shades of Blue - 110 Days

Japanese White Hull-Less - 83 Days

Yard Long Beans

Image: clayirving/Flickr

Yard long beans have a slightly different taste than other varieties of beans. They're a bit milder in flavor, meaning not as sweet. I love them in a stir fry or lightly sautéed in olive oil. What’s fun about growing your own yard long beans is watching them grow. Some beans can grow an inch or two in a single day. If you do decide to try growing yard long beans in your own garden, keep in mind that they are pole beans so they’ll grow best along a fence or trellis.

Yard long beans taste the best when they’re about the thickness of a pencil. In my opinion, they are a must-have and an exciting new vegetable to grow due to their size alone. The three varieties I have listed below can grow from 15 - 20” long.

Orient Wonder - 85 Days

Gita - 78 Days

Red Noodle - 85 Days

Which new vegetables are you going to try in your garden next year? Have any suggestions?

Homeowner’s Guide to Firewood



Image: Berillium/Wikimedia Commons

 Tis’ the season to buy, stack and store firewood. Before you shell out any money to your local firewood dealer, make sure you are getting the best deal on seasoned firewood. Find out how to stack it properly to keep it out of the elements and how to keep your home bug-free when bringing it indoors.

Guide to Buying, Stacking and Storing Firewood

The Best Wood for Firewood is Seasoned

Learn about seasoned firewood and why it makes the best wood to heat your home.

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What is Seasoned Firewood?

Find out exactly what seasoned firewood is and how to tell if that’s what you’re getting.

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What is a Cord of Firewood?

Firewood is commonly measured and sold by the cord in the U.S. and Canada. Find out how much wood is in a cord of firewood to figure out how much you’ll need to buy.

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How to Keep Bugs Out of Firewood

Bugs like to find dry, sheltered places to keep warm for the winter. For many insects, a stack of firewood, especially when covered, makes a great winter home. Learn how to keep bugs out of firewood to keep from bringing them into your home.

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How to Stack Firewood

Stacking firewood the right way has many benefits including keeping firewood dry and easily and safely accessible. Follow this simple guide to learn how to stack firewood.

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How to Build a Firewood Rack Directory

Provides links to different step by step guides on how to build a firewood rack. All plans are free. Pick which type of rack, whether indoor or outdoor, is most suitable to your household.

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5 Ways to Scratch the Vegetable Gardening Itch in Fall & Winter



Gibby's Garden

For those of you that have vegetable gardening in your blood, how do you scratch that itch for wanting to get out in the garden when winter hits and the garden‘s under a foot of snow? Read, research, browse and plan your garden during fall and winter - that’s what I do.

Read, Research, Browse and Plan

Read about Anything and Everything Gardening

I love perusing the sale section of the bookstore for books on gardening. Since my passion is organic vegetable gardening, I tend to stick to buying and reading books on this topic which can include planning, planting, growing guides and organic pest control. I also scour the internet during fall and winter reading up on tips and how-to’s to improve my garden next spring.

Here’s a List of Some of my Must-Have Gardening Books

Garden Pest Control: Organic Gardening Basics Volume 7
Compost: Organic Gardening Basics
The Vegetable Gardeners Bible, 2^nd Edition
Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Tips for Vegetable Gardeners
Blue Ribbon Preserves

Research Vegetables, Growing Conditions and More

Fall and winter are great times to get in a little gardening research. Take your time and look up different types of information. Here are a few ideas to get you started on your quest to learn.

Growing Conditions for Specific Vegetables
Vegetable Nutrition
Vegetable Varieties
Time Saving Tips
Frugal Gardening Tips
Space Saving Tips
Monthly Gardening Tips
Pest Control
Container Gardening
Vertical Gardening
Companion Crops
Weed Control

Browse and Shop for Vegetable Seeds and Score a Deal

Before vegetable planting season begins and stores are fully stocked with supplies, browse the internet and seed catalogs to find sales and the best deals on seeds and transplants. (Winter is my favorite time do this.)

Start Planning your Vegetable Garden Now

Make a list of the vegetables you want to plant and group them together with those that have similar growing conditions. I like to do this after I’ve bought my seeds or done my research. Figure out which plants grow the tallest and shortest and which ones go in the middle.

Draw a rough diagram of your garden marking individual rows, mounds, trenches or trellises. Write in where each vegetable is to go. Make sure the veggies you plant will receive enough sunlight in their allotted spots and the soil conditions are right.

You can also make a list of gardening supplies and tools you’ll need to pick up. If you haven’t already bought your seeds, make a list of which ones you want making sure to jot down the variety that grows best in your area.

Here are a few Guides to Help Plan your Vegetable Garden

Planning a Vegetable Garden
Choosing Vegetable Seeds
Soil Preparation: Getting Those Gardens Ready
3 Tips for Figuring Out Where to Plant Vegetables
Choosing Which Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden
How Many Vegetables to Plant per Person
Average Frost Dates for the North (2012 – 2013)

What type of gardening information do you read, research or write about? Have any suggestions?